Powering up a new MacM

[Rich Walton]

I am in the process of re-powering my X. I currently have a Suzuki DF50. It is trashed a blown head gasket that let water into the oil that ruined the power head. It is a long story but Suzuki only has a 3 year warranty after that it is a warranty company NOT SUZUKI! So when I bought my boat I thought that I was getting a 6 year warranty and only got a 3 year because the dealer didn’t send in the paper work. Also if you have an issue with a Suzuki they do every thing in there power to say it is not covered! They said I got water in my fuel that caused my head gasket to blow and I never got a overheat alarm. The bottom line for me is a trashed motor and no help from Suzuki. It was the worst experience for me ever dealing with a company! I am going to go to a small clams class and take them to court.

Bottom line Suzuki doesn’t stand behind the motors! I will never buy from them or recommend them ever!

[aya16]

really it is a choice that would depend on use. Me wanting a light weight 90
may not be what someone else wants.

But heavy seas and bad weather dictates no matter what you have on the back of the Mac, you go as fast as its safe. In that case almost any motor will be fine. But if you plan to go over twenty miles on a trip and you will be useing the Mac as a power boat I think its best to have as much hp as
possible.

Some people assume that powering the mac with a large engine the owner will go out and trash the boat. I dont I assume that most will be prudent as to how they use it.

a 90 hp engine is used all the time on 15 foot boats. Its not exactly
a large engine. Like a 250hp would be. And there are engines in the 90hp
range that weigh less than 50 four strokes.

but if you ever think you would use the boat at speeds of over 17 mph
you would be better off with something with a little more hp than a 50

[Terry]

I think night sailor hit the nail on the head when he said:

It was a major improvement in handling at slow speed when I moved from a 3 blade 11" prop on my '97 Merc 50hp 2 stroke to a 12.4 " four blade. This has been a very good factor in handling breakers, larger seas and rips, tidal currents and wakes from barges and large powerboats.

Up here in the Pacific Nortwest we get 10 - 15 ft tides, strong currents, rip tides many container ships and barges and other commercial traffic. As much as I like my Honda for its reliability (and it does get me up to 19-20MPH at the beginning of the season with fresh waxed hull & light load) it does lack the low end torque. So if I could go back I would still get the lightest engine with the best power to weight ratio but I would also like an engine that can swing a 14" prop. It would also have the big ears and four blades to get the maximum push at low speeds when going through passes with strong currents or rip tides. It is seldom if ever I am at WOT so speed is of little concern, it is having the torque at low speeds that counts for me and I have been in situations where I was thankful for the big eared four blade prop I use.

[Matt19020]

Oh, dear... get ready for the onslaught of opinions, Matt! That's like asking which woman to choose - homely but smart or pretty but daft!

Well as I am trying to narrow down the search on the motor it is becoming more difficult ... I am not a "Toy Tower" at this time. The reason I was thinking of the larger motor is mainly from a safety standpoint. The boat is self-righting with full ballast and if I can achieve reasonable speed with full ballast I would prefer too. This may be a little over cautious but I prefer to be safe then sorry.

This is not that I feel the boat will be "knocked down" under power. The majority of my time will be solo sailing and I have a slight physical disability. If I can lesson my chances of Murphys law happening I would rather set the boat up as stable as possible. My mindset right now is towards a Etec 60-75. The Suzuki is still an option. However as I design my "Ideal boat" on paper the cost of the Etec is very luring. I purchased my MacM from Bill Beers @ Boats4Sail and felt he was able to give me the best boat price out there by far...

[DLT]

My mindset right now is towards a Etec 60-75.

They make a 40/50/60 model, which is a two cylinder. They also make a 75/90 three cylinder model.

I'm not one to suggest going with the lower power unit. I did it and wasn't/aint happy... So, if I were you, I would not consider the 75.

Either go for the 90hp or go with the 60hp. You will be paying the size/weight penalty, of the 90hp motor, for little gain with the 75...

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

If I can lesson my chances of Murphys law happening I would rather set the boat up as stable as possible. My mindset right now is towards a Etec 60-75.

an ETEC 60 is basically an "up-tuned" ETEC 50 powerhead with a 14" prop. probably the best choice for a 260# motor. On the otherhand, the 75 and 90 ETEC use the same 315# powerhead. therefore, you must go with the 90.

