MacGregorSailors.com

I’m thinking sunken drawers that you need to lift up before you can pull them out. I think the pop out drawer pulls are the best option, though, so you can use regular slides with soft close.

https://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog- ... t8QAvD_BwE

Idiotfool wrote: ↑Wed Aug 12, 2020 7:38 pm I’m thinking sunken drawers that you need to lift up before you can pull them out. I think the pop out drawer pulls are the best option, though, so you can use regular slides with soft close.

https://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog- ... t8QAvD_BwE

I like the look of those pop-out latches. They are in the mix.

I have soft close drawer slides installed in the frames already, so notching the drawer bottoms for a lift up, is not really a good option.

Thanks!

The build is really nice - but it keeps growing - there is a lot there - the metal drawer slides are heavy - the insulated stainless sink, brass faucet, and now metal trunk latches? Metal gimbals and stove and lots of wood. It's all really nice but how much will this all weigh? Can you lift it? And then after it's in you will fill it with plates and dishes and bowls and frying pans and stuff so I was wondering if the boat will lean to one side? Or am I just worrying too much about weight? Maybe it's not really very heavy?

BOAT wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 6:41 am The build is really nice - but it keeps growing - there is a lot there - the metal drawer slides are heavy - the insulated stainless sink, brass faucet, and now metal trunk latches? Metal gimbals and stove and lots of wood. It's all really nice but how much will this all weigh? Can you lift it? And then after it's in you will fill it with plates and dishes and bowls and frying pans and stuff so I was wondering if the boat will lean to one side? Or am I just worrying too much about weight? Maybe it's not really very heavy?

Thank you! I'm no BOAT, but I'm trying...

I have been concerned with the weight from the beginning. So, you are on point, as usual. It has gotten to be a two person job to comfortably lift it. I can pick it up by myself but I don't want to break it. It's designed to be supported from the bottom, and if I try to pick it up, I've got to grab it high and in the middle, putting a lot of stuff in tension. Once it's all put together, it will be fine, as the skin will add a lot of strength. But, right now, I have to get the Admiral to help me move it. She won't be able to get it overhead for the install lift - I don't think. But I will not install the sink permanently until it's in the boat, and the drawers will all come out. I have at least one buddy that I can con into helping me load it in.

I had planned on moving the water tank to the other side of the boat to balance out the weight gain on the port side.

It's a bit heavier than the stock galley and water bladder, but it's not terrible yet. I used light wood species, and used thin materials where I could. The gimbal is aluminum, so it doesn't weigh much in spite of looking heavy. The drawer slides and sink are major contributors, but I wanted it to be nice.

Nothing is as light as Roger's OEM galley. Without the water bladder, you can toss that thing around like a soccer ball. Must be two layers of glass and gelcoat...

I'll try to get a final weight on it when it's finished.

Wanted to make some visible progress this morning, so I got the top cut and dry fit the soap dispenser, faucet and sink. Lot of sanding and detailing to do, but you can see the concept coming together.





Once I get the ends cut, there will be nothing but detail work and finishing left. Visible progress will pretty much slow to a crawl... Hope you guys don't throw me off the site due to boredom.

Okay, so now let's REALLY add more weight to it!! I have an idea!

On the right side where you have the trash can and the trash hole how 'bout a DROP IN REEFER!! :



That would be so cool!

BOAT wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 11:09 am Okay, so now let's REALLY add more weight to it!! I have an idea!

On the right side where you have the trash can and the trash hole how 'bout a DROP IN REEFER!! :

That would be so cool!

That's about the only thing that would make it heavier!

Detailed the top a bit then cleaned up the shop. Have a few errands and need to rest a bit. 12 hours a day on my feet is starting to wear me down.

lift and pull draw catches!
couldnt be cheaper!
there is a raised wooden cross member across the drawer recess just behind the face- and the drawer has a widthwise corresponding slot/recess!
when the drawer is closed- everything is snug and tight- to open the drawer, you lift the drawer so that the recess clears the little cross member and then it slides beautifully.
too close it will slide in until the recess catches on the cross member.
the cross member is maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" high

Wayne nicol wrote: ↑Fri Aug 14, 2020 8:06 pm lift and pull draw catches!
couldnt be cheaper!
there is a raised wooden cross member across the drawer recess just behind the face- and the drawer has a widthwise corresponding slot/recess!
when the drawer is closed- everything is snug and tight- to open the drawer, you lift the drawer so that the recess clears the little cross member and then it slides beautifully.
too close it will slide in until the recess catches on the cross member.
the cross member is maybe a 1/4" to 3/8" high

Got it now! Thanks for shooting it past me again... Sometimes I'm a bit slow on the uptake.

