MacGregorSailors.com

Hey all -

I just found this on the Sam's Club web site:

http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/naviga ... pCatg=4635

My 26M measures just under 33 feet long including the mast off the back and the trailer hitch in the front. So, under this 33' x 12.5' canopy the boat would be well sheltered. The center height can be adjusted up to 14', so it should be plenty high enough to back the boat in with the mast on top.

It is a bit pricey, but then it says it is good up to 70 mph winds...

- Andy

Wow... "a bit pricey"... I'll say so. I'll agree it's nice and a dang sight easier than flopping the tarp and supporting structure on every time, but yikes, $1,200 bucks? For that much it should come with a little man that helps you back your boat under it every time.

Mine is a combination of two $89 10 x 20 canopy specials and a $39 set of sides. I've even got a spare roof and extra tubes and fittings if any get damaged. With 3 leg sections the boathouse is the perfect height. The trailer rolls right in through the zip up door.

I ended up doing what Don n Cheri did, but with variations. Used 3/4" PVC pipes & tees thru-out. First, with mast down at travel position, built a suitable strongback along/above the mast with 2x's & strapping to make a horizontal ridge. Next, located on each side, 14' horizontal strapping boards at bootstripe level with screwed in plastic U-shaped straps at desired intervals. Placed pipes in U-straps to vertical. Made up pairs of tees end to end with 3" length of pipe, bringing opposing vertical pipes together with tee assembly at ridge. Then connected tee assms. with appropriate length pipes to form ridge & secured to strongback.

The wood strongback gives solid support for heavy snowfall / wind. Ridge is about 36" above cabin top. Instead of cutting pipes to end at bases of lifeline posts, I sent full length (10') pipes over the lifelines & down to waterline to make a frame that cocoons the boat, keeping the tarp off the hull. Total of 4 "rib" stations between transom and mast step. Pipe / tees slip fit only - no glue or pins. To be covered with a 20' x 30' heavy duty tarp.

Kevin wrote:

So, I tried making a 'ribcage' out of pvc pipe, but when I tried bending it (with the tips placed at the bottom of the staunchions) the PVC just snapped - too much bending I guess.

By sending the full length PVC over the side as I did, I believe the stress of bending will be less, over a greater area...BUT, stressed just the same. I was drilling the near bottom of the PVC pipes, while bent, to place a screw to anchor the pipe to the wood, when the last pipe cracked in that area. Not broken enough to replace, will just brace it with a screw clamp. It was a mild day - near 60*, otherwise successful bending.

EXCELLENT. That's what I was looking for. Thanks!

You can't see it in the photo, but I've started weaving a tight line web-like between the stanchions & the strongback to add additional support to the tarp between the ribs. For my popup camper, I use an elevated strongback and the webbing idea to create an A-frame structure that has no problem shedding snow. The drawback is spending a lot of time routing the rope and making it supertight. I suppose that some horizontal ribs could be added to the upper structure after the fact if necessary.

I decided when we covered the boat with a 15x30 white plastic tarp that the angle wasn't steep enough,even with the "mast lifter" I built for the forward part of the mast. Short on time,on a perfect day to cover the boat I used a simple wooden "T". The base is a 2x4,mounted on a section of 2x4 running side to side to spread the load(near the traveler) and the top of the t is a piece of strapping,running lengthwise. I made a similar "T" for the forward section of the boat,mounted on the mast step. I connected the two pieces of strapping with a pvc "sleeve". Plenty of height now and the snow should just slide off the sides. The whole thing was done with "stuff" I had saved. Cost $0. How often will that happen with a Mac?

I think one good place to put supports is in the goal posts.
Remove the rubber crutch tips and put the tubing/plastic pipe right in them.
Unless you have a good method of keeping the water out, I would drill a hole in the bottom of them so any water can get out.

I was told that the coarse, cheap blue, black, gray tarps sold at WM will scratch the boat. Since I don't want to spend big money on a boat cover, I haven't purchased one yet. Anyone have experience with these inexpensive tarps/scratches?

When I used a full cover tarp of reinforced poly, like the ones at Walmart, HD, Lowes, etc. The cover lasted only two years, shed flakes of color, and wherever it touched gelcoat, rubrail or window plastic, it left scratches. I don't think it was the plastic material, but the grit and dirt that was lodged inbetween the fabric and the boat. Wind blows it in, but rain can't wash it off.
Since I had to park the boat under the canopy of two huge oak trees, (before I put the boat in the water full time) I thought the tarp would keep the boat cleaner. It did only slightly but was a lot more trouble than it was worth. When the boat is out of the water on the trailer at home for maintenance or travel, I do not cover it. Just go out once per week and sweep it clean then rinse off. A lot less trouble and expense.