Page 5 of 11
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 9:29 pm
by beene
Sorry Mike, I missed your post ‘til now.
I had to put MV in storage long long ago in a land far far away ‘til spring so I won’t get a chance to do ANYTHING with her ‘til then. I just don’t have the property to keep her at home to work on her. I sure wish I did though. I have a lot of work to do.
- Battery/house system config and install
- motor mount
- throttle mount
- cable install
- eagle 2000cdf with depth/speed/ant install
- fresh water tank mod
- fix the freekn gouge I put in her back in Oct when I put her away… remember post
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewt ... c&&start=0
Just to mention a few.
I will post pics when I get going on that list. Thanks again for your help.
Cheers
G
Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 8:55 am
by aya16
Looking forward to see the motor installed. it sure is purty...
Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 1:27 pm
by Lease
Mike,
I pulled the old connectors apart and they are in bad shape. The balls that make the connection are out of round and corroded, so the connection is not good at all. Went down to the chandlers before I went away, but they don't carry that type. Didn't really use the motor much whilst I was away, so it wasn't a problem. Our next trip will be over Christmas, so I'll be going to an OB motor supplier to get new fittings before we go. Will report back after then.
Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:00 pm
by aya16
cool lease, I would go ahead and change the hoses and connectors.
If you have another outboard (Kicker) or another boat with a diff. engine you might want to go with a common connector to the tanks.
you can use any connector for diff. engines at the tank. As long as the
hose has the female same.
I like the suzuki connectors over the evenrude or merc less complicated and smaller.
I dont know what comes with the tohatsu but if they are round then they should work ok.
I also carry a spare hose and bulb on my boat. It does double duty.
Its used as a spare and I use it to transfer fuel from the main tank to the
dingy motor tank. It has no fittings. I have extra fittings in my tool box.
If the bulb cracks the engine will suck air and run lean this will burn your engine up in short order.
It sounds like your fittings are clogged, and your not getting enough fuel at high rpm. This wont hurt the engine just make it run bad.
Try and buy a higher grade hose with bulb. the cheaper ones sometimes wont push as much gas when you squeeze the bulb and you have to sometimes have the tank as high as the motor to get it started.
control cable length on 2007
Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:33 pm
by Matt19020
I am going to hook up a Uflex 184 throttle control. This is a new instalation on a 2007 Mac. Do you happen to know the length of the control cable that you need? Any help would be appreciated Thanks Matt
Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:00 pm
by aya16
Matt I dont know. But a Mac dealer that installs motors should know.
If I run into Mike Inmon next week Ill ask him. But It shouldnt be to hard to find out. Bill of boats might know too.
Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 10:44 pm
by Lease
I promised to report back on the outcome of changing the connectors (tank & engine). The engine now revs out fine. My thanks to Frank for his suggestion.
With full RPM has come a new problem however. The engine runs at WOT for about 5 minutes, and then just shuts down. Scary thing since it is in gear when it goes, it stops really quickly as though it has siezed. No siezure though. Take it out of gear, turn the key, and away it goes for another 5 minutes.
My first guess is that I've got a badly adjusted overheat sensor. The engine is definitely not overheating as the water pump is working fine and one can easily put a hand on the cylinder walls and head. They are warm, but not hot to the touch.
I'll hit the manual and see what I can see, but any suggestions would be welcome.
Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 11:03 pm
by kmclemore
Lease wrote:With full RPM has come a new problem however. The engine runs at WOT for about 5 minutes, and then just shuts down. Scary thing since it is in gear when it goes, it stops really quickly as though it has siezed. No siezure though. Take it out of gear, turn the key, and away it goes for another 5 minutes.
Hmm... I wonder if the fuel tanks are venting properly?
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:14 am
by James V
MMMMM - Do you have the manual?
Do you have any displays that have something odd like to high RPM's or Low oil pressure?
Your fuel lines could also be preventing the flow. You could also be getting a air leak. Of course it could just be a bad fuel filter.
Do you have any gas additives in the fuel?
Bad fuel?
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:10 am
by Frank C
Lease wrote: ... With full RPM has come a new problem however. The engine runs at WOT for about 5 minutes, and then just shuts down. Scary thing since it is in gear when it goes, it stops really quickly as though it has siezed. No siezure though. Take it out of gear, turn the key, and away it goes for another 5 minutes. . . .
Lease,
The earlier symptoms "smelled" like fuel starvation, clearly. The new symptom is a complete, instantaneous engine halt - agreeing with your intuition, that sure "smells electical" either programmed (computer response to a heat sensor) or faulty ignition (maybe a coil fault). How strange that it comes back so quickly!?
Gotta doubt that this is another fuel delivery problem.
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 5:38 am
by James V
Another thought is that you could have a bad electrical conection and at that vibration it breaks the cicuit.
Try wigling the wires when the motor is running.
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 6:17 am
by kmclemore
Yeah, I thought that too, Frank, but howcme he's able to restart so quickly? If it were heat-related (overheated coil or temp sensor) he'd have to wait a bit for things to cool down... and it would also not be very long before it re-heated and gave the same problem - not the continual 5-minutes he's noted. That's why I thought it might be a vacuum in the fuel lines, though admittedly that would be a sputtering halt, not a dead cut-off as described.
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:02 pm
by Lease
One of the reasons that I thought it had to do with overheat protection is that it does not happen at my prefered cruise power of two thirds throttle.
Had a quick look at the manual last night, but it is of the type that covers all models and notes that there are sensors and warnings, without going into details.
Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:06 pm
by kmclemore
When is the last time you checked the emergency lanyard cut-off? Is it possible that the plastic thing that keeps that circut open is vibrating out? I know it's a long-shot, but anything's possible! It does sound like an electical failure somewhere.
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:29 am
by Lease
First place I swivelled my eyes to.
Pushed it in harder and thought that was it. Next couple of times I did nothing but restart.