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The 4s models are quite big.

That Etec 90 in white does look good.



G

Are you guy's really that gullable !!!

like Alex said do you really believe this crap no mention as to what props were on the Yamaha"s Doe ???????????? I'm a lic mech for over 45yrs rebuilt more 2 stroke 's eng 's when I raced on & worked on motorcylce race teams than the lot of Ya put together & that includes truck 2 stroke diesels detroit 318, a 2 stroke works twice as hard as a four stroke there fore wears out twice as fast more problematic , But as you all already know so much !!! I'll leave you's all to figure it out !!!! by yourself's . I'll stick with my 40hp 4S Zusi . in the end it all depends on your own personal choice ? I know a few mech's who would argue with me but I can't help it if their disilusioned !!
I added a 45# pro high-jacker plate onto my eng. & transom & increased my aceleration & top end speed , decreased fuel consumsation So now explain the lighter etec advantage to me !!!!????? me thinks you guy's better do a wee bit better studing the facts than the promo's & the B/S Hype !!!!!!!!!! that comes with it !!!,, Be happy go sailing !!!!

Cheers John

Sounds like the ford vs chevy thing again. I will say this. If you operate mostly in salt water, you would be hard pressed to get a better engine than the etec. I had mine for 3 years now. Just had the first service. Haven't had to touch it at all prior to that. No oil changes. No flushing. Yes, it is optional. Says that right in the manual. I flush about 3 times per year just in case. I'm far from a mech but my dealer who also sells the JohnZuki 4S 50 or 60 told me that salt kills a 4S engine. So far, the only problem I had was a leaky oil tank which was replaced under warranty. Ho many 50 hp engines will spin a 14 x 13 prop? My only regret is not getting the etec 90 hp (only 320 lbs.) Would be nice to run at 3700 rpm rather than 5000 and be able to hit 30 mph once in a while.

Leon

Highlander, bite yer tongue lad

Jest so happens my F150 Ford pickup truck has a 353 Detroit Diesel. A motor swap I did when it was a wee 1 year old. It is a 1976 model. She's 30 years old and I drive it 62 miles daily five days a week. Lord only knows how many miles are on her, but I will dare say she been around the block

... and oh yeah, for the benefit of the 'non-diesel' mechanics out there not familiar with the old Detroit Diesel, my baby is a 2 STROKE!

My main concern about any 2S is low speed fouling. I have heard of the tohatsu's low speed fouling, but have not heard anything about ETEC's yet.
As for Jimmy diesels, they are nasty leaking PITA to maintain, their only redeeming quality is ease to work on. BTW the 1st digit stands for the number of cylinders and the rest stand for the number of CC's of fuel injected at WOT. I picked all of this up in Local 450 I.U.O.E trade school and on the job(5yrs) on 353,453,V653,V871, and the dreaded 6110 which could startup backards and do a runaway(running off the crankcase oil) if you didn't kill the air promptly .

For all it's other bad traits (noisy, gas hungry, smokey when cold, oil spitting) I must say my carbed 1996 Tohatsu is amazingly reliable and simple to maintain. It's never seen the inside of a dealers shop.

I've owned it since 2001, all I've ever done is change plugs and lower unit oil every couple years. Many years I never even ran it dry at the end of the season. Always starts on the first crank the next season on old gas. I've never had a fouled plug in all the time I've owned it. It just runs and runs.

I may go for a major maintenance cycle this year and change the water pump impeller, I don't think it's ever been changed since it was new in 1996.

test

I second Duane's post, I have a' 93 Tohatsu 2S 40hp that I've had since '96 and mine runs like a charm. Never been to the shop, I changed the impeller once and the plugs and lower oil every year, and I've put alot of hours on it as the Admiral and I use our as a powerboat, we haven't sailed for the last 6 years, and we still get 22+ mph @ WOT, and it idles like new
Doug

John (Highlander);

Actually, I'm not too gullible at all (stupid maybe but not gullible - - - I look at most claims with a jaundiced eye). All I know is my 60 E-Tec zooms my up on a plane and gives me about 20 mph fully loaded iwth one other body (sic) aboard. The two strokes of today are MUCH more advanced than the motorcycle two strokes you were working on years ago.

I admit I'm no expert, but I know my E-Tec is a great piece of equipment. Zoom Zoom!

Rick

As an ex 4 stroke fan I am more than impressed with the e-tec, has anybody considered the advantages of a 2 stroke if the motor accidently gets immersed?
Not likely on a Mac but seen a lot of tinnies 4 strokes stuffed or needing major maintenance but the 2 stroke is just drain and go, very handy in remote locations.
Like the debate the one you have will be better.

delevi wrote:If you operate mostly in salt water, you would be hard pressed to get a better engine than the etec. I had mine for 3 years now. Just had the first service. Haven't had to touch it at all prior to that. No oil changes. No flushing. Yes, it is optional. Says that right in the manual. I flush about 3 times per year just in case.

