Measurable improvements.

[Terry]

A few small improvements can be measured how ever small the measurement is.
The Outhaul kit is nice, I just put one in.
The 3-1 purchase pully on the daggerboard line really makes it easy.
Those bearing air blocks that BWY sells are nice for $69., they make pulling the mainsheet in effortless. Small but measurable difference.
An Auto helm can be measured in effort required. A bit pricey though.
Four blade prop helps manuevering a bit.
Mast plate bearing from BWY Keeps mast rotating freely.
Lines aft for convenience. *
Extra reef point *
Cunningham *
many years of sailing experience *
I just can't wait to spend the big boat bucks on new sails, but that is still coming. *
I think every mod can be measured some how, just look at how folks measure the benefits of the porta-pottie.

*- denotes (don't have yet)

[Scott]

As a pure guilt trip I will chastise all for degrading my serious inquiry to "bathroom humor"

I rode my bike 5 miles uphill both ways to work in 100 deg weather and came home excited to here my compatriots take on this and was stoked to see 15 responses in 1 day!!

After quickly skimming the responses I see Delevi's serious response from yesterday and Frank and Terry's from today, although Frank you dont get to pass go or collect $200 because you started with sophomoric humor!!

All kidding aside, cut the crap, get it? crap hahaha me funny.

Good answer Frank. I also like my boom kicker for the same reason. Its much more useable with the line aft. When it was cam cleated at the mast base it was difficult to use.

[normo]

Reducing mast rake noticeably reduced tendency for the boat to round up in high winds.

Replacing the factory main with one from a quality loft made a noticeable difference in higher wind conditions. Flatter cut, two reef points, slightly heavier material for longevity. If this is too costly add an intermediate reef point to your factory main.

My favorite change was adding a cabin top traveler.

Place telltales on the headsail and on the leech of the main and learn how to use them.

Every boat needs a Windex or some type of spar fly.

Keep the motor out of the water when sailing.

Every boat needs a clinometer and should avoid continuous heel angles much greater than 25 degrees when beating as you are probably making excessive leeway.

[Frank C]

... although Frank you dont get to pass go or collect $200
because you started with sophomoric humor!!

(Can I still collect the 200 bucks if I edit & correct it? ... xtra-credit, Teach? @!!)

[Scott]

yeah, but you have to collect it from the other hall monitors!! (Slush fund)(=0)

[Gemini]

Ok, I'll take a stab:

1. Rig tuning, taking up the forestay to reduce mast rake & tightening the upper shrouds, (letting up on the lowers) to induce mast bend. The former reduces weather helm & roundups. The later helps flatten the main sail a bit, but not sure if I really noticed a change.
2. BWY steering to easily disconnect the engine while sailing. LOVE IT!
3. Main Halyard aft, including installation of slugs. A must have mod.
4. Intermediate Reef Point
5. Ballasted Dagger board (can't forget that.) Reduces heel angle on average 5-7 degrees (SWAG)
6. Running Back Stays (helps point about 5 degrees closer, taking the bow out of the RF forestay.)
7. Jiffy reefs for both reef points (not single line reefing.) I still go up on deck to drop slugs and put the new tack on the hook. The jiffy reef sets the new clew w/o having to undo the outhaul and put it through the new clew.
8. Roller Furling (a must have IMHO) Got that with the boat, however
9. Large 5.5 Gal Sanipoti. Also a must have for anyone doing any overnight trips.
10. Larger steering wheel 18" (no performance increase but feels & looks better.)
11. Steering wheel break. I got this as a dealer perk, but I hear not everyone has one. This is fantastic for single-handing for those of us w/o autopilot.

Leon

Do you know where you can get a steering wheel brake, or is there a mod for this? That is the one thing I wish I really had.

[DLT]

Do you know where you can get a steering wheel brake, or is there a mod for this? That is the one thing I wish I really had.

Mine consists of two of the old rubber pre-bungy tie downs. One is wrapped around the pedestal's SST tube, securing the second one to the tube. When I want to lash the wheel, I just wrap the second one through the wheel and hook it to itself...

[Richard O'Brien]

I can't really add much to the fecal humor as I only have one of those 2 gallon porta potti's But I do have to second Leon on the bwy quick disconnect, and Bill's EZ cleats. If you have roller-furling , and add a mini-cam cleat for the 1/4" furling line, you can single hand, and adjust the sheets on the fly. I don't know if I can release them in 35 kts., but you can always head up into the wind a bit.

