MacGregorSailors.com

Etec 135

POWER & PERFORMANCE
What’s the goal of power and performance? Simple. Beat everything on the water in everything from speed and torque to fuel efficiency. Whether you’re running slow, fast or anywhere in between.

Instant throttle response
When you say jump, we jump. Out of the hole and across the entire performance curve. Not just select points. The key is that every revolution is a power stroke. That means twice the power strokes of a four stroke. Plus, the computer-controlled engine management system delivers the perfect fuel mix directly to the combustion chamber for hair-trigger response.
Less fuel
The engine management system makes more than 8 million calculations per second. You get the precise amount of fuel you need at any given rpm. Not a droplet more. A big advantage when you’re running big water. Plus, you’re buying 87 octane fuel – not premium, like some two- and four-strokes require.
High torque
The natural two-stroke advantage combined with our super-natural fuel-injection and combustion system. That’ll give you up to 23% more torque than a comparable Yamaha four-stroke. Hole shots? More like sling shots.
High horsepower
Our horses never hold back. You get to your running speed faster. You hold it more consistently. Even when you’re pounding big waves on big water.
Less weight, more power
You’re on plane faster, with less bow rise so you can see the open water in front of you. Simply better control and better handling.

DURABILITY & RELIABILITY
More time on the water. It starts with more time on the engineering table. Every part, every system is designed, built and tested to go the distance. We put a lot more in. You get a lot more out.

Easy starts
First time, every time, with one revolution of the flywheel. No choking, no priming, no swearing.
No break-in period
You go flat-out, right out the box, thanks to our boron-nitrate cylinder bores. It’s your time on the water. Don’t waste a second of it breaking in a four stroke.
Fewer parts, more peace of mind
No belts, camshafts or exhaust valves to break down. You can go a lot farther, knowing your engine will get you back.
Parts that last
Low-friction design for greater performance and longer life, under any load. Parts that are built better, tested longer.
Fail-safe protection
In the event of an overheat or other anomaly, the engine automatically reduces power to protect your investment, giving you a big five-hour window to get back without incurring engine damage.
High performance iridium plugs
More efficient spark, smoother running, longer life.
Sealed fuel system
Air can’t get in. Fuel won’t evaporate. No more gummed-up fuel systems. Your engine is well protected during storage.
Bigger alternators
Nearly twice the available amperage of competitive engines. Run more accessories with more confidence.

CLEAN & QUIET
Evinrude® E-TEC® is about creating memories, not pollution. Fact is, we’re unbeatable on clean and quiet performance, even against four-strokes. We’ve passed them all. And they never heard us coming.

Lower emissions
Three stars from the toughest emission standard in the world – the California Air Resources Board. Plus, we’re the only outboard to win the EPA Clean Air Excellence Award. No other brand of outboards produces fewer reportable emissions than the Evinrude E-TEC family of engines.
In-tune with the environment
No oil changes. No worries about disposal or where the oil ends up. Plus every drop of oil in the fuel mix goes into combustion, not the air or water. You’re saving money and the environment.
No smoke
Thanks to the advanced fuel and oil injection systems. You’ll breathe a lot easier when you’re out cruising a shoreline or trolling a weedline.
Less vibration
Stratified combustion for incredibly smooth low-end performance. An engine that’s born to troll.
Less noise
Comparable to the quietest four-strokes, thanks to our acoustically tuned intake and exhaust and 3-dimensional foam lining. Makes for easier conversation and extra stealth when you’re tossing baits.

SPECIFICATIONS
135 H.O. - Model-specific elements
MODEL WEIGHT SHAFT LENGTH
E135HSL 418 lbs /
190 kgs 20" /
508 mm
E135DHL 418 lbs /
190 kgs 20" /
508 mm
E135HCX 433 lbs /
196 kgs 25" /
635 mm
E135DHX 433 lbs /
196 kgs 25" /
635 mm
Common Elements
Limited Warranty 3 Years Non-Declining
Engine type Loop-Charged V6 60° E-TEC
Displacement 158.2 cu in/2592 cc
Recommended fuel 87 Octane
Emissions compliance CARB 3 Star, U.S EPA, European Union
Recommended Oil Evinrude/Johnson XD100™ Oil
Propshaft HP Factory Tuned for High Performance
Full Throttle RPM Range 5300-6000 RPM
Alternator output Variable Voltage Computer Controlled 133 Amp / 1800W output with Regulator
Fuel induction E-TEC Direct Fuel Injection with stratified low RPM combustion mode
Lubrication Pinpoint oiling
Bore x Stroke 3.6 x 2.588 in / 91 x 66 mm

My 75
400lbs
1600cc

So the 135 has so much more whooaa for just a few pounds more wt.

