We're happy we went with the lighter color. It does require a bit more maintanence to keep clean than something dark, but since our's doesn't live outdoors 24/7 in a slip (stored covered on the trailer) It's not a problem. It still keeps the black / white theme of the boat without heat problems.
BWY stock color is Black, which I feel is terrible. My friend Ray (who works for BWY) has had black on his X's and now his M. When I was shopping for mine I went down to look at his in his slip at the BWY dock. It was a cool, partly sunny day up here in the NW at the time and it only took sitting inside for a minute or two to decide a black enclosure was a bad idea. It quickly got hot in even our meager sun and was worse with the BWY enclosure as it has no opening windows with screens. Your only choice for air is to remove a panel which then gives you less protection.
We often motor on sunny but rough days with the enclosure zipped up to stay dry and our light fabric let's us stay comfortable rather than cook. Because of the Dowsar's zip open windows you can strategically open a upper corner for air yet still be protected.
I think if I were to do it again I would go darker, but not black. We have an over boom awning for the X (surplus from a Mac cat given to us free by BWY when we bought the boat) in the standard pacific blue and as common as the color is it seems like a good mix between dirt hiding ability and heat rejection. I'd probably choose that as it would match our mainsail cover and genoa protection stripe.
I can't help but think that in hot southern areas keeping the mainsail wrapped up in a black sail cover also must shorten the life of the sail fabric as it cooks all day every day.
Full Enclosures ? ? ? ?
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Duane Dunn, Allegro
- Admiral
- Posts: 2459
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:41 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Bellevue, Wa '96 26x, Tohatsu 90 TLDI and Plug In Hybrid Electric drive
- Contact:
-
waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
A few facts about the BWY full enclosure for the 96x,
IT stays on in 70 mph gusts, when I was worried about the boat trailer moving past the chocks. (I was out of town, and had a few things drying things in the cockpit.) However my boom tarp now looks like confetti.
the connector (canvas between dodger and bimini) and bimini Zippers need to be replaced/Resewn with qty=2, two way zippers for added convenience setting the main sheet. ( I have not located the correct zipper yet. Something like 4 sleeping bag zippers should work)
The only wind I dont like with the enclosure up is the downwind leg. (however I do not have an easily adjustable backstay)
and a question I have for those with removable window panels...
how do you like the zipper attachments vs. the velco attachments for Windows/screens. Secondly (this is to duane mostly.... Are your windows as close to water tight as a non removable panel. I was er.... suprised at how much water tries to come into the cockpit when the wind is blowind the rain sideways........ I have looked at adding this feature to my BWY enclosure. But I think I only want the two door panels and the back to have bug screens. I have noted the bee problem out here in the summer, But I hang a bee trap on the pulpit and haven't had any further in boat problems...(had enough with the nests between the hull and liner, and in the mast)
I use a towel to prevent main sheet chafe.
Interesting........tho
I haven't had anyone complain that it is too hot yet....
I'll have to try sailing in nicer weather......... now if I could just get more time off during the 1 1/2 months of summer and still have wind.
IT stays on in 70 mph gusts, when I was worried about the boat trailer moving past the chocks. (I was out of town, and had a few things drying things in the cockpit.) However my boom tarp now looks like confetti.
the connector (canvas between dodger and bimini) and bimini Zippers need to be replaced/Resewn with qty=2, two way zippers for added convenience setting the main sheet. ( I have not located the correct zipper yet. Something like 4 sleeping bag zippers should work)
The only wind I dont like with the enclosure up is the downwind leg. (however I do not have an easily adjustable backstay)
and a question I have for those with removable window panels...
how do you like the zipper attachments vs. the velco attachments for Windows/screens. Secondly (this is to duane mostly.... Are your windows as close to water tight as a non removable panel. I was er.... suprised at how much water tries to come into the cockpit when the wind is blowind the rain sideways........ I have looked at adding this feature to my BWY enclosure. But I think I only want the two door panels and the back to have bug screens. I have noted the bee problem out here in the summer, But I hang a bee trap on the pulpit and haven't had any further in boat problems...(had enough with the nests between the hull and liner, and in the mast)
I use a towel to prevent main sheet chafe.
Interesting........tho
I haven't had anyone complain that it is too hot yet....
I'll have to try sailing in nicer weather......... now if I could just get more time off during the 1 1/2 months of summer and still have wind.