[Divecoz]

IN trailer mode, my life was made a lot easier when I discovered the sanitary sewer connection outside the house ...now I just lift it and dump without having to take the PP into the house....probably violates a bunch of codes ...oh well.....

Im installing a macerator for use offshore this year..Ideally I would love to be able to pump out the tank into the same basin without having to haul the PP out at all...something like an internally threaded through hull that an 'RV' type waste pipe can connect too...

No code violation if done after dark

[Divecoz]

Ok, I'll take a stab:

1. Rig tuning, taking up the forestay to reduce mast rake & tightening the upper shrouds, (letting up on the lowers) to induce mast bend. The former reduces weather helm & roundups. The later helps flatten the main sail a bit, but not sure if I really noticed a change.
2. BWY steering to easily disconnect the engine while sailing. LOVE IT!
3. Main Halyard aft, including installation of slugs. A must have mod.
4. Intermediate Reef Point
5. Ballasted Dagger board (can't forget that.) Reduces heel angle on average 5-7 degrees (SWAG)
6. Running Back Stays (helps point about 5 degrees closer, taking the bow out of the RF forestay.)
7. Jiffy reefs for both reef points (not single line reefing.) I still go up on deck to drop slugs and put the new tack on the hook. The jiffy reef sets the new clew w/o having to undo the outhaul and put it through the new clew.
8. Roller Furling (a must have IMHO) Got that with the boat, however
9. Large 5.5 Gal Sanipoti. Also a must have for anyone doing any overnight trips.
10. Larger steering wheel 18" (no performance increase but feels & looks better.)
11. Steering wheel break. I got this as a dealer perk, but I hear not everyone has one. This is fantastic for single-handing for those of us w/o autopilot.

Leon

Delevi: Will that list soon be available in paper backk with numerous PICTURES ! or maybe a DVD/VHS like speedy rigger . .

[Jeff S]

Reducing mast rake to reduce weather helm and decrease boat tenderness (by far the rig tuning and mast rake reduction changed the feel of the boat the most)

Garhauer Rigid Vang for reasons mentioned by Frank C (and it is much easier to hold the mast up than a topping lift)

Replacement Teleflex Steering Cable (much easier steering, finger pressure)

22" Destroyer Wheel (small movements give movement, feels like a sailboat now)

Lines led aft (quicker to adjust, and able to single-hand)

On Edit:
Intermediate reef point.

[Night Sailor]

Assuming OEM size and weight of sails, and a clean hull, I have to say the best improvement in boat performance for me has come from the boomkicker. In light air, it will allow me to develop a lot of bag in the main which I can convert to foil shape after shifting ballast to the lee side. I used to not have enough air to force the boom up and out and it would just hang loose and silly. Now I can move when even the tell tales have trouble flying.

[Newell]

Perhaps these are tactics as opposed to a improvements, but matching the set up of the boat to the conditions will give performance gains that when measured as a whole will be significant. When sailing on light winds don't fill the ballast, bag the Main both vertically and horizontally just a little. shift weight to the lee side, raise the windward rudder, avoid oversteering and hunt for puffs or cat's paws on the water. Reverse all of these for windy conditions. If winds build beyond the sail plan reefing will reduce heeling and improve performance speed.

An improvement not mentioned is balencing the boat fore and aft. This is especially necessary for those having 50 hp and plus engines hanging on the transom. I moved both batteries to the nose just ahead of a 26 gallon water bladder. Keep all weight added to the boat as low to the hull as possible. Don't bottom paint and wax with VS721.

Newell
Fast Sunday 96X

[ronacarme]

Call it improvements, tactics,measurable or not, whatever... but for sailing in displacement mode, I believe the more the transom is out of the water the better...reduces transom turbulence drag, tilts mast fwd to fwd CE and thus allows CB to be let down more without loss of CE/CLR balance, good CE/CLR balance minimizes rudder drag and aids selfsteering.
Seems like a removable/retractable bowsprit for the assym would improve speed and usable range of sailing angles, with main up, but I have not yet figured out one I like.

[They Theirs]

Shore Sails on mainsail improvements (click here)