Help for restoring a MacGregor 26X, model year 2000

[eco]

Thank you all for your replies and photos.

I am now certain that all the connecting parts for the rudders are missing, except the link that connects the two of them together (a crossbar with 2 bends).

As far as I understand, I will need to find the brackets, etc, and whatever links are between them. I can always try to custom made them.

Herschel, thank you for the photos. Any details are very helpful especially with the sail rigging. I think (not sure) based on K9Kampers photos, his parts are the rudder parts that I need. For example paul I indicated that he has a 2000 model too, but with the previous style of rudder parts?

K9Kampers, from the photo you posted, did you remove the back sit? Is it more functional this way? Can you please send me a few more close up photos showing the rudder connecting parts and links? Some basic dimensions would be very-very helpful too.

As far as the sail rigging, I have the major parts but I still need to put them together.

[K9Kampers]

eco - I can get on that in the morning

re: the stern seat... I had left the seat off for several seasons when I was doing a lot of sailing by myself as I sit forward of the helm. With the dogs and wife onboard, I leave it on as they prefer that. Every fall I remove the seat to make it easier for framing the boat for storage.

[Tomfoolery]

The late model stainless rudder brackets are available from Blue Water Yachts. http://www.bwyachts.com/ Look for Rudder Head and Gudgeon. They also sell the aluminum units, but there's a reason they stopped using them in favor of the late model stainless.

If your browser has trouble with the parts search page, try compatability mode (if using IE). Some Firefox versions also don't work - it doesn't work on this laptop, but it does work with my work machine, both running Firefox and Windows 7.

And make a note of how many pages a search produces (near the top of the search page), as additional pages don't show at the bottom. Gets me every time.

[dlandersson]

Bear in mind that it's not a straight one-for-one swap. You'll need to change/play with the steering cables also. I looked at it and stayed with the original aluminum rudder brackets. Note that a cracked bracket is fairly easy to fix.

The late model stainless rudder brackets are available from Blue Water Yachts. http://www.bwyachts.com/ Look for Rudder Head and Gudgeon. They also sell the aluminum units, but there's a reason they stopped using them in favor of the late model stainless.

If your browser has trouble with the parts search page, try compatability mode (if using IE). Some Firefox versions also don't work - it doesn't work on this laptop, but it does work with my work machine, both running Firefox and Windows 7.

And make a note of how many pages a search produces (near the top of the search page), as additional pages don't show at the bottom. Gets me every time.

[Herschel]

Any details are very helpful especially with the sail rigging.

If you need any specific pictures of rigging, just let me know. I can go up to my boat at the marina where it stays rigged and take any pictures you need. Feel free to email me as well. I still remember the myriad of details I had to try to figure out when I first got my boat. Glad to be of help when I can.

[K9Kampers]

lost my pics album...

[DaveB]

It helps if you put the year of your boat in your profile. I have a 1997 bracket same as yours and updated to new one thru BWY.
Year 2000 had the Stainless steel bracket.
Equipment/design often changes with the Mac. , I just found out they had two steering outage location in the year 1997.
Why I mention Type and year and Hull #.
In 1997 Mac. changed the location of the steering unit forward sometime later that year.
Those who have changed steering cables on that year will vary from the early aft connection that required 12 ft cables to forward connection requiring 9 ft. cable.
This is something I never have seen mentioned on this site/ archives.
Ck out your hull number for 1997 when changes have been made.
Dave

Wow. I also have 2000 X and the rudder brackets don't look anything like yours. Did they switch mid model year? I even think the rudders themselves are shaped differently.

Thanks for saying something. I was steaming ahead at flank speed. I should have said that my X is a 1998, so, yes, some things might be different. Perhaps, you can point out the difference for the guy refitting his 2000. I'll keep throwing pictures out there of my X's gear. If you see something that is different on the 2000 model, throw that out there. Don't want to confuse him. I was just remembering how complicated the boat seemed when I first got mine. I had to keep emailing the PO for guidance.

[Ormonddude]

Do yourself a favor and inspect the swing keel and the pull line/cable I mean you may wat to drop it and really inspect it good as there is often some wear on the components

[Herschel]

Ck out your hull number for 1997 when changes have been made.

