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I'm going from memory here, but didn't the early "X" boats have the vent under the aft berth? I still have a "vestigial" vent and "cup" under there and mine was near the end of the production run. Maybe the "cups" were shorter on early versions.

Be Free wrote: ↑Mon Dec 06, 2021 7:38 am I'm going from memory here, but didn't the early "X" boats have the vent under the aft berth? I still have a "vestigial" vent and "cup" under there and mine was near the end of the production run. Maybe the "cups" were shorter on early versions.

Mine must be slightly newer than yours, as it has the little removable step, but there's no hole for a vent. Just flat FRP.

My vent is in the vee berth.

Tomfoolery thanks for pointing that out, my boat has the vent in the bow area with a fairly large cup around it. Think it’s around 4” high? That could be an issue if bow is overloaded for sure. Worse if plug popped out unknowingly.

Tomfoolery wrote “. Just keep an eye on the water level at the vent in the bow, as loading heavy things forward will cause the ballast water level to rise at that end. I found that out the hard way when I launched without moving all my heavy crap back to where it belongs after trailering. Water started coming over the cup that surrounds the vent hole.
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Worse if plug popped out unknowingly.

Possible, but in all of the years I have been on this site, I don't recall that ever happening. Please don't take that as a challenge.

Hi Sheppie62!

I know that you already ordered the replacement wastegate valve but here’s a couple thoughts to kick around….

>> When you replace your valve get some “Super Lube” made by Parker ( the O-Ring company) or some other good O-Ring lube and apply it generously into the area around the o-ring(s)and slide plate face(s)as well as into the groove tracks before installing the new valve.

>> Redo annually and this should help dramatically improve the service life of the valve while making it easier to operate.

We’ve experienced various mollusk attachments where we are in SC.
They buggers seem to like Stainless but have also attached to plastic but not as aggressively.
Had to scrape the critters off the exposed face of the valve to get it to open after 4 months in the estuary waters.
(Forgot to lube the plate surface before launching back in the Spring of 2021. )

The other thing is we are going to replace ours before we get back in the water again with a remote cable handle type instead of the rod extension. I don’t like having to reach over the stern to grab the existing handle ( I’m clumsy enough as it is) nor do I like the flimsy aspect of a small diameter rod that is begging me to run into it (did I mention I might be clumsy?).

The cable handle type I can run up the stern corner behind the seat and reach it while seated without having to look around for it.
That way I can open/close it while underway if desired (and I’m not taunting the sharks with a snack ).




The cable length can be simply and easily trimmed down to whatever length is appropriate so one doesn’t have to contend with excess length if not needed. (I’ll be lubricting the cable throughly with a light grease before installing to ensure there is no water intrusion and longevity of easy usage over time.)

Best Regards,
Over Easy

I no longer lean over the transom to open or close the valve. I use my boat hook to pull up, and the cushion on the end of the hook to push down.

Hi NiceAft

That is a great suggestion about the boat hook!

From our experiences so far on the estuaries in SC and our trip on Lake Champlain VT we found that the valve was a bit awkward to operate , both while static and while underway. The boat hook would work while we are static but I’d have difficulty doing that while underway without taking eyes off of the surroundings.

(We like the stability that the full ballast affords when motoring or sailing and would never sail without it being full.
The challenge is the occasional times when we are motoring with the mast down/removed and circumstances desire us to lose ballast so that we can make faster transit time. Motoring along with the drain and vent open will effectively allow the ballast water to drain out but then one needs to close the valve to keep it from refilling. Hence our desire to work out an arrangement that can allow us to do it while seated and operating the vessel at the same time… as in the cable system.)

The boat hook is definitely better than what we’ve been doing so far!

Best Regards
Over Easy

(1) Boy oh boy; you want everything

(2) You want your cake and eat it too.

(3) When you get hungry, you expect to open your mouth, and a roast duck will fly in.

Pick one

NiceAft wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 5:01 pm I no longer lean over the transom to open or close the valve. I use my boat hook to pull up, and the cushion on the end of the hook to push down.

We use this:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KNB ... UTF8&psc=1

Can't drop it overboard and don't have to find it or put it away afterward.

Starscream wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 5:45 pm

NiceAft wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 5:01 pm I no longer lean over the transom to open or close the valve. I use my boat hook to pull up, and the cushion on the end of the hook to push down.

We use this:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00KNB ... UTF8&psc=1

Can't drop it overboard and don't have to find it or put it away afterward.

That works too.

NiceAft wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 5:01 pm I no longer lean over the transom to open or close the valve. I use my boat hook to pull up, and the cushion on the end of the hook to push down.

A pair of prescription sun glasses and a very expensive cell phone should have taught me not to lean over the transom to close that valve. I still do it but I don't put things in my shirt pocket anymore when I'm on the boat.

NiceAft wrote: ↑Wed Dec 15, 2021 5:44 pm (1) Boy oh boy; you want everything

(2) You want your cake and eat it too.

(3) When you get hungry, you expect to open your mouth, and a roast duck will fly in.

Pick one

Could you make that with the Orange sauce please?