MacGregorSailors.com

Phil M wrote:Does anyone secure their mast with a hitchpin instead of using the bolt and nut?



Phil M

Yes, have used the hitchpin for the past two seasons. Works great! No corrosion yet.

Marc

I'm still using the bolt and nut, and was planning on ordering a couple of SS pins from BWY this winter. The plated hitch pin may be a cost-effective option, though, depending on how long it lasts in the weather.

I'm a SS kind of guy!! but I like the hitchpin as well

In fresh water around Rochester, you won't need stainless imhe.

From Albany area

In the very corrosive San Diego Bay, galvanized/plated seems to last a solid three to four seasons before needing replacement. Given that it's generally 1/10th the price to buy at Lowes or Home Depot vs. West Marine 316SS, it takes about 40 years to be cost equivalent for anything that can just be replaced.

True enough, but BWY has the SS mast base pin for $10, including two ring dings. But I may try the hitch pin for a while anyway. Just because.

Just out of interest, I have had one problem since starting to use this remove the spreaders method.

I trailered my boat 20 miles or so and the mast, with no spreaders on it, was able to twist itself sideways. I guess the weight then,, aided by a few bumps in the road, caused one of the two prongs that hold the mast in position on the mast carrier, to bend and the mast fell out of the carrier. It landed on my solar panel which is positioned behind the mast carrier. If it wasnt for the fact that I had tied the mast in position, it would have possibly fallen off the boat

My biggest lesson here is, to make sure i ALWAYS tie the mast to the boat because I am guilty of not having done that before....

My mast is securely tied at each end, and I use a small ratchet strap in the middle to eliminate any movement or vibration in the middle of the mast, along with the mast holder mod http://www.macgregorsailors.com/modt/in ... ?view=1341

Phil M

My wife did mention that the mast bounces quite a bit more without the spreaders on, from her perspective following in the car. It's not been a problem for us because I tie down at the mast carrier and with a dock line at the cabin forward stanchions using a truckers hitch that pulls the mast down tight, which is what Mike at the factory taught me to do.

Thanks for the warning about mast movement when the spreaders are off.

This 5 page discussion which includes the premise that removing and installing the spreaders at take-down and put-up and this is part of a larger discussion about 'raising the mast fast' is totally ludicrous. Any procedure that involves steps is done faster when there are less steps in the process. Removing the spreaders is an extra step, totally unnecessary, it adds both complication and increases safety concerns. If you don't like the Mac dance, shorten the spreaders. Since I have already posted my ideas about improving the process then it's enough said by me.

the color of your boat shoes is by far the biggest factor - white boat shoes being faster than blue of course..

<bada bum, crash>

Newell wrote:This 5 page discussion which includes the premise that removing and installing the spreaders at take-down and put-up and this is part of a larger discussion about 'raising the mast fast' is totally ludicrous. Any procedure that involves steps is done faster when there are less steps in the process. Removing the spreaders is an extra step, totally unnecessary, it adds both complication and increases safety concerns. If you don't like the Mac dance, shorten the spreaders. Since I have already posted my ideas about improving the process then it's enough said by me.

Removing the spreaders doesnt create more steps for me as it cuts out having to put the mast down on the cabin roof and walk back to untangle the shrouds hung up on my solar panel. On average that would have to be done twice while moving the mast back. However, no, I dont think removing the spreaders makes the process any faster really, but so far I believe it makes it less hassle.

I may yet cut off the 4 inches from the spreaders and see how it goes. I always thought they looked too long anyway... I can't see its going to harm anything, as long as the shrouds dont end up too long which would be a pain. So how do you adjust the shrounds where they connect to the spreaders, once you cut the 4 inches off. I mean, do you you just unscrew the caps which I believe are on the ends of the spreaders (I'm going off memory here..) and then pull the shrouds tight and then screw them back in?

Not ludicrous ....... sensible!

Unless you're prepared to relieve the safety lines with a goose neck in this location as well, it make a lot of sense to prep the spreaders with some form of 'quick dis-assembly' mechanism. Another point I have encountered is when bagging for the winter in the 'great white north' it really helps to get the ends of the spreaders out of the way, in order to avoid poking holes in an expensive Canadian Tire tarpaulin (and quickly because snow waits for no one)!

PITA

Mac26Mpaul wrote:I may yet cut off the 4 inches from the spreaders and see how it goes. I always thought they looked too long anyway... I can't see its going to harm anything, as long as the shrouds dont end up too long which would be a pain. So how do you adjust the shrounds where they connect to the spreaders, once you cut the 4 inches off. I mean, do you you just unscrew the caps which I believe are on the ends of the spreaders (I'm going off memory here..) and then pull the shrouds tight and then screw them back in?

I cut 5.5" off mine, pulled the shroud tight with spreader ends pointed slightly higher to account for any slack. I converted my chain plates to turnbuckles but I believe the shorter spreaders did not change the chain plate dimensions too much as the original tangs have a lot of adjustment.

Bob