MacGregorSailors.com

I firmly believe in not fixing things that aint broke. I have a 2000 26X and the steering works great. However, my rack and pinion lost one of the bolts and almost came apart during a SCA. I lubed it, put it back together and I'm sure it will be fine. I've also dissassembled and lubed the end of the cable where it pushes the motor. I think this needs to be standard yearly maint.

As for quality of Macs, I think its just fine for what they cost. Not sure what's up with Paul's boat but it almost seems like it was sabotaged seeing as noone else reports issues like that. Sure, I wish I had a galvanized trailer too, but I did just buy a couple galvanized wheels and I have spraypainted the trailer a few times. Its a tradeoff...that was the trailer the boat came on...I'm not going to replace it unless its broke.

Keep in mind, you could easily pay 50-100 grand for a boat this size if you want 5 star luxury.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa wrote:I firmly believe in not fixing things that aint broke. I have a 2000 26X and the steering works great. However, my rack and pinion lost one of the bolts and almost came apart during a SCA. I lubed it, put it back together and I'm sure it will be fine. I've also dissassembled and lubed the end of the cable where it pushes the motor. I think this needs to be standard yearly maint.

Well I believe that for most things use until failure is acceptable- except if critical components are known to have a high failure rate I like the peace of mind to not wait until it breaks. In the aviation world we call this "high time" on critical components (like the engine) that have a nominal expected life before which they are replaced, even if they are working fine. The engineers usually come up with some life expectancy and the high time replacement is some factor less than that Other things are use until failure. I agree that somethings should be use until failure, but personally I would rather not experience a steering failure IF it is a known problem. I will check my rack and pinion for integrity as that is a problem. I will also double check all of my rudder bolts although Paul's seems to be a dealer installation issue (on numerous counts) as mentioned.

Dimitri-2000X-Tampa wrote:Keep in mind, you could easily pay 50-100 grand for a boat this size if you want 5 star luxury.

I don't really consider galvanized steel and a sturdy steering system 5 star luxury, but if the 26x had a galvanized trailer and heavy duty steering for 50-100 grand I wouldn't buy one no matter how much I like the Mac. I do think though that the difference between a galvanized trailer with 2 axles and a steel trailer with 1 axle would make the price increase fairly minimal and would be at least a nice option for the salt water types. There is always the option of replacing the trailer, adding axles, wheels, etc- but that is more costly for the consumer than substituing those things for the steel trailer.

Jeff S

I wouldn't go as far as to say there is a known design problem with the steering. Seems like most people have had failures because they (or the P.O.) didn't properly maintain the system. At least I'm speaking for the rack and pinion system on my 2000 model..I understand that some of the earlier models had poorer steering system quality. So, my point is that Macgregor did address the steering system in the earlier models and changed the design. Like with most things on this boat (and any boat), if you take care of it, then it will take care of you.

Also, it is a very difficult thing to estimate the failure rate since the people who have had failures will be much more vocal than the people who haven't had failures.

And finally, with the wide open nature of all the Mac linkages and such, it is not that difficult a proposition to rig up an emergency tiller with the boat hook lashed to the outboard. This would work fine in the inland and coastal areas that I take the boat in. If one were to take the boat on an offshore cruise, then I would want a better backup method...as well as a ton of spare parts....for a lot more stuff than just the steering.

As for the trailer, perhaps I was not clear with my point. I also would much rather have had a galvanized trailer and would have paid the price difference. But my point is that I chose the Mac for reasons other than the trailer quality. I'll keep spraying it down with rustoleum until it eventually gets too bad...but at least I am adding years to its life.

Lets make that 4.

Found another nut missing on our boat. The nut that attaches to the spreader bolt was missing on my inspection of the mast. Looked everything over and found this.

thats 4 nyloc nuts that either worked its way loose, or were not tightened together in the first place.

This is becoming a full time job!

Everything else appears OK now.

Paul

(However, my rack and pinion lost one of the bolts and almost came apart during a SCA. I lubed it, put it back together and I'm sure it will be fine. I've also dissassembled and lubed the end of the cable where it pushes the motor. I think this needs to be standard yearly maintainence)


Is this maintainence hard to do? I own a 2000 as well and have yet to service the steering componenents Rob[/list]

Rob M wrote: .... Is this maintainence hard to do? I own a 2000 as well and have yet to service the steering componenents Rob

Good question, Rob!
I've yet to touch the steering cable or linkage on my 2000 26X. Others have had more trouble though.

I think it's not possible to actually "maintain" the steering cable, as I understood it's not set up for regular lubing. Replacing it is not too difficult though, see this thread .

Its not too hard to do. Its probably even more important to periodically lube the end of the cable near the motor since that is more exposed to the elements. There is only one bolt at that side holding the whole thing together. Take that off, pull the thing apart, clean out the old grease and put new grease in. I think this is something that should be done every year or so.

