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Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 7:57 am
by Rolf
Bobby T,
Was down at Amber picking up my cash for the old tldi 50 --$2800, what a rip! I'm out over 2 grand after just 2 years because of my original decision to get the "safe" 50hp. Brad told me those aluminum plate we got for $200 are going up to 250 or 300 because of the rising costs of materials everywhere due to building boom.
Craig,
I trolled at 5 knots over ten miles using less than 2 gallons, if that. The Tohatsu has the lowest idling gas usage of all the 90s, 0.15 gph.
Rolf

Engine size

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 11:43 am
by bill barchard
A 25 HP engine will not allow you to remove the water ballast. I also recommend a 4 stock 50 HP or larger. A 70 Hp wouls be better according to my calculations. Above 70 HP the performance does not increase the boats water speed much---unless you go all the way to 140 Hp that some have. The problem off course id that a 70 Hp and a 90 Hp wiegh the same.

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 1:46 pm
by Bobby T.-26X #4767
bill,
don't know where you're getting your info...
i will race any MacX with my '04 Tohatsu 90hp (315#) vs. a Suzuki 70hp (335).
my 2-stroke has more torque, more power, and is lighter vs. the heavy slug 4-stroke.
it's apples and oranges.
what's amazing is the smoothness at slow speeds & noise level that i experience.
the difference is insignificant vs. the '02 Suzuki 50hp 4-stroke that i traded in.
but now my top end is 26-28.
you don't get that with a Suzuki 70.
http://www.tohatsu.com/outboards/90tldi.html
be careful what you say on this BB or the wolves will be after you.

150 nm range

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 2:05 pm
by waternwaves
Or,

If you have to have the 150 nm range.....
You could just put in the 18 gal aluminum perfect fit tanks on each side, on your X boat, and be done with the problem and only fill them completely when you take long cruises..

carrying 36 gallons in fixed tank and 12 in portable.... definitely gives assurance when traveling Dixon passage...

The fixed tanks fit perfectly flush behind the BWY locker covers.... and only a small amount of glass is removed.. I sure like them.

Darren

Posted: Sun Feb 20, 2005 3:55 pm
by Duane Dunn, Allegro
The Tohatsu 90 will without a doubt outrun either mac (X or M) with the Suzuki 70. It has 20 more ponies and less weight. The even race will be the Tohatsu 90 and the Suzuki 115. Billy will leave everyone behind with his 140.

In the Suzuki line the 60 and the 70 have the same motor base. The 90 and the 115 likewise the same with different tuning, the 140 is a bored out 115.

In the Tohatsu line the 70 and the 90 share the same block.

At the lower end, the Mercury Big Foot or the Yamaha High Thrust share the same base motor in the 50 and the 60.

Re: Engine size

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 3:53 pm
by lee308
bill barchard wrote:A 25 HP engine will not allow you to remove the water ballast. I also recommend a 4 stock 50 HP or larger.
Sorry sir, my 25 4 stroke will easily dump the ballast. Its a good bit lighter than the 50 and smaller. I can also remove it myself using my back. I sail only and only sail with 2 onboard. And it only cost $2300 new. I have a "heavy boat" prop and on calm water will do 10 knots gps w/o ballast.
Its been on my X since 2002 and never regreted it. But, if you want motorboat performance, get a bigger one.
Lee

what kind of transom re-inforcement for larger motors

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 4:31 pm
by tidalwave
I am curious as how to reinforce the transom on an :macm: to accomodate a larger (>50hp) motor. I noticed 'transom support' bar(s) in West Marine...which is a thick aluminum flat bar which extends from one top motor anchor bolt hole to the other. Does this actually increase the transom's strength or is it just a gimmick?

Some discussions on this site have talked about laying up more fibreglas
inside the hull on the transom...is this the typical way to strengthen the boat?

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:04 pm
by Duane Dunn, Allegro
Bluewater Yachts in Seattle is authorized by the factory to install the Suzuki 70 hp motor on the M. Both the boats they had at the boatshow this year had 70's on them. The boat does not require any transom reinforcement to handle the 70 hp. The factory warranty, not a dealer warranty applies to all M's they sell with 70 hp motors.

I talked with Todd at length about putting a 70hp on my X. He has done this before, and does not feel that the X transom requires any extra reinforcement for the 70 either. His main concern is about the hull itself. He indicated Roger also is not really concerned about the weight or power of the bigger motors on the transom, but feels that the boats should not be pushed faster than 25 knots due to the extra stress this puts on the hull. The layup schedule of the M has more layers than the X did and it's hull can better take the abuse possible with a larger motor. He also feels the boats handling characteristics become a problem above 25.

Under normal operating circumstances both models can easily handle bigger motors, it's those 'Oh Sh*t' moments (we've all had them, even with a 50 hp motor) when you realize you are going too fast for the conditions and the boat launches and takes a big pounding. It can handle these as the exception, but the big motors make the likelyhood of these events more frequent. While I'm sure all of us here would only operate the boat in a safe manner, they have to worry about the idiot who doesn't and then brings it back to factory for warranty work. This is why the stated horsepower allowed to keep the factory warranty is limited to 50 hp.

As far as the concern about the weight of the bigger motors flopping to the side when sailing this is a valid concern and is a bad thing. When the boat heels and the motor flops it induces lee helm, turning the boat away from the wind so it just catches more setting you up for knockdown. This is however easily addressed. Bluewater has an excellent steering arm system that allows you to disconnect the motor from the steering and keep it from flopping. It's a 5 second operation to connect or disconnect the steering.

Image

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:40 pm
by Mark Prouty
Slamjammer,

For your requirements, the Suzuki 4 stroke with EFI is the best choice in my opinion. I have a Suzuki and it is an excellent motor. It is a very quiet and reliable motor. A few extra bucks gives you a 6 year warranty.

You won't be blasting around with a 50hp but the boat is made to handle it. Why not take full advantage this boat's sailing/motoring capabilities. I promise you'll be happy with a 50hp Suzuki.

I have a feeling you'll regret not having the full power this boat is designed for. Get the 50 hp Suzuki 4 stroke.

perspective from a man with a 115 Suzuki on a 26X

Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:59 pm
by Frank C
Duane Dunn, Allegro wrote:. . . As far as the concern about the weight of the bigger motors flopping to the side when sailing this is a valid concern and is a bad thing. When the boat heels and the motor flops it induces lee helm, turning the boat away from the wind . . .
I'm not so sure this is unique to larger outboards, and I'm not so sure all larger outboards are prone to the problem. I think it is partially related to the engine mounting methods - mine has an engine riser and transom wedges. It does not flop to the side when sailing, and has never had such tendency. This is even in extreme conditions when the boat is heeling up to 30+ degrees.

Yet the steering is one-finger smooth and easy. Arena Yacht Sales in Alameda installed my Suzuki 60/70. I have occasionally taken time to disconnect the motor from the steering, but found no benefit.

In fact, its possible that the engine's mass within the rudder linkage system might add value when sailing .... Hmmmm. :o