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Frank C
-
Night Sailor
- Admiral
- Posts: 1007
- Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:56 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: '98, MACX1780I798, '97 Merc 50hp Classic, Denton Co. TX "Duet"
dimitri,
before I begin building I have to resovle a few design issues and they may take awhile as I have other projects ongoing.
I've already built and arch and moved the backstay to it on the centerline so it's not in the way.
What's left is getting adequate coverage from blistering sun and visibility forward while standing and under sail.
1. I'm 6'1" so would like to have 6'2" headroom at the helm, which means from the end of the boom on back. I want visibility forward while standing. The Dowser gives the headroom but no visibility when fully enclosed. If the midsection of the Dowser is removed for sailing, then there simply isn't enough cockpit coverage from the sun to be worthwhile. Texas sun is a BIG issue.
BWY doesn't have standing headroom for a me. Genco has a stepup design displayed on their website that shows this can be done. The issue of how to go about allowing for the mainsheet to be functional and swing through it's arc may have to come down to a decision that when the weather is requiring a full enclosure, the main is dropped and only genny is used, or motor and genny.
2. I'm considering not having a folding bow arrangement like the usual dodgers and biminis, but 1" s.s. bows fixed to rail sockets so the bows can be removed during the good weather season or for maintenance, but remain in place for the rainy season in winds of at least 60mph. They would be much stronger and stable than any folding bow arrangement.
The canvas could removed and the bows left in place if desired.
3. I'm considering also having dodger the maximum height under the boom, (with clearance for the sail and skinny sail cover). The dodger would extend as far back as the mainsheet travel would allow it.
4. I'm considering cutting off six inches or so of the boom, so it's further from my face at the helm when the boom is centered while under power only. That would allow the standup part of the bimini to go that much farther forward also.
5. I have to decide just how much netting and permanent window area to place and where.
6. Wherever there are windows, I will also want window covers to keep the sun and dirt off the vinly when not in use.
7. Using the asymm as a downwind or reaching sail in light air is always on my mind in light air so access for the sheets from the rear stanchions is necessary.
8. Sunbrella is the preferred fabric, but I'm considering using a heavy duty, white vinyl backed with a dark gray cloth as that wears well, reflects heat and cleans up easily. The disadvantage is, it's harder to sew and any mistake in sewing can be disasterous for appearance and weakening the fabric. It's also heavier, and harder to fold when cold.
So these are the things I'm considering. Your ideas are welcome.
before I begin building I have to resovle a few design issues and they may take awhile as I have other projects ongoing.
I've already built and arch and moved the backstay to it on the centerline so it's not in the way.
What's left is getting adequate coverage from blistering sun and visibility forward while standing and under sail.
1. I'm 6'1" so would like to have 6'2" headroom at the helm, which means from the end of the boom on back. I want visibility forward while standing. The Dowser gives the headroom but no visibility when fully enclosed. If the midsection of the Dowser is removed for sailing, then there simply isn't enough cockpit coverage from the sun to be worthwhile. Texas sun is a BIG issue.
BWY doesn't have standing headroom for a me. Genco has a stepup design displayed on their website that shows this can be done. The issue of how to go about allowing for the mainsheet to be functional and swing through it's arc may have to come down to a decision that when the weather is requiring a full enclosure, the main is dropped and only genny is used, or motor and genny.
2. I'm considering not having a folding bow arrangement like the usual dodgers and biminis, but 1" s.s. bows fixed to rail sockets so the bows can be removed during the good weather season or for maintenance, but remain in place for the rainy season in winds of at least 60mph. They would be much stronger and stable than any folding bow arrangement.
The canvas could removed and the bows left in place if desired.
3. I'm considering also having dodger the maximum height under the boom, (with clearance for the sail and skinny sail cover). The dodger would extend as far back as the mainsheet travel would allow it.
4. I'm considering cutting off six inches or so of the boom, so it's further from my face at the helm when the boom is centered while under power only. That would allow the standup part of the bimini to go that much farther forward also.
5. I have to decide just how much netting and permanent window area to place and where.
6. Wherever there are windows, I will also want window covers to keep the sun and dirt off the vinly when not in use.
7. Using the asymm as a downwind or reaching sail in light air is always on my mind in light air so access for the sheets from the rear stanchions is necessary.
