Re: Baystar Steering, will this work?
Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:50 pm
Mark, I would think that because of the X's very different configuration, and the benefits that accrue from disconnecting the engine when sailing, I would personally choose the cylinder connection that substituted for the mechanical pushrod linkage, instead of the engine well solution.
I still maintain that you might be surprised at the improvement you could obtain by eliminating the simple swivel bolt linkages with zero play bushings, such as Heim (aircraft type) joints. On my M, besides the original rack and pinion play, that was eliminated with the Baystar helm and cylinder, the largest overall area of take-up play was negated by shimming, and tightening, the rudder pivot sleeves. My first fix tried to use CD's (DVD's actually) directly on each side of the blade, to dial out the gaps before snugging down the pivot bolts. I took a generous grant from 'Seahouse' and went to a fitted cut-out polyethylene sheet instead. that took a much higher bolting load which completely eliminated all the play in this fixture, yet still let the rudders raise and lower smoothly. Try that first before you shell out the bigger boat bucks for the fancy hydraulics!
The best forensics to do is to rigidly clam both blades straight, and together, then with a friend's assistance continually rocking the wheel side-to-side, feel every connection to ascertain where your worst 'gremlins' are.
Other posts here have beautifully illustrated the need to balance the boat with proper sail handling, so that the rudders, under most points of sail, are basically pointing straight, fore and aft, instead of ploughing through the water sideways, and reducing speed. Also, miss-alignment of either rudder to the other, will give you the feel of having too much play in your particular set-up.
It's like a dog chasing its tail...... it never ends!
I still maintain that you might be surprised at the improvement you could obtain by eliminating the simple swivel bolt linkages with zero play bushings, such as Heim (aircraft type) joints. On my M, besides the original rack and pinion play, that was eliminated with the Baystar helm and cylinder, the largest overall area of take-up play was negated by shimming, and tightening, the rudder pivot sleeves. My first fix tried to use CD's (DVD's actually) directly on each side of the blade, to dial out the gaps before snugging down the pivot bolts. I took a generous grant from 'Seahouse' and went to a fitted cut-out polyethylene sheet instead. that took a much higher bolting load which completely eliminated all the play in this fixture, yet still let the rudders raise and lower smoothly. Try that first before you shell out the bigger boat bucks for the fancy hydraulics!
The best forensics to do is to rigidly clam both blades straight, and together, then with a friend's assistance continually rocking the wheel side-to-side, feel every connection to ascertain where your worst 'gremlins' are.
Other posts here have beautifully illustrated the need to balance the boat with proper sail handling, so that the rudders, under most points of sail, are basically pointing straight, fore and aft, instead of ploughing through the water sideways, and reducing speed. Also, miss-alignment of either rudder to the other, will give you the feel of having too much play in your particular set-up.
It's like a dog chasing its tail...... it never ends!