I should have sought advice from you and BOAT earlier in the build. It would have been lighter and $20 cheaper (I only had three sets of soft close slides laying around, so had to buy a set). At this point, I've been overcome by inertia. I'll stick with the slides and try to come up with some sort of latch.

Now that I know what you're talking about, we had a 19 ft motorhome with that type of drawer retainer built in. I believe it had plastic drawer slides... dont ever remember the drawers coming open either. But, we never suffered a knockdown in the motor home.

Finished veneering the drawer edges. Cut the forward and aft end panels. Cut the trash can access door in the forward end panel and hit a &@$();??!! void in plywood that is NOT supposed to have voids. Setting the hinges into the panel to keep from snagging clothes, upholstery, etc.









Void repair cost me a bit of time and I'm still not real happy with it. Glad it didn't land in the front panel, though.

After a morning of unrelated errands, I was able to make some progress in the afternoon. Got the hinges mounted on the trash can door, and got the trash can location strips mounted. It's always nice to have the trash can actually in place below the trash hole when you rake fish guts off the counter...







I started working on my drawer front strategy. I want to wrap it with a piece of oak to give a little contrast to the sea of birch. I discovered that my table saw wouldn't easily cut the trim as the saw slot was too wide. So, I decided to try the old shopsmith. Well, naturally I needed a new blade for the shopsmith, so I had to make a tool run... I'm running the blade slow, so it doesn't dust up too bad (no dust collection on the shopsmith yet), so it makes a pile of shavings in lieu of a cloud of dust. It's a little sketchy running slow, but I think it will be ok. I count fingers after each cut.







This gives an idea of what the finished trim may look like.

Managed to get three of the four drawer fronts sized and trimmed before lunch. I had to finish my chores before I could work on it (make the bed, fold the laundry, and swap out the dishwasher contents). So, I guess I'm making excuses for my slow woodworking. Actually, making that tiny trim gets hands close to blades quite a bit, so I'm pretty slow anyway.



Sorry about the low res. Old iPad camera is not so swift. Will get a better shot when I'm further along.

Had a webinar from 1 to 2, which cut into my productivity. But, still managed to get the drawer fronts and the tilt out storage door finished. Only had to make one piece of trim twice... I was surprised (and relieved) that I didn't cut any of the panels too small as I was fitting them.

I'll see if I can get the tilt out door mounted tomorrow. I want to use some sort of invisible hinge. Then, I'll need to focus on the stove cover hinge. I'm kind of queasy about screwing the piano hinge into the edge of plywood panels... Had a few ideas, but haven't settled on one yet. That panel will have a few ribs to allow air to flow between the metal heat shield and the wood, so there is a bit of thinking that needs to occur - not my strong point.



Running a sharp blade at a low rpm gave me almost dust free cutting - and left me a neat pile of shavings for easy clean up. Who knew?

Smeared the first coat of Helmsman Spar Urethane on the drawer fronts and inside the drawer boxes. I expect two more coats at least with sanding between.




Smearing finish on gave me a chance to mull over my tilt out storage design. Went to Lowes and Home Depot looking for inspiration (yeah, I know... ), and found nothing that suited me. So, I came home and figured out how to make it as complicated as humanly possible (kind of my jam ). The concept is to build the storage box, which will have a pivot rod that goes through it from side to side, just behind the face panel, about 4" off the bottom of the tilt out panel. So, when you grab the handle at the top of the panel and snatch it outward, the bottom portion of the panel will rotate inward, coming dangerously close to the trash can. To prevent the grandkids from dumping the contents by over-rotating, I put some protuberances on the box to limit angular displacement.

The cool thing about over-complicating something is, you can spend 5 hours and three trips to the store building something you could have purchased for $19.99 on Amazon... But, hey, that's just me.



It's laying on the side that screws to the tilt out face. The side facing up will point toward the trash can. I'll post a pic when I get it installed to clarify...