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I thought I remember something about wood blocking supposed to be under there, accessible through the mirrors in the cabin?

Well I know what I'm doing about it. Should work well on all boats.



Made of 1/4 inch or better SS drilled for 1/4 flat head machine screws. Drill and tap into existing mast step. The ears on the face plate catch on the tops of the angle irons.
Ix
Edit: probably only two bolts would be better.

That should work perfectly. I might do that as preventative maintainence.

yukonbob wrote:That should work perfectly. I might do that as preventative maintainence.

+1

Be nice if someone with the know how and equipment offered these for sale
Hint hint


Ix

Here is the repair with the first coat of gelcoat (that did not set up last night ) Note that there is no longer any deck overhang into the trunk - all is supported by brass reinforced epoxy.
I consider this a repair of the damage, not sure if it solves the problem.

Looks like it never happened! I'd be doing Ix's mod as well for extra security as well.

Similar to IX's mod, but perhaps simpler, would be to pass a pin under the top of the foot forward-most spot before it bends downward, drilling a hole into the bracing, such that the pin holds the foot above the side brackets. A 1/4 bolt should do the job, and should fit.

mastreb wrote:Similar to IX's mod, but perhaps simpler, would be to pass a pin under the top of the foot forward-most spot before it bends downward, drilling a hole into the bracing, such that the pin holds the foot above the side brackets. A 1/4 bolt should do the job, and should fit.

Good one Matt (and Ix). One hole to drill. And flats could be ground at the ends (where they contact the angle iron) suitably to get the needed dimension that gives the proper mast rake for each boat. A bead of silicone to hold it in place.

I was just thinking about drilling a hole each side in the top behind the forward foot. Use this to hold fender washers with a bolt. Fender washers would protrude far enough to rest on the mast base deck brackets. Washers would allow adjusting the thickness and even using a brass one at the bottom to avoid damaging the edge of the steel angle since such a loading here has the chance of deforming these brackets (not the normal way to load such a member). Washers are also easily repairable and offer more of a bearing surface than a pin. Plus avoids the challenge of drilling through a fillet weld.

oooh, that was frustrating- typed a reply then came back and it was gone

Anyway, just wondering if any of you came up with a solution that you're happy with.. We have the same type issue. The PO istalled 1/8" ss plates under the mast base angles, covering the daggerboard trunk and drilled another set of holes in the angles (not sure why) in the middle and thru bolted it all. We had to take the whole thing apart to get the daggerboard out to inspect (and subsequently rebuild). We fixed the top of the trunk and thought we might just install the angles without the plates but the mast base doesn't look right- i'm pretty certain that's why they installed the plates. Some of you had said that the 1/8" plate would adversely affect the rake and we would like to be able to pull the daggerboard without taking it all apart. So, we're just wondering if someone came up with a better plan?

i have to say, we haven't had her out on the water yet, so I don't know if we had the rigging properly adjusted whether the base plate would damge the trunk, but it appears that the PO did, so we're trying to fix a possible issue before it comes up.

mahalo

I located a good welding shop this year. They already rebuild my mast pivot for me. Next year I will have them do the mod I outlined in this thread earlier.
Ix

Ixneigh wrote:I located a good welding shop this year. They already rebuild my mast pivot for me. Next year I will have them do the mod I outlined in this thread earlier.
Ix

So, the mod you sketched is on the fwd face of the mast base, right? What was your plan for the bottom lip of the plate? grind it off? My husband and I can both weld, but i wasnt too sure about grind the lip off of the base...