8. Sunbrella is the preferred fabric, but I'm considering using a heavy duty, white vinyl backed with a dark gray cloth as that wears well, reflects heat and cleans up easily. The disadvantage is, it's harder to sew and any mistake in sewing can be disasterous for appearance and weakening the fabric. It's also heavier, and harder to fold when cold.
So these are the things I'm considering. Your ideas are welcome.
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Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
- Admiral
- Posts: 2043
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 5:36 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Tampa, Florida 2000 Mercury BigFoot 50HP 4-Stroke on 26X hull# 3575.B000
Do you have a URL for that Genco design? I am on the slow path of getting a full enclosure and it has to be good for Florida sun. I'm not sure how you can shorten the boom much unless you recut your sail. I seem to recall that it takes every little bit of my boom in order to have a 3:1 outhaul.
I have been contemplating a step up design, perhaps with 2 bimini's even. The rear bimini would be similar to the Dowsar, behind the boom and shading right up to the transom of the boat (backstay goes through bimini). I would go a bit shorter for me, maybe 5'10" of headroom. I would attach the main sheet to the rear of the boom as it used to be before the bail was moved up for the standard bimini I have now.
The second bimini would be under the boom like the standard one. It would either need to be movable (ie, move it forward to get clearance for the main sheet) or maybe just attached to the dodger so that the connecting piece would go between the two bimini's. I think the two bimini's will be about 5-6 inches apart vertically so that you can stand at the helm and look over the top of the shorter bimini. Perhaps you could use a partly clear connector here so that you have a view even with the piece in place. It is this second bimini that is tricky to design. One of these days, I may try moving my existing bimini forward to see how it would look and whether the main sheet will clear. This will also provide better main sheeting performance with attachment further aft on the boom.
I figure if I could put together a good design, then I just have to decide on fabric and then get some local canvas shops to bid on the job. The Dowsar does look like really good quality but it is pretty expensive, I think you could get a good custom one built for about $3K. Also, I feel that with a little innovation, you could get more cockpit shade than a Dowsar when sailing. When motoring, its not a big deal, my guess is you could probably even put up a boom tent if you don't go too fast. I still haven't tried my boom tent I bought last year. I'm getting ready to get back into sailing here for the windy season...just had 4 months worth of downtime due to a mast rebuild. The design of the window screens are probably also another decision to make...how much screen, etc.
I have been contemplating a step up design, perhaps with 2 bimini's even. The rear bimini would be similar to the Dowsar, behind the boom and shading right up to the transom of the boat (backstay goes through bimini). I would go a bit shorter for me, maybe 5'10" of headroom. I would attach the main sheet to the rear of the boom as it used to be before the bail was moved up for the standard bimini I have now.
The second bimini would be under the boom like the standard one. It would either need to be movable (ie, move it forward to get clearance for the main sheet) or maybe just attached to the dodger so that the connecting piece would go between the two bimini's. I think the two bimini's will be about 5-6 inches apart vertically so that you can stand at the helm and look over the top of the shorter bimini. Perhaps you could use a partly clear connector here so that you have a view even with the piece in place. It is this second bimini that is tricky to design. One of these days, I may try moving my existing bimini forward to see how it would look and whether the main sheet will clear. This will also provide better main sheeting performance with attachment further aft on the boom.
I figure if I could put together a good design, then I just have to decide on fabric and then get some local canvas shops to bid on the job. The Dowsar does look like really good quality but it is pretty expensive, I think you could get a good custom one built for about $3K. Also, I feel that with a little innovation, you could get more cockpit shade than a Dowsar when sailing. When motoring, its not a big deal, my guess is you could probably even put up a boom tent if you don't go too fast. I still haven't tried my boom tent I bought last year. I'm getting ready to get back into sailing here for the windy season...just had 4 months worth of downtime due to a mast rebuild. The design of the window screens are probably also another decision to make...how much screen, etc.