I checked my hull number, which is MACX1839J798, how would I determine if my boat had the changes you referenced?
I would assume that since it a 98, I would have the newer version of the steering cables.

[DaveB]

I just received the Uflex Rotech 9ft cable/ with steering unit.
My 1997 has cable forward for steering and will let you know if it fits. Your 1998 will probably fit, if the outlet is forward of the 1996 and some 1997.
I will take measurements in the morning .
The length is from the tip of rod to the end of cable /not including the plastic extension that's another 23 inches.
Important to know what the length your cable is, the above tells you were to measure. That has never been mentioned on cable length.
So measure your cable , my new one measures 7ft-4 inches of black tube. Hope this helps.
Dave

Ck out your hull number for 1997 when changes have been made.

I checked my hull number, which is MACX1839J798, how would I determine if my boat had the changes you referenced?
I would assume that since it a 98, I would have the newer version of the steering cables.

[eco]

Dear all once again thank you for your posts. Here are my replies:

The late model stainless rudder brackets are available from Blue Water Yachts. http://www.bwyachts.com/ Look for Rudder Head and Gudgeon...

- Thank you for the info. I found them. I am still hoping to recover the original ones. I found the person who did the removal of the sailing parts.

Bear in mind that it's not a straight one-for-one swap. You'll need to change/play with the steering cables also. I looked at it and stayed with the original aluminum rudder brackets. Note that a cracked bracket is fairly easy to fix...

- Since everything was taking apart, I have no idea how the steering cables should be. Now it has a hydraulic steering with the engine. As far I have been told, it had the stainless steel brackets.

If you need any specific pictures of rigging, just let me know...

- I will definitely need help with that and I am really thankful for your offer. I will send you an email to notify you once I will be tackling this. I still need to take it out of the marina first (for anti-fouling etc.). My plan is once I have it outside I will be able to start working on the sail rigging as well. I spent too many days tracking its history. Nowadays, I am having the trailer serviced and painted

lost my pics album...

- It happened to all of us from time to time, but thanks anyway.

Do yourself a favor and inspect the swing keel and the pull line/cable I mean you may wat to drop it and really inspect it good as there is often some wear on the components

- I will definitely do this, replace the line, strip and paint the keel, at least. When I inspected the boat it showed that it needed a good TLC under there.

I just received the Uflex Rotech 9ft cable/ with steering unit...

- I wish I could see this steering setup. Do you think it is easy to show this in a few photos? Perhaps you or someone else can post some?

I hope I did reply to all

[Herschel]

I will send you an email to notify you once I will be tackling this.

Standing by.

[eco]

Dear All here is an update:

1) The boat trailer has been finished
a) first it was disassembled to nuts and bolts. Everything was taken apart (bolts cut off, suspension leafs apart, etc).
b) cleaned from rust (use of hard twist-knot rotary power brush, descaler multi-needles air gun, high power water washer) ... yes it was really in a bad condition
c) primed with 2-3 coats anti-rust.
d) finished with 2-3 coats satin white.
e) nuts and bolts fitted with white marine grease.

2) The boat was taken out of water a few days ago.
a) Worked like a charm. Very easy to handle. Just drive the trailer back enough inside the water, and the boat almost loads itself
b) Cleaned the hull with high power water washer. The whole sea-kingdom was living under there . Now it is almost completely cleaned.
c) Next step will be some sort of sanding I assume, then priming and anti-fouling. Right?

Suggestions are most welcomed.

p.s.
The rudder parts mentioned in earlier post are still missing, but the previous owners promised to look again.

[eco]

...Standing by.

I sure will, although it will take me sometime to sort things out (before I will bother you on this).

[Herschel]

it will take me sometime to sort things out (before I will bother you on this)

Roger that! Santa has a few things for me to do to keep busy this time of year. Just let me know when I can help. I am impressed with the thoroughness of your trailer rehab. Just went through most of that with a little trailer for my 10 ft O'Day Sprite. Did not take the springs apart, but got real familiar with my grinder and replaced every moving part but the axle! The Admiral let me take a picture. Every boat picture needs a pretty girl in it, right?