Bob T.
"DaBob"
'02X w/ '04 90-TLDI (14" x 11 pitch)
Dinghy Motor: '06 2.5-Suzuki

[Frank C]

i really like my 310# Tohatsu 90-TLDI. narrow powerhead, great low end torque, and extremely fuel efficient.
i only wish that a light weight 300# 90hp 4-stroke Suzuki was available.
a Suzi 70hp weighs 335#, while a 90, 115, or 140hp weighs nearly 425# ...

I'm a bit curious to learn what you're looking to change on that 90 ...
just how would that Suzuki-90-light differ from the TLDI?

[delevi]

Actually, I believe the Etec 40/50/60 are the same engine with the same 220 lb weight. The only difference is the electronics. My 50 came with a 14" / 13 pitch prop which gave me 20-21 mph top speed w/o ballast in smooth seas. I am downsizing to about 13.25 to 13.5" to compensate for the extra weight of my heavy keel. If you don't want the extra weight and $3k cost, go with the 60 vs 50. I regret not getting it. At the time, the 60 was $600 more and I bought into MacGregor's coveat about not using anything over 50 hp. If you decide to take on the extra weight, go with the 90, since like the 40/50/60 it is the same engine and wieght as the 75 but different electronics.

Leon

[marsanden]

The reason I was thinking of the larger motor is mainly from a safety standpoint. The boat is self-righting with full ballast and if I can achieve reasonable speed with full ballast I would prefer too. This may be a little over cautious but I prefer to be safe then sorry. ..

My 2001 26x runs, always ballasted, with a merc bf 50 , 16 kn - 5300 rpm. Very easy to drive the boat at low speed too, when docking. If i change my engine , i think on a merc bf efi 60 cv, not more.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

I'm a bit curious to learn what you're looking to change on that 90 ...
just how would that Suzuki-90-light differ from the TLDI?

misunderstanding...i'm not looking to change, only commenting that the ideal outboard for me would be a 310# 4-stroke 90hp.

the reason why i went with Tohatsu over Suzuki for the "up-power" two years ago was because a 90hp Suzuki is a monster. weighs over 400#. if that's your choice, you might as well go with the 140hp Suzuki which is the same powerhead.

also, at the time i up-powered with my Tohatsu, the ETEC 90hp was just becoming available and the best price i could find installed was $9,000 or $2,000 more than the Tohatsu. Prices have come down a bit since then.

all things being equal, a 4-stroke is preferred over 2-stroke (emissions, MPG, smooth & quiet at low trolling speeds). but the current problem with the 4-stroke is the heavy weight and noticeable torque difference vs a 2-stroke.

[blanton]

I went with the Suzuki 140. The 140 cowl has a weird hump at the top rear of upper cowling. That hump precludes tilting up under the M's helm seat. It's easily changed out (two screws?) with the non-humpy plastic piece from a 115.

As is, the (now modified) cowling on the 140 will not quite reach full tilt up under the helm seat, with a bit of cut-out/modification (raising) of the helm seat perhaps indicated, but not very much.

In addition to removing the "hump" from the 140's cowling, I pulled off the "140" decal, achieving a further degree of stealth and not attracting as much attention at the ramp.

Wonderful motor. It's basically a quite-strong modern automobile motor, marinized. The weight distribution of these motors is favorable because the powerhead (crank), and associated weight, is offset fwd of the vertical drive shaft.

I started out with the 70, and the 140 uses the same transom mount and controls as the 70, so the change-out was "plug and play".

The 140 is definitely not overtaxed in this capacity.

[Gazmn]

Hopefully, you won't need service. But find out who your local mechs are and what they're tunin' - - & hope they service Etecs

Then get the biggest one that fits in your motor well that you won't regret paying for. This boat attracts "stuff" like a sponge. So, get the biggest "stuff hauler" you can Barely afford.

Oh, and have fun

-Gaz

And if it turns out to be an Etec - get the Saltwater whether you'll be in fresh water, or not.

Remember, White Etecs go with everything

[NiceAft]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MATT. It's one year (& 1 day) since you started this thread

Ray