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Duane Dunn, Allegro
- Admiral
- Posts: 2459
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:41 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Bellevue, Wa '96 26x, Tohatsu 90 TLDI and Plug In Hybrid Electric drive
- Contact:
After 4 years with the Dowsar (which by the looks of it Genco copied pretty closely) one of the changes I plan to make is adding a window in the connector panel. It would have a velcro on cover to make it more waterproof and provide sun shade when needed. This would give better forward visibility when standing at the helm. When seated at the helm (even on my elevated helm seat) visibility forward is fine through the dodger. For most general cruising I don't miss the extra window, it's really just at those standup times like docking where I tend to peer out the side for a better view. Another approach I have used is to unzip half or all of the connector and flip it to the side or back. I mainly do this when I want to see high things like the walls when going through the locks.
As far as sailing with the full enclosure in place you would obviously need an external traveler, perhaps on an arch ala the Hunter boats. I think it would be pretty easy to put in a forward sloped SS arch that crossed roughly above the front bow of the Dowsar bimini. The one other change I think would be required is a recut of the foot of the main to put a slight up angle on the boom so the aft end is about a foot higher and would have a better angle to the traveler. I'd put a roller on this arch for mast storage as well. You could probably get the angle such that the arch could carry the practically non-existant backstay load as well.
The other choice is a traveler above the dodger at the companionway as a few people have done (see the mod section). The main concern with this is boom strength as it puts the sheet attachment point pretty far forward.
Once the traveler is in place and no lines need to pass to the pedestal you could sail with full protection.
The connector window would also provide better visibility of the sail shape with the enclosure in place. You see these kind of windows a lot on bigger boat bimini's so you can see the sail from the helm through the bimini.
As far as sailing with the full enclosure in place you would obviously need an external traveler, perhaps on an arch ala the Hunter boats. I think it would be pretty easy to put in a forward sloped SS arch that crossed roughly above the front bow of the Dowsar bimini. The one other change I think would be required is a recut of the foot of the main to put a slight up angle on the boom so the aft end is about a foot higher and would have a better angle to the traveler. I'd put a roller on this arch for mast storage as well. You could probably get the angle such that the arch could carry the practically non-existant backstay load as well.
The other choice is a traveler above the dodger at the companionway as a few people have done (see the mod section). The main concern with this is boom strength as it puts the sheet attachment point pretty far forward.
Once the traveler is in place and no lines need to pass to the pedestal you could sail with full protection.
The connector window would also provide better visibility of the sail shape with the enclosure in place. You see these kind of windows a lot on bigger boat bimini's so you can see the sail from the helm through the bimini.
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waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
Frank,
"1. The only wind I dont like with the enclosure up is the downwind leg."
That big ass flat wind sail (enclosure) that lifts the back of the boat up even more,drives the bow down, splashes more wave, slows me up, and takes too much of the rudder out of the water for best control.
'2. (however I do not have an easily adjustable backstay)"
The current backstay adjustment I use is set once or twice a day depending on the winds I expect. I have a shortened backstay with 3 removable SS screw closure biner type links and the standard pin type sliding shackle adjuster. (Points to those of you who can guess why my front and back stays are now shorter........hehehehe)
I have looked at a couple of posted ideas here for an adjustable backstay......But I am convinced that this is the winter that I can install a new arch above my BWY Bimini, (hopefully) and dont want to mess with the backstay until that is done.
I keep looking at the hassle to install anything that clamps or drills to existing corner railings and compare that to new backing plates and mounts for an integrated corner and arch mount. I really only need it to hold the boom while trailering, and antennas for Radar, GPS, SSB, VHF, SAT, solar panel, wind generator, and everything else. I have tried to fit my hand and forearm between the liner and the hull in that location, and frankly.......(no pun intended) I don't fit very well. So I really need to reinforce that deck connection strong enough for the arch, but as of yet, I have not glassed anything in there to do it. I decided to go outside the envelope of my existing bimini. 2 reasons, didnt want to change the bimini, and 2 I needed something to hold onto when on the dock at the back of the boat. Those bows are not designed to hold the boat in place. Trust me on this.
"1. The only wind I dont like with the enclosure up is the downwind leg."
That big ass flat wind sail (enclosure) that lifts the back of the boat up even more,drives the bow down, splashes more wave, slows me up, and takes too much of the rudder out of the water for best control.
'2. (however I do not have an easily adjustable backstay)"
The current backstay adjustment I use is set once or twice a day depending on the winds I expect. I have a shortened backstay with 3 removable SS screw closure biner type links and the standard pin type sliding shackle adjuster. (Points to those of you who can guess why my front and back stays are now shorter........hehehehe)
I have looked at a couple of posted ideas here for an adjustable backstay......But I am convinced that this is the winter that I can install a new arch above my BWY Bimini, (hopefully) and dont want to mess with the backstay until that is done.
