MacGregorSailors.com

Pete C.,
If you are anchored at a Marina or other designated anchorage you don't need any anchor light at all, although I find it very helpful to find the boat while in the dinghy returning after dark. (Durn dog can't hold it till morning!) It was implied in the posts above, but to state it clearly you should not have your masthead (steaming) light on unless the boat is moving under power. That is also true for your running lights.

As Moe suggested, installing a light on the X is a snap. Use the fishtape and install the same connector to the end of the wire that the masthead light uses since you will never have both on at the same time. The M is more complicated due to the foam in the mast. Check the archives if interested.

I also didn't drill any holes in the mast up top. I used long machine screws down through the holes in the bottom of the light, straddling the bars of the chickenhead (truck). The screws go through a piece of aluminum stock drilled for them underneath the chickenhead. I used a large rubber fender washer punched for the screws underneath the light and above the aluminum stock to help this setup grip the chickenhead. The wire comes up out of the mast, down between the chickenhead arms and up into the bottom of the light, forming a drip loop underneath it.

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Moe

Who's got a picture of the diode? Also, where do I get a double pole double throw switch? Are they pre-wired?

Gerald Gordon wrote:Who's got a picture of the diode? Also, where do I get a double pole double throw switch? Are they pre-wired?

Here is a good place to learn about diodes (car electronics site, but you will get the idea)
http://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp


here is one from radioshack. Not sure on which one I used. But here is one for a look http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?c ... d=276-1122

The switches are generally set for your wires - either spade terminals or screw terminals. But wired internally already. there should be a diagram where the wires go on the box it comes in

Paul

Thank you for the info, Paul.

Both the switch and the diode need to be rated for at least 1 amp, since it is a 10w bulb. This isn't a big deal, but just something to keep in mind. Many are, but many are not...

I used a pair of 3A barrel diodes, one in each light. Still haven't found the DPDT switch I want to use though.

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Moe