Page 3 of 4
New chart with prop pitches
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 8:12 pm
by Robert
The pitches look good to me. One item, I think the Tohatsu 40/50 with 1.85 gears should use that Tohatsu 4 blade 7.1 pitch prop.
..
General rule of thumb for 50hp pushing a Mac26 ask for the prop that would be recommended to push a huge houseboat, and it will be right for the Mac26 also.
..
IIRC:
Solas 4x11.8x9 pitch prop was 6400 RPMs at WOT with the Suzuki and full ballast. It would go to about 6800 RPM (where the Suzuki DF50's torque seems to fall off) with the ballast empty and the boat lightly loaded. The Suzuki sales rep and my Suzuki Dealer told me that the DF50 would be very happy to run 7000 RPM 24/7 without any excess wear or worries, so I propped for the max RPM when ballast is full. (The Suzuki over-rev limiter kicks in at 7250 RPM in case the prop is out of the water) Also note: in disorganized choppy 5 foot waves the Suzuki with this prop would WOT at variable RPM 5800 to 6200 and a top speed below 13 mph. Compare that for outrunning storms vs. 20mph empty and 16.7mph full ballast of a smooth as glass lake with the same prop. This is the prop I most highly recommend. The slight ringing sound is at 1900 to 2100 RPM and is not very loud, but noticeable, this prop is cast under pressure so it has a crystal like structure that is stiff enough to ring like a wine glass if struck or run at resonance of 2000 RPM.
..
Honda BF50 has the same prop RPM as the Suzuki so the same pitch prop...
Same prop revs?
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 10:20 am
by Terry
Robert:
Given that the Suzi & Honda have the same RPM range for the same prop for comparison, what influence does the difference in gear ratio have:
i.e. Honda 2.09:1 Suzi 2.27:1 it appears that the Honda would have a slightly lower rpm at WOT than the Suzi with the same prop but the Suzi may have stronger low end torque. I hit 6200 @ WOT with the Solas 4 X 11.4 X 9 lightly loaded no ballast. is the .4 difference in diameter responsible for the difference in rpm?
How do you want your O/B controls to be lead to transom?
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 10:27 am
by tidalwave
I found that for a Merc Bigfoot a console throttle control is probably a waste of time and money.
You have to cut an rectangular hole in the bottom of the 26

pedestal housing and then lead the cables along the cockpit floor to the motor.
If I were to do it over again...I probably would ask some of the forum members which O/B brand controls allow the cables to be run down the pedestal pipe, then back out along the side of the transom, then go with that brand of O/B.
It would have been much cheaper to simply bolt a standard Merc controller to the side of the console and lead the cables back.
Re: How do you want your O/B controls to be lead to transom?
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 12:18 pm
by Richard O'Brien
tidalwave wrote:I found that for a Merc Bigfoot a console throttle control is probably a waste of time and money.
I finally finished hooking up my Merc bigfoot 60. I could not alter the teleflex cables to fit the Mercury commander 3000 control box, without cutting the aforementioned rectangle. I opted for down the binnacle tube. I do wish Teleflex would make some special cable adapters for Merc boxes. I used my old Uflex b184 control box with Teleflex 3300 TFXtreme cables. It seems to work great. I highly recommend the xtreme cables. Duane Dunn suggested them once, and I am most grateful. The Uflex Mercury adapters won't do you any good. You have to get the Teleflex Xtreme about 12-13 ft. long with their Mercury Engine side adapters.
Not At All
Posted: Wed May 11, 2005 1:23 pm
by Divecoz
Not at all sure how they did it but OxBow Marine promised it would all be routed inside the pedistal pipe on our 05

with 50 hp bf . I guess I will see this weekend . I hope anyways

Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 4:30 pm
by joncon17
I think I have found a happy medium 2005 Yamaha F60 HP HIGH THRUST 4-STROKER;
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/pr ... specs.aspx
Fresh water flushes no engine run for saltwater wash. Weight is acceptable 237lb, just under 1000cc and with the HT package larger lower unit & prop may do the trick. Boat (26M) loaded for cursing port to port Mexico mainland coast hugging. Parts/service available S of border most major marinas Ive checked yeah sure they would have told me they had parts for a 1932 German Blimp if I asked them but what the heck should still do what I want to run from weather in medium seas. What you guys think

Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 4:45 pm
by Moe
The Yamaha
F60 is not a high-thrust motor. It is the "small foot" with 1.85:1 gearing. The page you linked to are these lower thrust motors.
The Yamaha
T60 is the high-thrust with 2.33:1 gearing and 14" diameter prop capability, weighing 255 lbs. It is the one you want on a Mac. The High Thrust models are on
this page.
--
Moe
Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 5:12 pm
by joncon17
U right Moe I cut & pasted wrong T is the one, what do you think overall?
Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 5:32 pm
by Moe
It's the same motor as the 60HP Mercury BigFoot EFI we have on our Whaler, except Yamaha probably uses different fuel injection. We're very happy with ours. The only thing I don't understand is why Yamaha only puts a 10A alternator on it.
--
Moe
Evinrude ETEC 90
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 6:48 pm
by Spirit of the Wind
Over the years, this board has been a fantastic source of information. Based on this thread, I'm having an ETEC 90 installed with a 14 x 11 prop. 320 pounds vs. my Merc 50's 224 pounds but 40 more horses. My Merc 50 started at 21 mph in 1996. As I added all the toys, speed dropped gradually to 13 mph tops. I pick up the boat Friday. I'm really interested in seeing how the performance improves.
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 7:04 pm
by DLT
Did you reinforce the transom? how?
Evinrude ETEC 90
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 7:21 pm
by Spirit of the Wind
When the dealer originally installed the Merc 50, he mounted it on a 1/4 inch aluminum plate the size of the splash well. The Evinrude dealer is convinced that this is sufficient for the 90 and the bolt patterns match, so I'm sticking with it. I've read horror stories of this board about transom damage, so I'll keep a close eye on it and increase speed progressively. I'll have to curb my usual enthusiasm since the etec can go to full speed right out of the crate with no slow speed break in period.
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 7:25 pm
by argonaut
My two cents:
You want to sail, not sit around waiting for parts or mechanics to arrive.
Frank, Dive & Moe say Yammy, and that's what looks like parts are easiest to get at least around here. Yamaha seems to like people to be able to keep these running,I've seen videotapes for 'em, and mechanics work on 'em.
Three marine mechanics I called were real helpful till I said "Honda". The parts are harder to get, consequently cost more too. I can walk into any boat store and get Yammy parts.
Find out what you can get serviced easily.
High or low maintenance, with women and boats you want... well you get the idea.
FT60
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 7:28 pm
by edurbin
hey Joncon17,
you'll like the Yamaha. I have that motor on the 26M. Very satisfied with overall setup and big prop performance.
For the throttle controller, the standard Yamaha unit had to be mounted on the side of the 26M pedestal. It works well enough, with the cables having to be routed into a hole cut into the side of the stainless pedestal tube.
Also - I needed to invert the L brackett on the motor so that Rogers steering linkage would function better. Can take a few pics if you need them.
Craig
Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 2:13 am
by joncon17
Edurbin, appreciate it mate post whatever pic's you have on your rig. Are you boating fresh or saltwater down under? I got to see a little of Sidney on an R&R when I was in the Army about 1998, didnt want to leave. I would love to revisit & sail that coast.