I keep looking at the hassle to install anything that clamps or drills to existing corner railings and compare that to new backing plates and mounts for an integrated corner and arch mount. I really only need it to hold the boom while trailering, and antennas for Radar, GPS, SSB, VHF, SAT, solar panel, wind generator, and everything else. I have tried to fit my hand and forearm between the liner and the hull in that location, and frankly.......(no pun intended) I don't fit very well. So I really need to reinforce that deck connection strong enough for the arch, but as of yet, I have not glassed anything in there to do it. I decided to go outside the envelope of my existing bimini. 2 reasons, didnt want to change the bimini, and 2 I needed something to hold onto when on the dock at the back of the boat. Those bows are not designed to hold the boat in place. Trust me on this.
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kmclemore
- Site Admin
- Posts: 6267
- Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 9:24 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Ambler, PA -- MACX2018A898 w/ Suzuki DF60AV -- 78 BW Harpoon 4.6 -- 2018 Tahoe 550TF w/ 150 Merc
Here ya go:Dimitri-2000X-Tampa wrote:Do you have a URL for that Genco design?
http://www.gencomarine.com/dodgers/albu ... atLetter=M
Further discussion here, too, FYI:
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=4614
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5040
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5068
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=5413
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Frank C
Thanks Darren. No. 1 was pretty obvious.
As for the backstay, your point is that a full enclosure makes it inaccessible?
I've considered similar to you and Duane. An aft arch, ala Hunter, makes lots of sense for the Mac.
As for the backstay, your point is that a full enclosure makes it inaccessible?
I've considered similar to you and Duane. An aft arch, ala Hunter, makes lots of sense for the Mac.
- - It can carry all the gear you mentioned,
- and anchor the backstay,
- and move the traveler above the cockpit,
- and carry the mast for trailering,
- and completely replace the bimini~!
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James V
- Admiral
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:33 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Key West, Fl USA, 26M 06, Merc 50hp BF "LYNX"
Does anybody use their generators with the full enclosure up?
Do you use an A/C?
Are the screens small enough to keep out the no-see-um's?
When you don't use it and store it below, Is it a real pain to get around?
Cooking? Head? Aft berth?
When it rains, does water come through the canvas?
Any waterproofing?
Would you feel OK taking a shower in it with other boats around?
Just wanting to know as I would probably not want to keep it up all the time.
Do you use an A/C?
Are the screens small enough to keep out the no-see-um's?
When you don't use it and store it below, Is it a real pain to get around?
Cooking? Head? Aft berth?
When it rains, does water come through the canvas?
Any waterproofing?
Would you feel OK taking a shower in it with other boats around?
Just wanting to know as I would probably not want to keep it up all the time.
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waternwaves
- Admiral
- Posts: 1499
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:18 pm
- Location: X less in North Puget Sound -have to sail other boats for a while
Frank, I unzip the back window to adjust the backstay..... probably clumsy, but ...
I could not think of any way to keep the weight of the arch where I want it and stiff enough to handle 300Lbs of tension on the back stay., as well as a traveller. I need three contact points on each side of the mount If I was going to do that., plus it adds a third vertical member to the arch. , I guess it would be stiff enough if it was titanium (should be spelled Tighttanium around my wallet )
Frank, you are making me think here. With the traveller mounted on top, doesnt that make the traveller difficult to access and adjust? Would take a very neat custom traveller to make that work. I guess a rail running on the front of the arch would work, and if it was a vertical oriented rail, the sheet and reefing lines could be run into a slot between two rails for a car, And then standard pins or rack locks to hold the traveller car in place, seal the whole front of the arch and the 3/4" gap between rails with an overhanging canvas flap. Would you go to a 2 piece bimini both sides snapped or zipped to the arch?
James, I run my little generator hanging from the captains seat, in the motor well. (it shakes the cockpit plex)
I don't have bug screens (yet).
generator stores under the table, with the radar electronics.
BWY canvas only has water coming through where lines go under the doors, and cover the rear corner stanchions in strong driving rains.
We have hot water electric shower on deck no separate privacy screen, remove cockpit cushions and sit and shower, and soon will have shower back in the head, If I can get that little freaking drain sump to stay sealed.