At the other end of the cable, you need to take the plexiglass side off of the pedestal to get to the rack/pinion assembly. You need a hex tool (like an allen wrench) to undo the rack or tighten it up. I didn't take mine completely apart...just enough to cram some grease into the rack and then I tightened it back up again.

More written about it here.

A 26X customer was having problems with his steering cable. I suggested the Davis steering cable lubrication system (Davis # 420, # 421, and/or # 425). Basically a stainless steel nut with a zerk (grease) fitting, to lubricate your steering cable. It solved his problem.
West Marine and BoatU.S. numbers are model # 398750, # 394447, and # 176495.

Great information Thanks Rob M

I have worked on a lot of equipment and have not liked plastic nuts unless they are with plastic bolts. They are a good feature when you do not want somethinng else to break. It is the weekest link.
I do not know if you do a lot of rudder movement or are very hard on it. I recommend that you buy some of the nuts, take off the one that is bad. Inspect the old bolt for defects. CLEAN the old bolt. I like to use CO2 contact cleaner as it leaves no film. Then replace the bad plastic nut. Torque to spec's.

Inspect it often and replace when needed. If this happens to often, replace the bolt and put on a new plastic nut.

At this time I do not recommend changing the plastic nut with a metal one as I would rather have the nut loosen than break the rudder.

I haven't found where the plastic nuts are located yet.

Only nyloc nut and bolt I've missed was waiting for the mast raising pole to be attached, but boogied off somewhere.

Locktight or locnut? I used that stuff on the screws that secure my scope to the top of a rifle. I was banging away wondering why the pattern was so obscene to discover the scope dangling back and around. I used the loc stuff, and considered it a permanent weld job.

How did this old string pop up to the top?

Sloop John B wrote:...How did this old string pop up to the top?

Anytime a new message is posted on a thread it "Activates" the thread, moving it to the top of the list. Even the oldest thread on the board can be made new again. Sort of like Botox for chat rooms.

--Mark

Paul,

Your post has prompted me to inspect all nuts & bolts on my boat. Only one loose was one on the steering linkage to the outboard motor that is just finger tight. None of the bolt/locknut combos were loose.

I could not tell if you purchased your boat new from a dealer or second hand. If it came straight from the dealer, then they did a poor job putting the boat together for you. These lock nuts should not be backing off and were probably never tight in the first place. You might want to let the group know who you purchased it from, so future buyers may beware.

Since Jeff brought up the side issue of steering system on the Mac, I have a question/observation for the group. Is there really a problem with the cable or are some of us just forgeting to secure the rudders in the down position. Had the boat out twice a couple weeks ago, although I've had it going on four years, I'm still a beginner. The first day when I was motoring back to the ramp, I noticed that the steering was excessively tight but it was not because of the cable. I got lazy and had just dropped the rudders and they were trailing off at about a 45 degree angle causing the hard steering. The next day, I secured the rudders in the down position and had no problem. I guess when all else fails, read the manual.

97x still orig steering,so far only replaced headstay,kitchen pump,stove,cockpit cushions,some lightbulbs,battery(with cheap autozone) and about 2ft of wire in the bilge,not bad for inexpensive boat that s used on avg 2 wkend's a month and spends a least 1 week a year in fla.

Don't want to stir things up or anything, but it is amazing how we view things differently.
Lmclemore, from my experience with British made cars, they are the biggest heaps of rubbish ever born.
We had 2 options with cars. British or American. The American were expensive. I was born in '47. The 1st Family car was a Morris Minor, then a 53 Morris Oxford, then a 58 Austin Cambridge, then there was the Morris 1800's etc, and I left home.
The kids over the road went around in a '37 Chev, and that was better alround than the 58 Austin, and the kids up the road went around in a 55 Chev, and that was magic. Once you moved past the wheels, there was absolutley nothing similar between American and British.
My 1st car was a Maori Mustang Mk1 (Consul), then a Mk2 Zephyr, then a Morris 8. Then the Americans stuffed their market share by not making any more R Hand drives, and luckily for us, along can the 'rice wagons'. We finally had something decent, like a heater that worked, wipers that didn't stop going up hill, confortable seats, blinkers (not arms) and so the list goes on and on..
Later I did have a Triump 2000, then a Rover 3.5 and for a long time a Triumph Stag. Now there is a car. Brilliant design; absolute classic, flawless in every way till you came to the motor. Who.....who...... ever dreamed up that idiotic 3L v8. What a mechanical shambles. And i know, believe me. Some clown told me they glued 2 1500cc French Dolomite motors together to make a V8. I don't believe that for a minute, as that would have been a big improvement on what they used.
As they say, there is more than one side to every argument. When owning a Brit car is a necessity and not a hobby, one is inclined to see things in a different light. To those using them everyday they were Shxt.
Here's one for you. We use to rip the V6 out of the Ford Zodiac Mk4. It was a perfect power plant for a 2 stage Hamilton Jet Unit. Motor if I recall correctly was a German alloy Granada, in a Brit car. The only thing of any value.
You'r not too far off the mark Chip.
Cheers
Phillip