New owner Qs

[Chinook]

G'day all!
5. Steering...when under sail it seems the steering is very very heavy, particularly when trying to tack under low speed...again is that a normal issue with a trailer sailer/macgregor or something that I need to look at....they seem fine and workable out of water

Most of the discussion on this thread has focused on rig related issues. Regarding the question about heavy steering, most X boats have had their steering linkage replaced at some point in their history. Even if yours was replaced once already, it may need attention once again. The original steering linkage was vulnerable to corrosion and cable problems. BWY offers a steering linkage kit, complete with installation instructions. If the boat steers noticeably hard, especially while under power, the problem is most likely due to a steering linkage problem, and replacement would be in order.

[Hamin' X]

The backstay is there. It goes down to a pigtail that is used in place of a boom topping lift, then it continues into a split backstay. Part of the confusion was that Tom was calling the topping lift an outhaul.

~Rich

[tom]

The backstay is there. It goes down to a pigtail that is used in place of a boom topping lift, then it continues into a split backstay. Part of the confusion was that Tom was calling the topping lift an outhaul.

~Rich

Hi Rich, youre absolutely right...sorry for the wrong terminology...so what I'm missing is the split backstay hence my confusion...have already asked the previous owner for this and if not avail, then will need to make my own...

[tom]

Thanks again all for the very valuable input...so I'm going to fix the backstay issue by installing the missing split backstay, as to furler headsail/forestay, should this be connecting directly to the mast or is it ok to connect to the line (which then feeds to back of cockpit through inmast track)?

Re steering, I have inspected the linkage and it seems good, so I guess its just the drag of the two rudders under sail and engine attached (though raised)...I'll live with this, maybe upsize the wheel a bit...
Incidently, what is the height of a typical M26 mast? Mine seems to be a couple of feet longer than the loa of the boat

I've one more question, re the water ballast system...in the manual it states that I should be operating the valve next to the air vent valve to allow water in, however I was told to use the valve located at the rear of the yacht to flood the ballast tank...is that the proper way of flooding the tank or do I need to do both?

As to rest it seems that its the way it is..ie the centerboard working as it should and mainsheet with no traveller...I've seen a good mod on the traveller so will look at installing this

[yukonbob]

Re steering, I have inspected the linkage and it seems good, so I guess its just the drag of the two rudders under sail and engine attached (though raised)...

Theres your problem…the extra weight of pushing the ob back and forth can put a lot of strain on the steering. Get the quick disconnect from BWY or figure somehting else out.

I've one more question, re the water ballast system...in the manual it states that I should be operating the valve next to the air vent valve to allow water in, however I was told to use the valve located at the rear of the yacht to flood the ballast tank...is that the proper way of flooding the tank or do I need to do both?

Open both otherwise it's like trying to fill a pop bottle you just get "glug glug glug"…until you put a hole in the other end then you've release the pressure and the water can rush in. Just make sure to close both when you're done filling.

[tom]

Open both otherwise it's like trying to fill a pop bottle you just get "glug glug glug"…until you put a hole in the other end then you've release the pressure and the water can rush in. Just make sure to close both when you're done filling.

Will do...so open the air vent (stbd side of the step), the water fill plug (next to it) and the rear valve (back of transom) to fill and then close the three once filled?

[Boblee]

Don't remember what an mast looks like but could that be an mast reworked to fit
Sounds to me you need to find another and see how it's set up and go from there.

[Tomfoolery]

The location of fill/drain plugs and gates and the vent depends on the year of the boat. Mine is a '99, has the vent in the bow, and a gate valve (RV blackwater valve) in the stern. Nothing under the step.

The backstay terminates on a tang on the starboard stern, per the pic below. I've never seen a split backstay on an , but yours may have been customized differently. If it's split, there's another tang on the port side.



Oh, and the mast of an is 27 ft., and on the it's 30 ft., both of which are, of course, a fair bit longer than the boat. It also happens to end where the propeller is with the engine tilted all the way up, so I put a light board on the lower unit with stop/turn/tail/side markers for travel further than around town, and at night.

[Hamin' X]

Open both otherwise it's like trying to fill a pop bottle you just get "glug glug glug"…until you put a hole in the other end then you've release the pressure and the water can rush in. Just make sure to close both when you're done filling.

Will do...so open the air vent (stbd side of the step), the water fill plug (next to it) and the rear valve (back of transom) to fill and then close the three once filled?

By saying to open both, Bob is referring to the gate valve at the transom and the vent under your step. I would not mess with the other valve, as it has been reported to be troublesome. The threads can become corroded and the sealing plate can become warped, preventing a good seal. Some owners have completely sealed the opening from below. There are several threads that discuss this subject. Here is a page from your manual describing the setup:



~Rich

[yukonbob]

Never even knew there was 2 in the X. What the heck is that for anyways?

[Russ]

so open the air vent (stbd side of the step), the water fill plug (next to it) and the rear valve (back of transom) to fill and then close the three once filled?

Water fill plug? I'm not familiar with the X "fill" plug inside the cabin, but the picture Rich posted above indicates the X had another valve. I agree, I wouldn't mess with that one. The transom gate valve works well.
There should be an air vent (to prevent the glug glug glug) in the cabin and a big gate valve on the transom that is just below the water line.
To fill the ballast, open the large gate valve and remove the air plug to vent the tank. Once full, close them all to keep water from sloshing out.

Draining the tank can be done under power (with calm seas and fast speed) by opening the gate valve and the vent to allow the water to escape. Close them before slowing the boat.