I could not think of any way to keep the weight of the arch where I want it and stiff enough to handle 300Lbs of tension on the back stay., as well as a traveller. I need three contact points on each side of the mount If I was going to do that., plus it adds a third vertical member to the arch. , I guess it would be stiff enough if it was titanium (should be spelled Tighttanium around my wallet )
Frank, you are making me think here. With the traveller mounted on top, doesnt that make the traveller difficult to access and adjust? Would take a very neat custom traveller to make that work. I guess a rail running on the front of the arch would work, and if it was a vertical oriented rail, the sheet and reefing lines could be run into a slot between two rails for a car, And then standard pins or rack locks to hold the traveller car in place, seal the whole front of the arch and the 3/4" gap between rails with an overhanging canvas flap. Would you go to a 2 piece bimini both sides snapped or zipped to the arch?
James, I run my little generator hanging from the captains seat, in the motor well. (it shakes the cockpit plex)
I don't have bug screens (yet).
generator stores under the table, with the radar electronics.
BWY canvas only has water coming through where lines go under the doors, and cover the rear corner stanchions in strong driving rains.
We have hot water electric shower on deck no separate privacy screen, remove cockpit cushions and sit and shower, and soon will have shower back in the head, If I can get that little freaking drain sump to stay sealed.
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Duane Dunn, Allegro
- Admiral
- Posts: 2459
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 6:41 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Bellevue, Wa '96 26x, Tohatsu 90 TLDI and Plug In Hybrid Electric drive
- Contact:
James,
Our enclosure is up all the time we are on the water. We remove side panels and connectors as needed but never take down the dodger or bimini.
We do not have a generator yet, but if we did it would be running out in the transom area outside the enclosure. No A/C required up here, just heat!
The Dowsar screens keep out all the bugs we have up here including the pesky bees that are always in the islands during the summer.
Storage is not an issue. Even when down the dodger and bimini bows are always attached above decks. I have never removed them in the 4 years we have had the enclosure. The bimini top and the connector fold up and are zipped in a boot that stays standing at the aft end of the cockpit when stored on the water. It folds down forward into the cockpit when the mast is put in the trailering position then I tie it up to the bottom of the stored mast for easy passage through the cockpit.
All the other canvas gets rolled up and stored below in the storage area I made above the aft berth.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin ... record=350
Ours has stayed very watertight, no leaks in 4 years. The fabric itself is very water tight and even the stiching doesn't leak. It's pretty cool to sit back in the enclosed cockpit dry and warm snuggled in blankets while the boat smashes through rough seas with huge spray and rain self steering with the autopilot. Our middle son sleeps in the cockpit rain or shine dry and comfortable. In the third year I did treat the upper surfaces with the spray sold at www.sailrite.com for treating sunbrella. They say it is the only waterproofer approved by the sunbrella factory. I'll probably do it again prior to next season.
Our enclosure has big clear windows, I'd only shower in a swimsuit.
Our enclosure is up all the time we are on the water. We remove side panels and connectors as needed but never take down the dodger or bimini.
We do not have a generator yet, but if we did it would be running out in the transom area outside the enclosure. No A/C required up here, just heat!
The Dowsar screens keep out all the bugs we have up here including the pesky bees that are always in the islands during the summer.
Storage is not an issue. Even when down the dodger and bimini bows are always attached above decks. I have never removed them in the 4 years we have had the enclosure. The bimini top and the connector fold up and are zipped in a boot that stays standing at the aft end of the cockpit when stored on the water. It folds down forward into the cockpit when the mast is put in the trailering position then I tie it up to the bottom of the stored mast for easy passage through the cockpit.
All the other canvas gets rolled up and stored below in the storage area I made above the aft berth.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin ... record=350
Ours has stayed very watertight, no leaks in 4 years. The fabric itself is very water tight and even the stiching doesn't leak. It's pretty cool to sit back in the enclosed cockpit dry and warm snuggled in blankets while the boat smashes through rough seas with huge spray and rain self steering with the autopilot. Our middle son sleeps in the cockpit rain or shine dry and comfortable. In the third year I did treat the upper surfaces with the spray sold at www.sailrite.com for treating sunbrella. They say it is the only waterproofer approved by the sunbrella factory. I'll probably do it again prior to next season.
