My 2 1980s Vintage Mac 25s

[NavySailor]

Took about 5 mins of nursing, but we got there. Engine run successfully completed!!

[Tomfoolery]

I can't tell from the pic, but is there a cooling water pee stream coming from under the power head? If not, and if there's supposed to be, look for a clogged hose and/or nozzle.

But I'm happy for you. One less thing to sweat.

Engine - sails - trailer. The big three.

[NavySailor]

Yup - it pi$$ the whole time!

Just 1 more thing on the motor. How do you control it with such a small handle from inside the cockpit?

[Tomfoolery]

I think most folks set the friction brake on the steering so it'll stay put unless you want it to move, and just run the engine straight forward, with steering through the rudder alone. Set the throttle friction, too, so you can give it some throttle and leave it for the most part. At least that's what I used to do when I had a similar boat.

[NavySailor]

Ok thanks!

Also-any idea where I can find a manual for the engine? I don't even know if it needs gas or gas and oil.

[Tomfoolery]

I'm pretty sure that's a 2-stroke. The others I've seen online that look like it are 2-stroke, and are often parenthetically referred to as Tohatsu. You need the manual, if for no other reason than to get things like spark plug gap and fuel/oil mix ratio.

[Tomfoolery]

Here's a link to the manual for that OB.

http://www.nissanmarine.com/tech_talk/o ... nuals.html

Slide down to the 2-stroke section, and there are two choices for 5 hp - internal fuel tank, and external. Gear lube and mix oil specs are in there, too.

[Catigale]

Uh...that doesn't look right. I'd replace that bent one. You might be able to straighten it, but I'd be worried about fatigue on that piece.

Just straighten it with pliers, then go over it up close looking for cracks where it was bent.

The verniers are in tension and there is a lot of metal there to take the load.

[NavySailor]

Just straighten it with pliers, then go over it up close looking for cracks where it was bent.

The verniers are in tension and there is a lot of metal there to take the load.

that's what I thought too - will do. thx!

[81venture]

That is a 2 stroke...hopefully you added oil to the gas before you ran it...

The correct ration is 50:1...I usually run them an on the heavier side when mixing...add a "little extra"

For the Sark plug the Proper gap is 0.8 - 0.9 mm, (32-35 thousandths of an inch) or a "tight" 0.035 inches


Nice work...thats a good motor
I have worked on one or two before

Dave

[81venture]

Thanks - and I totally understand. I've been out before, just not on my own 25' rig.

I've got PFDs, a horn, flares, anchor with 7' chain and a bunch of line, didn't check how much, but quite a bit (Potomac is just sludgy sand/mud), got the radio but it's inop - so it's useless. Sounds goofy but worst case, it's the Potomac in Northern Virginia - cell phones work just fine for a 1 time check-out.

Also - can anyone point me to a DIY on how to fix these uglies on my bow? It's above the waterline so I'd like to patch them up.


THANKS!!!

Buy a can of this....it's what I use for small repairs and it works great....no need to go to "Worst Marine" and pay their high prices...this is just fine right here
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 167019_0_0_

Then I'll use a combination of both Flat and Gloss spray paint to "feather" it in so it can't be seen after I've sanded it down...

If you have questions regarding kicking glass let me know...I work with it a lot

Dave

[NavySailor]

That is a 2 stroke...hopefully you added oil to the gas before you ran it...

The correct ration is 50:1...I usually run them an on the heavier side when mixing...add a "little extra"

For the Sark plug the Proper gap is 0.8 - 0.9 mm, (32-35 thousandths of an inch) or a "tight" 0.035 inches


Nice work...thats a good motor
I have worked on one or two before

Dave

The tank in the motor already had gas/oil in it. At least I hope it had oil in it! LOL. In any case I didn't add anything. I'll give her a proper tune up later.

[81venture]

I like to mix the oil a tad, and just a tad, on the heavier side... figure a little extra can't hurt, but not too much...if it says 4.5 oz then I add 4.8

I just finished rebuilding a 1986 Tohatsu M8A which is a discontinued motor...needed a water pump impeller...no such animal available...took one from another small outboard and used the dremel and a razor and she pees great now....

So you can do this man....buy your paint yet?

lets go sailor

[NavySailor]

No paint today - lots of cleaning. LOTS

While scrubbing the outside of the boat I discovered the PO did a partial paint job on the hull. I altered the contrast on this but if you look half way up the cabin you can see a slight change in color. Boneheads...


Also - how many of you got rid of the foam blocks and didn't replace them? Those 28 year old blocks are funky and they smell. Some animal made a nest in them in the V-berth. I kept waiting for something to jump out at me.


Finally - I took out the galley. Not sure what to do with that. Can anyone point me to some useful ideas? This hose was underneath. Does it run to a potable water tank or is that a drain? I'm guessing a drain.
[

Going to West Marine to buy bottom paint tomorrow. Should I sand the old anti-fouling or just paint this one on top? If on top, can I add multple layers until it is all uniform and even?

Before and after photos to follow.

Thanks all!!

[Steve K]

Navy Sailor,

BTW, I was in the Navy for a few years (HT-3).

Windows:
The originals are the four. Many people have replaced with a single one on each side.
I like the Rudder Craft windows myself, but you may do a little better, price wise, to get the Plexi locally.

I replaced my 26D windows again, just a couple months ago and have found a great method. This makes it easier and better. I've had Macs for years and this is, by far, the best way to do new windows in one.

http://thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html

I used one row of tape and sealed with #795 sealant. This is important. You can't use just any silicone or other sealant (like 5200) for this job. However, I do think just using the tape by itself would work just fine. This is the key to getting a good, all around seal.
Also, do not tighten the screws much. Just snug will do and I wouldn't have used them at all, if the RC windows weren't pre-drilled.

The tape is pricy, but it is amazing stuff and holds evenly around the window, instead of just four screws, that create pressure points, causing the plastic to crack eventually.

I actually mounted my mic clip with a small piece of this tape, over a month ago and it's holding just fine.

Feel free to question.

Best Breezes,
Steve K.