Sailing 101 - The First Day without the motor

[daydreamerbob]

Just to get some of the answers to your questions out there - I am still married, i still own the boat, the boat has no name.

I cut the broken spreader and the not broken spreader to equal lengths and redrilled. The shrouds are really tight now. Forestay still loose and turnbuckle not visible. Recrimped Topping Lift - regret not getting boomkicker.

Went for a short sail today - getting in and out of slip is easier. Tried to start the motor with kill switch dangling - idiot.

Sailed only with the Main - Genny can wait. It was pretty cool. Instruction book helped some - I think my sail has been modified with white clips to run up the mast groove instea of the rope.

Could not get sail all the way up - about 8 inches short - typical

Topping lift is in the way.

Where does the halyard route to the cockpit - in Halyards run aft?

what is purpose of outhaul vs main sheet traveler

what is the best way to coordinate adjustments to halyard, topping lift, mainsheet, during a maneuver?

Still out in the lke with fenders hnging in the water - idiot

[pokerrick1]

Bob;

Regarding the kill switch - -- -

you sould be able to start the engine and then run the engine without engaging the kill switch - - - but if you do insert the kill switch before starting the engine, then disengaging the kill switch will kill the engine - - - at least that's the way all the M's around me work (and there are several of them).

Are you saying that your engine will not start without first engaging the kill switch? You sure? How does everyone else's work????

Rick

[pxk3]

The outhaul stretches out the bottom edge of the mail sail (foot of the sail) which is inserted into the boom. The mainsheet traveler controls the main sail trim (and the boom).

We all forget to pull in the fenders sometimes. [/code]

[Trouts Dream]

If you have a properly working kill switch, I wouldn't think you could run the engine without something disengaging the kill switch. If you can start and run the engine without disengaging the kill switch then its not a kill switch.

Heres one to watch for. Shut the engine off without putting it all the way to neutral. Then when its time to start the engine and head in, nothing. No click just dead. Check the battery. Good. Check the kill switch. Disengaged. Check the wiring to the engine. Seems good. Sail in to the dock on genny only. Furl it at the right time to coast up and step off like an expert. Very Good.
Take the cover off the 96 Tohatsu and try to pull start engine. bang elbow on da^n throttle and notice its not in the full neutral position. Priceless.

Its always the little things that seem to get you but by sharing our experiences, hopefully we can learn from each other.

[pokerrick1]

If you can start and run the engine without disengaging the kill switch then its not a kill switch.

I assume you meant "engaging" the kill switch not "disengaging".

I beg to differ, but when I (we) start the engine with the kill switch engaged it does work and the engine dies when the switch is pulled. If we start the engine without the kill switch, it still runs perfectly - - - then we just don't have a kill switch for those times we don't want one. All of ours near me in our marina work this way.

We (in my opinion) have the best of it - - - when we are tolling around in the marina where we don't need a kill switch we don't have to wear it - - - but when we are WOT to Catalina then we have a kill switch - - - but when we want one we DEFINATELY DO have a kill switch! Maybe it's just the way our dealer installed it???

Rick

[puggsy]

Just my 2 cents worth...
The kill switch itself, the one with the little slotted button, should be fixed into the steering console. I take it that what you left dangling was the little plastic slotted key on the curled plastic lanyard that holds the button OUT...allowing the motor to run...I know, I'm being specific. anyone can forget this...But try not to leave it on board when you park and leave the boat...I did and I worried all night that some kids might get on board and actually start the motor with the leg up...as it was...no cooling water...blown up motor...bye bye 10 G.
And ALWAYS disconnect the batteries. so that even if they keep the button out by other means, there is no current to start the motor.
Those white 'clips' are sliders, and for most are a much better system than the boltrope. for cruising sailors, they resist jammimg. boltropes are fine if you are in competition and always racing.
A few years back, I sailedan MB 24 up the coast over two days from Bunbury to Hillarys harbour. The yacht had a mainsail boltrope. When I got into Hillarys, I could not drop the main as the boltrope had become jammed through salt buildup and a strong following wind...SW 30 knots. I know I should have reefed. Crew [ 1] and I were flying around the inner harbour at a great rate of knots ...in big circles...trying to drop that main...
FORGET BOLTROPES.
About YOUR TOPPING LIFT...Leave it connected but loose. It will just hang slack down the side of the mainsail.
About your halyards...If you are fortunate enough to have them leading back to the cockpit, just coil up the excess and place in a convenient spot not in your way for other control lines. I have a single mesh storage bag about 15 x 10 inches fixed to the inside front wall of the cockpit. I will be adding two more...just to place any extra lines.
The OUTHAUL when adjusted tight, remains as such. Should not need ANY ADJUSTMENT WHEN ACTUALLY SAILING.
The main sheet traveller is usually set midships, but when running with the wind, can be set to either hard port or starboard to allow the boom further travel in those directions. Be wary of possible JIBING. A boom at speed can cause a headache.
Hope this all helps...puggsy 06

[pokerrick1]

Puggsy;

You are coorect, of course, that the actual switch is in the console - - - the plastic thingy on the lanyard is just a part. However, my engine (and those Macs around me) (ALL are E-Tecs by the way), can all be started without pulling out and engaging the switch. If you have the key, you can start my boat without the thingy.