I flush my 60 E-Tec once a month anyway (just because) - - it is in a slip year round at MDR, CA. I talked to Evinrude people at the LA Boat Show in Jan, 2006, right after I bought my Mac, and they assured me I did not have to flush the engine, but I still do occasionally. When I did it last Saturday, my neighbor said "that's the first time I've ever seen you do that" and I explained why and he doesn't believe it or see how it is possible not to have to flush in salt water?

I have no knowledge on the other newer outboards, but I know that the computer systems on the E-Tec are awesome - - - including an automatic shutdown to about 700 RPM's (limp home) if anything is wrong with the engine. Fuel efficientcy is REALLY good. The engine also has a diagnostic computer system that tells the mechanic what went wrong and WHEN it occured! I vote for E-Tec too!

Rick

Not much of a small engine mechanic when it comes to lawnmowers and weedeaters, but have spent nearly 30 years working on big rigs. Cummings, Maxidine, Detroit Diesel, Caterpillar line of iron and was certified and trained by Coastal Power in Deland Florida and Tampa. Moreover, I am trained and certified on Allison Transimission 500 series up to the 800 series 13 speed as well as Roadranger and Spicer (24 spd) transmission just to mention a few. Have rebuilt many many a velvet drive used in marine applications and can say ... Sleepy you know your Detroit as well as those who love the slobbering dog! The Detroit Diesel akin to the likes of the Turner&Hootch type pooch. Not everyone loved them, but those like me, that do, know they are loyal and will never leave you sitting. ie; say what you will, but you will never see a post about how they conk- out and cost valuable hours just sitting on the slab. They run when no other will.

Tom

TAW02 your are right about the Jimmy's reliability but I was spoiled working with the CAT's,Cummins,etc... as a oiler & mechanic's helper until I raised my book. I did the cleanup to keep the EPA & safety guys off of our backs. After much hearing loss I went back to computer work, didn't pay as well but 20 years later it did! To top it off my stepfather put a 6110 in his shrimper were upon I insisted on air cutoff cables to the deckhouse just in case! If and when I buy M26 a ETEC 60 would be nice, A MFE Vindicator ETEC 60 would be even nicer! I like to see a motor around 5 years before I trust it.

Sorry, but I don't get how an e-tec 2s can be any more salt tolerant than a 4s. Is it air cooled? Or does it have the same type water pump, pump to block connection, and engine cooling passages that a 4S has? If the latter, then how can it be any different?

Yes, Sleepy the 110 series(also known as 110 cubic inches per cylinder) were easy to in-frame since the cylinder heads were dedicated to the cylinder they operated. That and the fact they had enormous low-end torque qualities made them and easy fuel savings decision for marine use. They could essentially idle tug a cruise ship from its mooring cleats! The 18" bronze prop weighs as much as my evinrude 9.9 hp that I use on my MAC25! Keeping in mind they fired every stroke. As far as high end, well ... would you like a beer with that hotdog?

Soooo ... what it all boils down to here (in this discussion), is what are we looking at here? High end or low end. Can't have both. Saw the video supplied on this discussion and not only do I believe it so, I am not impressed or amused. A 2 stroke will 'hole shot' a 4 stroker any day of the week, unless we move into an alternate dimension or something.

But listen up here;
The key thing to remember here is prop size. A prop that will bogg-down a 4 stroker on take off, will work perfectly well on a 2 stroker and thus bring the boat to trim faster. Cool eh? Like you Sleepy, I lurked around and followed the Bomardier mistake on Evinrude in the early years with the research on Etec. Since early 2000, the Etec has come a long way. Microcontroller technology (embedded Harvard Architecture) has brought new and brilliant advances to the both the worlds of EPA and A2D/D2A Conversions sciences. There cannot be a more efficient science over a more sophisticated yet simple mechanical design as a 2 stroke engine. Far less mechanical to wear and fail. Far easier to adapt and control via microcontroller than any other type of engine and thus, more economical to run and maintain.

Finally, I made my purchase for my 2007 MAC M, a 3 star Evinrude Etec 50 hp. Pound for pound IMHO a far superior marine engine for this boat and for the money.

Tom

I don't know Dimitiri, but it just works. Doesn't need flushing, period. I just had my 1st and only service recently after 3 years. I haven't flushed the engine at all my first year. Very heavy use. About 300 hours on the engine, approx 90% in salt water. Maybe flushed 5-6 times total. The diagnostics and inspections reported no problems. Had the gear oil changed, plus new spark plugs and some lube work. Cost me $115. Leaky oil tank replaced under warranty. That's it. No additional service needed for another 2-3 years. I asked if I should change the impeller but the mech said it will go another 3 years easy. "Come back when you have about 500 hours on the engine." Hard to argue with that.

Leon