MacGregorSailors.com

Here is the Amsteel at west marine it is highly abrasion resistant check all the comments from users
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... howReviews

From the Sampson Rope site this quote gives me concern ... Bottom of page two.

"Pitted, scored or gouged surfaces act like knives against any synthetic rope."

If your replacing the winch line, would this not be an issue on the keel end?

Nice stuff ... and cheap for what you get

"Pitted, scored or gouged surfaces act like knives against any synthetic rope.
If your replacing the winch line, would this not be an issue on the keel end?"


For the keel end, you would use a thimble in an eye splice at the end of the line. Use a large flat washer on each side of the thimble and use afew more on the keel side to space the line away from the keel. A friend of mine has used an Amsteel line on his V22 for a little over a year and reports no problems. The added benefit is that there is no more "humming" from the keel cable (if that hum bothers you).

What is this plate attached to and what is its purpose?

The bracket is an "L" shaped piece of stainless flat stock that attaches the keel trunk to the bulkhead for support of the keel trunk. You can see the bolt that attaches it to the trunk by removing (if they are in there) the left uppermost plastic plug that is in the liner under the compression post ( 3 plugs are there: one for the keel pivot, one for the keel lockdown and one for this support bolt). It helps to keep the trunk from flexing when heeled over (thats when the top of the keel is resting on the side of the trunk and puts the most leverage on the trunk). It's an important structural component in a very simple design by Roger.

Use a fresh bolt and thin compression washers (made of stainless of course) to protect it because Pitted scorned rusted steel acts like knives on Friggin anything LOL <after reading the document> It said exactly that prep the surface by grinding or sanding first to prolong the life of the product lol

THE CUSCUS wrote:The bracket is an "L" shaped piece of stainless flat stock that attaches the keel trunk to the bulkhead for support of the keel trunk...

That is very good to know, thanks for the info. I'm replacing my bulkhead this winter as it was allowed to totally soak with water by PO

By the way, should there be a structural vertical support from the top of the trunk to the underside of the mast step?

Also the mast step seems really flimsy. Is there any need or advantage to having a better one built? I'm thinking of a thicker aluminum one.

THanks and sorry for the hijack - I just couldn't resist that nice clear picture to piggyback off of

More the merrier ... about the mast support. I'd think it was a necessary piece ... at least it was on my Cat27, the shrouds when tensioned correctly can but a lot downward pressure on the mast. I saw boat where the bottom of the support was rotten and the mast almost came through the deck. There was a gust of wind and the whole boat shuddered and all the shrouds came loose. The owner was freaking that his boat broke in two. Easy fix, but scary when the support collapsed about 2".

That "vertical support" would be the compression post, and is a VERY important item. As already stated, as you tension the shrouds, the force pushes the mast downwards and if there is nothing underneath, you mast WILL come through the deck! I had my tabernacle (mast step) lengthened


so I could secure better and beef it all up on the inside

Does anyone with a 22' have a picture on how the stock rudder lock down/pull up system is laid out?

I was thinking something like this to get by ... with the other end to the aft hole, but there is mention of a cheek block being used. Nothing in the manual and I don't like reinventing the wheel

Rudder line: I can take pic next time I put my boat in the water but it's pretty simple.

Tie one end of a rope through the leading edge hole in the lower rudder.
Run line through center of cleat on upper rudder.
Run the other end of the line through the trailing edge of the lower rudder.
Ensure line is long enough for lower rudder to pivot up and down.
Tie line to trailing edge lower rudder hole.
Cut off excess line.

The line can now be cleated to keep the rudder up, or down. Excess line is bad as it may get close to prop if you have a motor.

Word of advice.... My rudder tends to swing up slightly so I tie (lock) it down. If you cleat (lock) the rudder down damage can occur if you run aground just like the keel lockdown risk.
I pulled my boat out of the water part way with the rudder locked down, it was not fun.

Your keel lockdown hole looks good, it was taken care of or repaired well at some point.
Buy extra rubber washers for the lockdown bolt, they wear quickly, at least for me.

That winch looks original, you can get a new one just like it at Northern Tool for about $50.
I would use good quaulity stainless cable to replace the winch cable. There may be some awesome line that will withstand possible chafing, submersion, and the elements, but I'm not sure how you would secure it to the keel without weakening the line. I know the winch looks kinda bad, but if the cable isn't frayed I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to replace it. You should be able to inspect the cable bolt from under the boat or through the cockpit drain. In case you didn't know the winch is a clutch winch, meaning it has no lock or ratcheting action, so be careful not to oil the clutch disc.

Those genoa tracks look just like mine. The car is nice, wish I had those, I just use the original jam cleats. My understanding is macgregor pretty much used the cheapest stuff available and it varied from year to year. I'm guessing most boats came rigged from the factory. My tracks are just a few inches further back. Probably just means jim was sick and larry put them on that day. You could slide them back a few holes if you don't mind drilling.

I would put flotation back in there if I were you. A cheap and easy way might be to put a bunch of cheap pool rafts in there. The kind you lay out on. Perpendicular to the length of the boat. Probably on big time clearance this time of year.

I got my 22 a year ago and have had fun and challenges working on her.

TheJoe wrote: .... Tie one end of a rope through the leading edge hole in the lower rudder.
Run line through center of cleat on upper rudder.
Run the other end of the line through the trailing edge of the lower rudder.
Ensure line is long enough for lower rudder to pivot up and down.
Tie line to trailing edge lower rudder hole.
Cut off excess line ....

I had the day off today so I went to Blue Water Yachts in Seattle and picked up a few replacement parts. While there, Gail from parts, nice lady, showed me a factory drawing on how the rudder lines were set up ... just like above. Only addition is that the line goes through only the bottom pintle, and the ends are knotted on the opposite side of the cleat.

I'm sealing a few scratches/gouges on my rudder, so when I get it finished I'll post a picture of how I saw it setup.

Some rudder work ...

This is before I removed all the rocks


Couple of chunks missing from Gel Coat ... or glass cover.


Removed paint to raw wood. No rot ... lucky me.

After the first application of 6-10 filler, and some rough shaping

This is the filler I'm using. Working good so far.