Rick

[puggsy]

does your motor have another 'key' in addition to the plastic...thingy...?
Your answer cam back quick so I hope you are still online.

[pokerrick1]

Puggsy;

Yes - - it has a plastic thingy on a lanyard and a separate plastic key.

Rick

[Mistral]

Puggsy,

My E-tec has a plastic "thingemedingy" and a key. First you need to put in the thingemedingy and than insert the key. Turn the key to start. I have not tried to start the engine without the thingemedingy

[Trouts Dream]

My reference to disengaging the kill switch is because the switch fails in the closed position. But I think that just semantics unless you want to get into whether the circuit is open or closed when the engine shuts down.

As for your engines running with or without the kill switch, well I'll be darned. I am curious how that works, but must use the onboard smarts in the engine. Since mines a 1996, I guess its just not smart enough.

[pokerrick1]

That just might be it Trout, mine is a 2006 and those around me are newer engines also, and maybe they are just smarter than we are.

Rick

[c130king]

Just to get some of the answers to your questions out there - I am still married, i still own the boat, the boat has no name.

I went to the lake on a boat with no name...it felt good to get out of the rain. On the lake...they don't remember your name...

Sorry I am in a musical mood this morning.

Forestay still loose and turnbuckle not visible. Recrimped Topping Lift - regret not getting boomkicker.

The turnbuckle is inside the bottom plastsic housing of the furler. I still have not gotten to mine. Not sure how much you can tighten with just the turnbuckle. When I tighthened my shrouds the forestay got nice and snug.

As for the boom kicker. I think the topping lift works just fine. The only time the topping lift becomes a "pain" (and a minor pain IMHO) is when the mast is lowered/raised and the line gets in the way. As Puggsy said, when sailing the topping lift is slack but in place and doesn't need any adjustment.

Sailed only with the Main - Genny can wait. It was pretty cool. Instruction book helped some - I think my sail has been modified with white clips to run up the mast groove instea of the rope.

Could not get sail all the way up - about 8 inches short - typical

Main only is a great way to start. Give yourself plenty of "sea room" and just practice tacking and gybing...once again I recommend you get a Learn to Sail book. They can really help in this area.

The white clips are Sail Slugs...best mod you can get for your sail IMHO. Makes raising and lowering MUCH easier.

And I had the same problem with getting the sail all the way to the top. Make sure your mainsheet is slack and make sure your boom vang is loose when hoisting the main. If they are tight they pull down on the boom and prevent the sail from going all the way up. Been there done that...got the T-Shirt.

Where does the halyard route to the cockpit - in Halyards run aft?

what is purpose of outhaul vs main sheet traveler

My halyards come down the starboard side of the mast and then are routed back to the cockpit on the starboard side of the hatch. This mod, combined with the sail slugs, makes it very easy to raise/lower the main from the cockpit.

My outhaul is permanently tied from the clew of the main about 3-4 inches to the cleat on the end of the boom. Once again, as Puggsy said there is no need for any adjustment at this point...just pull as tight as possible and tie it off. The foot of the main still has the bolt rope in the track on the boom. I have never removed this. When I take the main off the mast, I remove all the slugs from the mast groove, disconnect the gooseneck, and then leave the main in the boom and roll the entire thing up like a big cigarette and store in the cabin.

Main sheet traveller...I recommend leaving in the middle while sailing until you get a little more experience and then you can practice letting it out with the wind for better downwind sail shape or pull it tight to the windward side for upwind sailing and getting the main even flatter. When motoring I pull the traveller off to one side and secure the boom to the nearest stanchion to keep the boom out of the way.

Bottom line for all this. A bad day on the lake is better than a good day just about anywhere else. Everyone was a beginner at some point.

Have fun and keep smiling...

Jim

[Kelly Hanson East]

Just to stir the pot

On Mercs, the kill switch is a 'light switch' on the throttle that has to be up to run, and down kills the engine. I trained my girls to hit the engine switch at age 5, which save my hide a few times. The lanyard is just a mechanical catch which pulls the switch down when you go overboard. I usually dont use the lanyard unless Im by myself (rare) since my crew can shut the engine off now.

On edit - the engine will crank merrily over for as long as your batteries last with the kill switch 'down' it just wont start.

The outhaul should be sheeted as tight as you can in heavier wind to make the sail flat, in very light wind loosen it to make the sail more like a big bag.

Leave the traveller in the middle until next season - good advice above.

Remember Rogers advice - in one season you will learn 90% of sailing, the next 10% takes a lifetime!

Enjoy!

[Hardcrab]

A slightly different take on the outhaul.
Adjust as needed for the conditions as suggested, but some folks will always loosen the outhaul at the end of the day, if the sail is not going into the bag.
A stored, forever tightened outhaul might lead to a prematue streched and baggy sail, so their theory goes.