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Chip,

You're right about the unintended interaction between the mainsheet and the proposed contraption. Tightening the main sheet will pull the boom bail rearward and downward, thereby pulling B2 away from B1 and tightening the main halyard. Of course, it will also tend to pull the boom downward... So, the end result might be very little... I guess I'll find out how much of a difference this actually makes...

As you are a much more experienced sailor, I'll take your word for the need to adjust the main halyard and boom vang independently. In my VERY limited experience, I've just hoisted the main, cleated it off, yanked the boom vang tight, and then gone back to the cockpit - never to touch either again until it was time to drop the main...

But, as far as the boom being pulled to one side, I think you're wrong. B1 will attach to a tab extending rearward and upward at about 45 degrees from the mast base, that rotates with the mast and is where the boom vang normally attaches. With B2 attached to the boom bail, the only force the boom sees mimics that of the boom vang.

I also fail to see where the lines are crossing, provided you don't try to get purchase/advantage between B1 and B2. If you do try to get purchase/advantage, then, yes, the line will almost certainly rub itself and/or one of the blocks...

Also, I did mention that I thought the line would want to run alongside the gooseneck, but that could be prevented (at least temporarily for testing) by running the line forward of the main halyard cleat, using that main cleat as a temporary turning block. In that case, of course, there will be some friction between the line and the cleat, but with such a shallow angle it shouldn't be too bad. Besides, if the setup works out, I could just mount a cheek block near the cleat, on the mast, and run the line through that...

Obviously, this is not an optimum solution. However, I'm not a race sailor. In fact, I barely consider myself a sailor. It just occured to me that this might be a decent way for me to get the main halyard back to the cockpit, in a clean and reversible manner. I realize that I am certainly sacrificing the boom vang in doing so, since I am changing the boom attachment point, losing the 4:1 advantage, and limiting the boom vang's tension to that of the main halyard. But, with the mainsheet setup on the M, this board is replete with comments about the boom vang being unnecessary on the M anyway.

So, I guess I'll just see if it works out...

After the mast is up, put a swivel block in the hole in the mast-step, starboard side, where the mast raiser had been.
Put another swivel block on the base of the starboard stanchion athwart the mast-step. You can use another single block here. I use a double block, because I also run the dagger-board line through it.
Run the line(s) aft to a cleat or rope clutch (I use a double clutch) next to the winch. You should not have to use the winches for the halyards; they are sheet-winches.
On the port side, put a swivel-block at the mast-step, another at the port stanchion base, line aft. I also use a double rope-clutch here, for the jib halyard, and downhaul/RF furling line.
You need to have sail-slugs. I use a longer main halyard, and use the Mac main halyard for a jib halyard.
For trailering and mast raising/lowering remove the blocks from the mast-step. They are between the halyard blocks and the stanchion blocks so you can't lose them.

How do you see your pics?

Mike H

I tried a simple method. A double block attached where the vang attaches to the mast. The main halyard ran through one side with a take down line through the other. Using the winch, I had little trouble getting the main up even in 20 mph wind. Getting it down went smoothly too. At least something went right that day - see stupid boat tricks.

s/f
Dave U