One-hand-sailing

[Kevin]

Anxious to keep things as simple as possible and since the Ronstan#RF5's combined with downhauls look like a solution that addresses the issues I've had, I picked up a pair.

Now comes the appeal for help. How should the blocks be attached to the mast? Holes in the blocks would accept a 10-24 screw. I see that my reefing hook and gooseneck mounting points are pop riveted.

Can I use sheet metal screws to mount the blocks? Do I need to take down the mast and find some way to put a nut and bolt on them?

I've always just assembled things per instructions, so my confidence level here is low. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[Chip Hindes]

Can I use sheet metal screws to mount the blocks? Do I need to take down the mast and find some way to put a nut and bolt on them?

I dont have any problem with sheet metal screws or non-backed pop rivets on the mast or boom when the loads are in shear only : i.e., when the load is parallel to the mast, such as with halyard cleats, the gooseneck, or cheek blocks. However, when the loads are axial, trying to pull the fasteners directly out of the holes, I believe its wise to provide some kind of backer. I use standard diameter washers and nylok nuts on all such applications.

With the mast down, remove the baseplate so you can reach up inside. The hardest part is getting the washers on and the nuts started; after that it is just a matter of getting a long handled box wrench on it so you can tighten it. Even if you have no help, its surprisingly easy to learn to do it by feel, but if you can find a helper (preferably one with a long, skinny arm) its even easier.

A caution when reaching inside the mast: the sheet metal screws used at the factory have needle sharp points and will rip your (or your helpers) arms quite badly if you arent careful.

[Kevin]

Thanks Chip.

You pretty much said what I felt. Just had to hear it from somebody with some experience.

I'll be dropping the mast next weekend and see if I can find something pretty I can use to bribe the girlfriend with the skinny arms for her help.

[Moe]

On an 26M, wouldn't you want to avoid attaching the lower block to the mast, and either to the base plate or deck instead?

[Richard O'Brien]

On an 26M, wouldn't you want to avoid attaching the lower block to the mast, and either to the base plate or deck instead?

Exactly. Moe has it right for the M. Any part of the "non-rotating" base plate will work. I used the existing "mast-raising" bolt hole to attach the first block because it was available, and out of the way. If the mast was 1 ft. tall this would keep it from rotating, but since it's 30' tall it has no effect. The second block is more of a deck organizer, and keeps the halyard from running over the top of the sliding hatch. The third item is a cam cleat, (or power clutch) to grab the halyard as you take a few cranks with the winch, and needs to be mounted about a foot or so?? in front of the winch. I'm sorry I don't have photos.