Your mast is not OEM, but looks to be a nice mast with internal halyards. Without a backstay, the whole mast rig has nothing to keep it from falling forward except maybe the weight of the boom and main sheet. You need to correct this ASAP.
The photo below shows that you are missing the split backstay (red lines). Again, not standard OEM backstay, but in my opinion a better backstay than the stock one that is off center. The previous owner had it rigged this way once, so he must have these cables.

The green line is what I think you are calling the outhaul. You are describing an outhaul correctly. It attaches to the sail and pulls it towards the end of the boom. However, it should attach to the boom, not the backstay. You need both, an outhaul that is fixed to the boom, and a topping lift that holds the boom up when the sail is down. Easy fix.


So that leaves you with the forestay issue.

I assume this tang is the top of the mast with a cable coming from it. It's a very nice looking swagged on fitting. It appears to go into the furler extrusion. Does this run all the way through to the base of the furler drum? If so, it should terminate on the bow plate.

Then I see another cable with 2 crimped fittings that looks more like the original Mac shrouds attached to one side of tang. This is looks like OEM fittings and hardware. The cable attached to the tang looks nicely crimped and is probably the forestay.

Lines:
Black and yellow looks like a spare halyard. Spinaker?
White with black appears to be a jib halyard. This would be used to allow you to tension the jib and remove the jib from the furler track. Looks like a normal setup if the wire forestay attached to the tang actually attaches to the foredeck correctly.

--Russ

[tom]

Righto, success is imminent Found the backstay (which is a split system) and its connection points both sides of transom.

Russ, you're absolutely correct as to the rig setup (backstay, forestay and jib), its all clear now...the backstay is as you describe, the forestay has the furler on it plus the jib halyard connects to top drum...it was tight when I tried to unfurl the headsail so will need to investigate this further...I understand now that the tension for the forestay/furler is adjusted through the shrouds...

The mistake with the backstay is that the outhaul is connected to backstay and I could not find the bottom bits...now all clear and I will reconfigure it as described.

I presume that instead of simply connecting to the backstay, I would need to run a new topping lift all the way (from boom, to top of mast and down to cockpit)?

Re the ballast valves..yes I have two flood valves and one vent valve...I have operated my internal flood valve but it doesnt look very inspiring so its probably a good thing to seal it from bottom so that its not a problem in the future and only use the transom gate valve

Thank you all once again...this has been very very useful

[sunshinecoasting]

Hi Tom,

Agree with all comment above re rigging. However no one has offered the most obvious reason for your tight steering once the boat is moving, this is most likely due to the rudders not seating all the way down, there should be a rope on each rudder that holds them down in place, if either rudder lifts just slightly from forward movement you are trying to steer with a rudder way behind the pivot point which is extremely difficult to do and will break your steering eventually, the rudders MUST be down and vertical to the pivot point (rudder bracket). I also notice you still have the original rudder brackets, these were a week point of the early X so check them for cracks or fractures, after 98 they replaced them with heavier solid stainless brackets that were much more stable. BTW, I never undo my motor while sailing and notice almost no extra effort on the wheel, I dont know why anyone releases the motor linkage while sailing?? What happens if you need your motor in a hurry?

Cheers, Den.

[yukonbob]

Hi Tom,

Agree with all comment above re rigging. However no one has offered the most obvious reason for your tight steering once the boat is moving, this is most likely due to the rudders not seating all the way down, there should be a rope on each rudder that holds them down in place, if either rudder lifts just slightly from forward movement you are trying to steer with a rudder way behind the pivot point which is extremely difficult to do and will break your steering eventually, the rudders MUST be down and vertical to the pivot point (rudder bracket). I also notice you still have the original rudder brackets, these were a week point of the early X so check them for cracks or fractures, after 98 they replaced them with heavier solid stainless brackets that were much more stable. BTW, I never undo my motor while sailing and notice almost no extra effort on the wheel, I dont know why anyone releases the motor linkage while sailing?? What happens if you need your motor in a hurry?

Cheers, Den.

You honestly don't notice the 200 lb motor flopping back and forth pulling the steering when heeled? You must have the forearms of Popeye With the Ob attached to the steering linkage its a hands on the wheel at all times...without it's one finger steering and in lighter winds the boat will hold course for quite a while with no input. You can even install a $1 auto pilot

[Russ]

Tom,

After studying your photos, the only thing wrong was the missing backstay and you have that almost resolved. Great news!
That mast actually looks to be a very nice one with some nifty features like internal haylards and well crimped rigging.

You could run a topping lift up and back down. Some folks have. Mine is much simpler.

Here you can see my topping lift. The black/white line that comes from the top of the mast with 2 clips. In the photo, the lower clip is attached allowing the boom to drop down. The upper clip (below the flag) attaches when the sail is down to get the boom high above our heads. Simple.



As for your steering, a larger wheel is probably not a solution. If it's stiff, something is wrong. I think you mentioned the weight of the motor while tilted. That would explain it. It will definitely pull the wheel when it wants to fall to one side.
As mentioned, Blue Water Yachts makes a nifty quick release. This allows the motor to be disconnected from the steering and remain centered.
I only attach the motor to the steering when docking for added steering control. Otherwise, I keep it fixed in the center position.
Link to BWY http://bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%20312 ... eering.htm
Best $129 you can spend in my opinion.

Here's a great video Jim made demonstrating the operation of the linkage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToUB-ox3 ... ature=plcp

Here's a pic of Rich's installed on his X


I've seen others create simple quick disconnects also. Disconnecting the motor while tilted is a must in my opinion.

--Russ