Our enclosure has big clear windows, I'd only shower in a swimsuit.
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Night Sailor
- Admiral
- Posts: 1007
- Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:56 pm
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: '98, MACX1780I798, '97 Merc 50hp Classic, Denton Co. TX "Duet"
I haven't figured an acceptable way to add the mainsheet tackle to an arch without 1. Raising boom and recutting sail, which also raises the COE of the sailplan or 2. making the arch unacceptabley low to allow space for the necessary mainsheet tackle and thereby limiting cockpit travel or headroom.
It could be done with a double mainsheet or continuous mainsheet run from mid boom to the rail, then back along the coaming to the rear corners then inward. I've done that before on a 30' keelboat but it's hard to overcome the friction in light air, and still retain the advantage you need in heavy air.
I'll experiment some with maybe an adequate arch incorporated into the dodger aft extension, but that still leaves the mainsheet and tackle having a greater distance to travel to the helm, and there must be a slot in the overhead somehow to allow all it's movement. Or maybe not. A permanent hardtop cockpit cover could answer a lot of needs. Ahh, more to think about.
Well, as I said. it's not an immediate concern,but I think about it every time I get on the boat. Maybe one day a bright idea will happen.
It could be done with a double mainsheet or continuous mainsheet run from mid boom to the rail, then back along the coaming to the rear corners then inward. I've done that before on a 30' keelboat but it's hard to overcome the friction in light air, and still retain the advantage you need in heavy air.
I'll experiment some with maybe an adequate arch incorporated into the dodger aft extension, but that still leaves the mainsheet and tackle having a greater distance to travel to the helm, and there must be a slot in the overhead somehow to allow all it's movement. Or maybe not. A permanent hardtop cockpit cover could answer a lot of needs. Ahh, more to think about.
Well, as I said. it's not an immediate concern,but I think about it every time I get on the boat. Maybe one day a bright idea will happen.
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James V
- Admiral
- Posts: 1705
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:33 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26M
- Location: Key West, Fl USA, 26M 06, Merc 50hp BF "LYNX"
Thanks for the responses.
Bugs in Fl means everything from big 4" bugs to very small biteing flies called No-see-um's. In S. Fl these come out in the 100,00's when the wind dies. So thick that you need head netting to not breath them in. The Everglades advices you, during the summer, that you should put on the bug spray before you get out of the car!
All other questions answererd. Thanks. It looks like both BWY and Dowser have good reviews. It just depends if you want SS and the zip out windows that Dowser makes, and a little stronger, for the extra $$$.
Bugs in Fl means everything from big 4" bugs to very small biteing flies called No-see-um's. In S. Fl these come out in the 100,00's when the wind dies. So thick that you need head netting to not breath them in. The Everglades advices you, during the summer, that you should put on the bug spray before you get out of the car!
All other questions answererd. Thanks. It looks like both BWY and Dowser have good reviews. It just depends if you want SS and the zip out windows that Dowser makes, and a little stronger, for the extra $$$.
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Dimitri-2000X-Tampa
- Admiral
- Posts: 2043
- Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2004 5:36 am
- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Tampa, Florida 2000 Mercury BigFoot 50HP 4-Stroke on 26X hull# 3575.B000
Thanks for the links Kevin (I couldn't find it on Google), did you get your bimini and if so, which one? Seems to take me years to make these decisions..and execute on them plus the fact that I already have a dodger and bimini and sometimes get tempted to just get it redone as a full enclosure, but it wouldn't be as nice as a properly designed one.
So it seems both Genco and Dowsar are Canadian...whats up with that. It would be nice to have a good Southern dealer for this stuff, one designed for mostly sun and some rain....not mostly rain and some sun.
A traveller would certainly be nice from a sailing control point of view, but with my big family, the benefit would be outweighed by the fact that it takes up too much cockpit room. Putting it on the companionway is too far foward IMO, probably worse than the current setup.
So it seems both Genco and Dowsar are Canadian...whats up with that. It would be nice to have a good Southern dealer for this stuff, one designed for mostly sun and some rain....not mostly rain and some sun.
A traveller would certainly be nice from a sailing control point of view, but with my big family, the benefit would be outweighed by the fact that it takes up too much cockpit room. Putting it on the companionway is too far foward IMO, probably worse than the current setup.