1" or 25mm (doesn't matter) should have a small concave on the underside, so it contacts the mast along two lines and therefore won't rock. I think Schaefer is the lowest cost, but that may (probably) depend(s) on where you buy it. The ring car will cost more than the track.
But if you're only using the working jib, you don't really need to adjust the ring. Run the pole out all the way, and unfurl the jib completely, attach the outboard end to the sheet, and set the ring to where the pole is level.
That's how I set my big boat up. With the pole extended, I could furl the jib most of the way (but not completely), but that was enough. A patch of sail extended when sailing downwind was fine, as the pole and the wind would hold it forward, so it was completely de-powered, and I could then go forward and release the line control to collapse the pole. So if the pole is extended to more than the length of the foot, it will simply hold the clew forward until you release the pole, and it doesn't matter what angle the pole takes with the sail rolled onto the furler.
For downwind sailing with the working jib on an

(hardly a racing machine), it really only matters that the pole is horizontal with the jib fully out, at whatever pole extension is best.
I'm not suggesting you shouldn't have a car and track system, but it's a lot of money, and the Forespar 12' twistlock whisker pole actually comes with a Lexan or Maralon ring for the mast. A track and car could almost double the cost. But if you want to use a track,
if it were me, I set the track so the jib clew has the car at or near the top of the track, and the genoa (which I think has a lower clew) would then require the car at a lower elevation, so you'd have to test both to find where a short track (the shortest that will work) should land, before buying track (a 2 footer may be adequate) and drilling holes.
And do consider adding ends to the track, so there aren't any sharp corners for the genoa to get ripped by.