MacGregorSailors.com

dxg4848 wrote: May be the way to go is to install new thru-hull 4" higher with just sink hose connected to it, then permanently plug motor well drain and existing thru-hull. Then drill motor well drain hole through transom next to outboard mount.

I thought of this also. The motor well drain seems to clog constantly anyway. If I were more talented, I would also think building something to raise the "floor" of the motor well so it's flush with the transom and water could simply flow over the back.

A proper seacock out the transom would seem to be a first step. The factory hoses (ribbed) seem flimsy and a good place for failure. Perhaps simply beefing up the hoses and seacock would be a good solution.

--Russ

K9Kampers wrote:The cork sheared in half as I was pulling it out, then the rest fell apart as I tried to corkscrew it out!

A sailboat is not properly equipped without a corkscrew!

Not to threadjack here, but since you mention corkscrews, if you're standing around in the checkout line at "Wallyworld" anyhow, and you happen to spot one of these Spark Multi Tool Luxury Lighters in the lighters and notions racks as I did, you might do well to grab one for about 6 bucks.



Trivial as it is, in keeping with my predilection for writing up cheap-but-useful Chinese gear like semi-craptastic generators and tool kits and so forth for the benefit of other cash-strapped schlumps like me on a wafer-thin sailing budget, I'd been meaning to mention how useful this little guy has been on my 26X (enough so, that I grabbed a second one a few weeks ago). Sure, it's not a Leatherman® Wave Multi-Tool: it's just a solid-feeling butane lighter with a little flip-out knife, corkscrew and bottle opener. Its refillable lighter is actually more like a little butane torch (just the ticket for the dozens and dozens of heat-shrink wire connectors and wraps I've had to set on my own boat, AND it'll actually light that Pall Mall or stogie on deck in a breeze if you're so inclined), the bottle opener turns out to be handy for opening paint and varnish cans, and while I wouldn't want to have to hack through a fouled barge tow line with its wobbly little pen knife, with a little dressing on a sharpening stone, it's been handy enough for little stuff. Any knife can be handy. Still, my onboard go-to blade is this solid little stainless steel Maxam Sailor's Tool with knife and marlinspike doodad for just $6.79 that I've got on a lanyard. As for that corkscrew, yeah...it's now always there and ready for the Admiral's Moscato.

As for those through-hulls for the sink and cockpit well, I had never given them much thought, seeing as I'd thought of them as both being above the water line and all. The previous owner left me some various brand new ball cocks of different sorts among the random gear he was kind enough to hand over with the boat, so maybe I'll get around to fitting them in "some day." But for right now my bilge is always bone dry when I get back, no matter how much rockin' and rollin' we've had. If that changes, In a pinch I have that little collection of variously-sized wine and champagne corks that I keep in that bilge breather hole tower under the forward berth to jam into those holes from outside, if ever need be.

RussMT wrote:

dxg4848 wrote: A proper seacock out the transom would seem to be a first step. The factory hoses (ribbed) seem flimsy and a good place for failure. Perhaps simply beefing up the hoses and seacock would be a good solution.
--Russ

I was/am worring the same. BUT: How many boats are built by MacGregors? Touuuuuusends... How many times we had here on the forum problems with trou-hulls?

But again I worry why Roger didn't put both the motor well and the sink tub OBEVE the waterline. The additional coast me personally would pay with pleasure. Very strange decision...

kurz wrote:

RussMT wrote:

dxg4848 wrote: A proper seacock out the transom would seem to be a first step. The factory hoses (ribbed) seem flimsy and a good place for failure. Perhaps simply beefing up the hoses and seacock would be a good solution.
--Russ

I was/am worring the same. BUT: How many boats are built by MacGregors? Touuuuuusends... How many times we had here on the forum problems with trou-hulls?

But again I worry why Roger didn't put both the motor well and the sink tub OBEVE the waterline. The additional coast me personally would pay with pleasure. Very strange decision...

Wie gesagt, es macht mir soweit nichts aus in meinem 2001 Jg. 26Xer.

[= Like I said, it ain't been a problem in my 2001 26X]

Well, everything has a service life. When those '98 26X owners who keep their boats in saltwater start having a problem, then I know that the pressure is on to fix up my freshwater 02X.

Actually, the cockpit well drain scares me, a lot, too. When loaded for voyaging the drain hole is almost constantly under water. I added an automatic bilge pump this year, with a through-hull that exits under the galley as high up as I could reach. I forget now if it's above or below the chine.

I thought about a cork too but was warned off by a member here. Something like this might be better http://littleeaglervpark.com/zenrv/inde ... ucts_id=16

Just as a guess, I'm thinking Roger's thinking was to put the drain thru-hulls low to prevent unsightly streaks down the side of the boat.

Retcoastie wrote:Just as a guess, I'm thinking Roger's thinking was to put the drain thru-hulls low to prevent unsightly streaks down the side of the boat.

On the M, the thru hull needs to be low as water doesn't flow uphill. On the trailer, our sink drain won't drain if the boat is tilted down slightly. Roger put it in a good location, transom helps drain even at high speed motoring.

Most people probably don't have an issue.
It's those of us with bigger than 50hp motors, 24 gals of fuel and big crew that sink the aft, and the drain hole, below the water line.


--Russ

RussMT wrote:

Retcoastie wrote: It's those of us with bigger than 50hp motors, 24 gals of fuel and big crew that sink the aft, and the drain hole, below the water line.
--Russ

2011: Definitely not. Even when ballast is empty the drain hole is under water. Ok, there is 60hp motor. Thats it...

Russ wrote:

It's those of us with bigger than 50hp motors, 24 gals of fuel and big crew that sink the aft, and the drain hole, below the water line.

That would certainly prevent streaks.

I'm installing a (Ping Pong Ball Scupper) over the drain.. It'll let the water out, but won't let water in! Problem solved...

do you think it will work for a longer time?
I think about fouling will get on the ball and then it wohnt seal???

Maybe im wrong...