No brainer

I can't wait for an excuse to slap that bad boy back there.....

G

Thanks for that Beene just when I was staring to feel comfortable with my decision to get the 60 again

My Merc 50 HP = 228 lbs.

Thppppppp.

beene wrote:My 75
400lbs
1600cc

So the 135 has so much more whooaa for just a few pounds more wt.

No brainer

I can't wait for an excuse to slap that bad boy back there.....

G

dlandersson wrote:My Merc 50 HP = 228 lbs.

Thppppppp.

beene wrote:My 75
400lbs
1600cc

So the 135 has so much more whooaa for just a few pounds more wt.

No brainer

I can't wait for an excuse to slap that bad boy back there.....

G

I was going to ask what the offsetting beneficial result would be of dropping down in weight by going smaller. Is there not a significant downside to hanging 400+ pounds back there when the design was for closer to 200?

So about over powering a hull that's already marginal to begin with...
What type of transom upgrade must be done to mount that 135 motor on there?
What about the bottom where the boat first hits the waves? Is that thick enough to handle the extra speed?
Ix

If u r thinking of pounding that boat through rough sea,s better get one of these kidney belts on cause ur liver & kidneys will be be taking a bigger pounding which will be giving u a lot more health problems later on in life a short time down the road !

Just saying & keep yer mouth shut or u maybe loosing some teeth or shattering a jaw bone regardless of which boat u r on including a deep V hull or coast guard rescue

J
PS Thats not including the pounding & shock impacts that will be going on inside ur skull & wondering why u r having migraine headaches for the next 2 wks or more !!
Just saying !

Ok. I'm gonna try & catch up here:
Re dl... & Tomf...:
I'm waiting for the Marina to make a double motor trade in value that I can't refuse. If I were putting them up for pvt sale I'd go as follows: '06 (290hrs) @ $4200- 4800, '10 (390hrs) @ $5500- 5900. I've already paid to have them serviced. & they'd come with their respective controls & cables.

Trade in otherwise saves me sales tax & headaches but I'll be happy to direct real intere$t to my shop via PM.

Starscream: I owe u an apology & a half. For not replying to ur 90hp inquiries
I didn't think my #'s speed & otherwise were really representative of a 90 period. & I thought my experiences would taint ur expectations. So I abstained & watched ur results. & my 18mph is unballasted

Beene: Brother, ur opening up a Whole can o' Whoop ass introducing a 420# V6
I wouldn't be that far away weight wise @ 390... It's more a dollar & "sense" (transom & sinking aft) issue, for me anyway. Besides, I'd "pass go" & stop at the 'buck fifty

I think the elephant just farted in the room & now we can't ignore that, triple digit HP should be on the table to anyone considering repowering

& Gabby I'll answer shortly with a new post
Thank u all
P.S. No belts nor pounding J.

Now why these extra HP & Torq
Well if u do get caught out there no 50hp is gonna get u up & over any steep close 15-18ft swells the bigger eng with more torq will @ wot from bot to crest then throttle back for the surf down the other side ,
u can go like a bat outa hull in rough sea,s with long wide 12-15ft swell,s like 45ft apart or more its like riding a teeter totter or roller coaster but once they start to break @ the crest u r gonna have to slow down or u will pound any boat & urself to death !!
There is all kinda reasons for having lots of Torq & HP when u decide u need it , fun times , bad weather approaching get the hull outa there before the sh-t happens & be able to get to a nice safe haven instead of being stuck somewhere on the hook u do not wanna be , getting into a marina as the evening approaches before everyone else & getting that last slip Geff & I have done that so many times its laughable ,
going against tides etc !!

Well had my rat now see ya

J

Short of running from storms, I find this quote also true:

All that being said I still tend to run at 6 knots 90 percent of the time because running with very little noise is so much nicer and the journey is as much fun as the destination.

-DarNJ

Then again sometimes I have ADHD...

I feel like Quint in Jaws when he's banging on the throttle trying to will his boat to go faster -just before it breaks down...

This is the closest I've seen to my #'s & I'm not that happy

http://www.evinrude.com/Content/Pdf/neu ... /PE629.pdf

Gazmn,

18mph unballasted makes it sound like there is something wrong with your motor setup: if our motors are producing the same power your X would have to be significantly heavier unballasted than mine is with full ballast. While you sure have a lot of stuff on there, is that really a possibility? With 2 adults and 3 kids and camping gear on board, I WOT at 20mph with ballast. Actually, if I empty the whole boat out and run solo, I still get 20mph ballasted and 24 mph unballasted. The extra several hundred pounds makes essentially no difference. However I once went out with six solid adults, beer, holding tanks, etc. and that brought me down to 18/19 mph with ballast.

