MacGregorSailors.com

Currie wrote:Hehe,

I fixed my daggerboard before last season, just repairing the six nasty chips (only one from me ) in the trailing edge with Marine-Tex. It's great stuff, but I'm almost afraid to pull it and see how it held up (I haven't yet). I reeeeally need to do Doug's (parrothead's) PVC mod at some point. We'll see soon if it's going to be this year.

~Bob

Patrice FERRAULT wrote:Hello,
I am a new 26M (2004) Mac Gregor Sailor, and I just lost my daggerboard in rough weather last week (How can this happen: no grounding, no warning, the board just disappeared !?!).
Before considering making a new one, like I understand many of you did, I would like to buy a manufactured one.
Anybody can help me to find a source, preferably in Europe, otherwise in the USA ?
Thank you for your help

Highlander wrote:

Patrice FERRAULT wrote:Hello,
I am a new 26M (2004) Mac Gregor Sailor, and I just lost my daggerboard in rough weather last week (How can this happen: no grounding, no warning, the board just disappeared !?!).
Before considering making a new one, like I understand many of you did, I would like to buy a manufactured one.
Anybody can help me to find a source, preferably in Europe, otherwise in the USA ?
Thank you for your help

I,ll lay u odd,s that ur D/B up-haul & safety lines failed when I pulled my D/B when I was getting her Bot painted for this spring so as I could also paint up inside the D/B trunk about 26" I discoved my up-haul line was badly frayed right at where it came out the top of the D/B & the safety line was also badly frayed at the midway point my boat is 2008 so I,m assuming I would have met the same fate if I had not installed new lines this yr , unfortunately when I pulled the D/B I also discovered it badly damaged approx 4" up from the bottom for appox 4-6" hole in the front of it appon trying to figure out how that happened , I remember once pulling the boat onto the trl & she came to an abrupt stop then remembered my D/B was still down 2' never thought no more of it but as my boat is very heavily loaded & with ballast still in it would not have taken much force to do that damage the D/B is very flimsy the damaged area was only about 1/16" thick
as I did not have the means or time this spring to repair it I had it repaired & also had the PVC mod done at the same time cost me about as much as a new D/B but now my old one is much stronger



I did the load the boat on the trailer with the board down , I need to pull it out and have a look, all seemed good, but can not see much with the board in the trunk. Not that I am looking for more work.

J

BOAT wrote:

Currie wrote:Hehe,

I fixed my daggerboard before last season, just repairing the six nasty chips (only one from me ) in the trailing edge with Marine-Tex. It's great stuff, but I'm almost afraid to pull it and see how it held up (I haven't yet). I reeeeally need to do Doug's (parrothead's) PVC mod at some point. We'll see soon if it's going to be this year.

~Bob

Ahoy Captain Curry!

Have not heard from you for a long time !

Can you explain the "parrot head pvc" mod?

Also, if anyone can also explain to me how they add the 55 lbs of lead to the daggerboard that would be very helpful too! Please let us know how that is done.

J

Hi Mark
here,s the link
http://macgregorsailors.com/modt/index.php?view=1095

Don,t do what I did , I thought instead of only doing the top 20-24" trailing edge I,ll do 48" down & make it a lot stronger wrong found out the D/B would only go 1FT down the D/B trunk and jam as I discovered the D/B trunk is tapered & gets narrower as it goe,s down , so had to take off the extra 24" on the lower trailing edge but what I did do to the top 24" is flare it out to a smooth flush surface so as I do not have the rounded bump on the top trailing edge

Thanks

Highlander wrote:Plug the D/B fill it with sand at no cost & try it & see if it work,s for u , if not un-plug it & flush the sand out ?

J

BOAT wrote:I'm sort of leary of putting iron in salt water.

I was thinking of lead - lead does not corrode in salt water, but what kind of lead? Am I supposed to melt the lead and pour it into the DB??

C Buchs wrote:

BOAT wrote:I'm sort of leary of putting iron in salt water.

I was thinking of lead - lead does not corrode in salt water, but what kind of lead? Am I supposed to melt the lead and pour it into the DB??

Do you think you could get some #7-1/2 (2.3mm/0.09 inch diamter) lead shot into your dagger board? Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Magnum-Lea ... =lead+shot

If it works, you can pour it out, melt it and pour it back in.

Jeff

BOAT wrote:

C Buchs wrote:

BOAT wrote:I'm sort of leary of putting iron in salt water.

I was thinking of lead - lead does not corrode in salt water, but what kind of lead? Am I supposed to melt the lead and pour it into the DB??

Do you think you could get some #7-1/2 (2.3mm/0.09 inch diamter) lead shot into your dagger board? Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Magnum-Lea ... =lead+shot

If it works, you can pour it out, melt it and pour it back in.

Jeff

HMMMM, that looks interesting Jeff - so a number 7 is a 1/2 inch round ball? Is that right? That might be a good idea because I can put a plug in the bottom with a 1/4 inch hole in it so the water drains out without letting the lead balls fall out of the dagger board. Hmmmm that might work - and 50 bucks for 25 pounds - that means I could add 50 pounds to the dagger board for 100 bucks! That's not bad!

50 pounds down in the end of the dagger board would be as much as 300 pounds up on the deck rail according to Tom's calculations - that's probably almost 5 degrees of heel! (Need Tomfoolery to check me out on this with his fancy calculator).

BOAT wrote:Need Tomfoolery to check me out on this with his fancy calculator.