I am sure you have been through all the prop options? I currently have a 14x11x3 Bombardier aluminum prop that turns at around 5k RPM. I tried a Piranha composite 14x11x3 prop and lost a lot of speed while gaining RPM. Your post on the Hunter Edge just convinced me to try a 14x9 next year to see if I can maybe get another 300-400 RPM and maybe a mph more. I don't believe Hunter's numbers for a second...it's like Macgregor talking about 20+mph with a 50 horse. The tests were surely rigged in the boats' favor.

VKMaynard posted something about a specialized prop that, if I remember correctly, was fabricated for his boat and helped get him to 30mph? Victor if you read this can you remind us of the détails, or maybe I'm imagining things?

Gazmn, how high does your boat float in the water...or maybe I should say how low? With 6 adults on board and ballast in, my cockpit drain hole in the back of the transom is submerged more often that not, when anchored in light waves. Under those heavily loaded conditions I have noticed the "pit" backfilling with water during wave action then draining out again. Amost gave me heart failure the first time I saw that happening.

Given all the evidence out there, I have to suspect your motor is not performing as it should. If I was you I would probably try the other 90HP before investing in the 115. At least that way you could isolate if it's your boat or the motor, assuming you have a good prop.

Is your motor mounted at the same height as mine? It's a bit hard to see in this photo but have a look:


From the picture you posted in the Summer 2014 thread, it's hard to see how your motor is mounted: there's a black blob in the photo that could be anything.

It really seems like there is a lot of power variations with the Etec90. There are a few old posts about someone in Australia actually having Bombardier reprogram the motor to get another 10 or so HP out of it, and then there's Bahamabound, who's Etec90 can swing a 14x15 prop or something crazy like that. I'm somewhere in the middle.

Oh, and the dealer seems to have fixed the starting problem. "loose battery wire" according to them although I am not sure how that makes any sense: the motor often would crank for a long time but just wouldn't fire when it was cold. When it was warm it would usually fire right up, but sometimes would take a few tries. Anyway, whatever they did, I went to winterize it on the trailer a couple of days ago and it fired right up in near freezing temps...so here's hoping that that problem is gone.

Starscream wrote:Gazmn,


Given all the evidence out there, I have to suspect your motor is not performing as it should. If I was you I would probably try the other 90HP before investing in the 115. At least that way you could isolate if it's your boat or the motor, assuming you have a good prop.

Is your motor mounted at the same height as mine? It's a bit hard to see in this photo but have a look:

From the picture you posted i18mph unballasted makes it sound like there is something wrong with your motor setup: if our motors are producing the same power your X would have to be significantly heavier unballasted than mine is with full ballast.

It really seems like there is a lot of power variations with the Etec90. There are a few old posts about someone in Australia actually having Bombardier reprogram the motor to get another 10 or so HP out of it, and then there's Bahamabound, who's Etec90 can swing a 14x15 prop or something crazy like that. I'm somewhere in the middle.

Gabby_SC wrote:Gazmn, Sorry for taking this thread in another direction. Could you tell me about your picture in the 2014 Summer pics. Is that a setback or a jackplate between the stern and engine?

This is relevant to Starscream too so I'll reply here rather than start a new thread. It's a 10" jackplate which raised my eng roughly 5"s. & freed up the back porch. See mod.



Starscream your boat & eng are a few inches higher in the water. Re: the below waterline hole.
I have that prob too. & it scares the hull out of me too. Im thinking of plugging it to be safe.
I raised my bottom paint line to above ur black stripe -notice I dont have stripe.
The water level comes up to the bottom of my white bracket
Im considering raising bottom pain line again.

This is the boat in water at mechanics. You can get an idea of my float line. I lightened the pic so you can see better.

Thanks for that. Somehow it's comforting for others to be having the same problems as I am.

When you go to sell your boat, you can tell the potential buyers that it used to be owned by Carlos the Diamond Smuggler. "Boat's in excellent shape but doesn't accelerate too well, almost like there were weights hidden in the bilge or something".

While talking to my dealer about my disappointment with top speed, we discussed the vertical position of the motor with regards to the waterline. While I didn't follow the reasoning exactly the takeaway was that the vertical position in the water was very critical and there are some important guidelines to follow: too deep or too shallow and performance will suffer.

Your prop looks a bit beat up in the photos. Curious to know your prop size & RPM

Does the stabilizer plate help things?

I think I am going to plug that cockpit drain-hole as well. Some sort of removable thing that I can put in easily when going out on a loaded boat. I wonder if I can tap a thread into the fiberglass or if I should just save a wine cork.

kadet wrote:Thanks for that Beene just when I was staring to feel comfortable with my decision to get the 60 again

LOL

G