Winterize Suzuki DF50

[Wind Chime]

Seahouse - ya that's what he said; Suzuki is moving away from the "quick-connect" hose, and going "hard-wired" onto the engine.
I would think a certified dealer would have the latest inside knowlege, but in this day and age of online global information ... you never know.

[yukonbob]

Probably the high pass line. If you follow the fuel from the quick connect one goes through a low pass filter with clamps, the other goes through the high pass filer to the fuel rails that are hard wired. I'm no mechanic but i've done the low pass a couple times without problem. I am still waiting for the high pass to come in beofe I install.
Also gonna try and throw an external water seperator in that will take any impurities out ($16 filter $60 parts) rather than a $15 and $60 filter every couple of years. This will also combine both 12g tanks and draw from both simultaneously, so no more switching tanks, stuck connectors, or imbalnced boat.

[Wind Chime]

Yukonbob - I am no mechanic either, but have read my service manual cover to cover many times so I have a general idea of what you are talking about with the low and hi pass filters.

We pay around $430 (CAD) every time we get the full tune-up, which includes the works (fuel filters as well), so looking forward to your mod. I’ve seen the mod with the A/B tank selector switch, but can you draw fuel from both tanks equally?

Ps.
I currently do the "fuel tank switch dance" with the manual hoses, I’ve got it down now to where I don’t need to turn off the engine 

[yukonbob]

I plan on running a line from each tank to the H2O seperator. It goes through the filter then to the tank. I asked when I bought it if it would combine and was told it would (that was the selling point for me). I have aslo been manually changing tanks, and can do it on the fly, but I ususally wait until the tank is empty ro close to. Ill try to remeber to snap a pic tonight of the filter setup.

[davidbourne]

Seahouse - ya that's what he said; Suzuki is moving away from the "quick-connect" hose, and going "hard-wired" onto the engine.

Just to confirm, my 2012 Suzuki 90 is "hard wired" on the engine end. And I put a more common Evinrude/Johnson "quick-connect" fitting on the gas tank end because it's the most universal and easily replaceable in my area.

Yukonbob - I'm interested to see the external water filter mod, too. How often do you plan to change the internal filter after you install it?

[seahouse]

Yukonbob- your post makes more sense to me if I substitute "pressure" for "pass"- referring to the two pressure lines of fuel injected engines- is that what you mean?

Good idea the water separator. Just one batch of watery gas will make the separator worthwhile, and the dedicated larger filter will take more water/dirt before needing to be changed- a long interval if your gas is good.

The E-tec I noticed has a transparent low pressure filter, mounted on its side, so water (or debris) will visually show if it builds up- I'll have to keep an eye on that - 'still clean and clear after 3 seasons.

You will still need a valve (off, 1, 2, both; before the separator) to control your two tank withdrawals- say, for example, for when one tank is empty, you will want to prevent it from sucking air, or to balance the amount of fuel between the two tanks.

-B.

[yukonbob]

Yup hi pass = high pressure. That's it. I change mine as per owners manual inst. Good thought on the shut off. Will probably hardwire the gas line from the tank to the separator and put a brass ball valve at each tank that way its easy to get at. Still have to find a suitable mounting position. thinking centred in the transom, but it may get stepped on…on the side is another option but looks terrible and is still in the way...

Even if I have to change the main separator filter at 16 bucks once every other year and double the life out of my engine filters and possible prevent either one from clogging and engine damage, and combined tanks = awesome

Might not get to it this year unless it warms up a little. Don't want to drill FG or apply sealant in the cold. But I may mock it up inside the install in spring. Figure it should be less than two hours have never done it before. Pretty easy mod... if it works...

[Russ]

On the subject of fuel line, I realized this is a very fragile piece of hardware. Our motors depend so much in this little hunk of hose. So I bought a spare fuel line to keep on board. Mine is not hard wired, so the spare has quick disconnects on each end for fast replacement in an emergency.

I've also gotten proficient at switching tanks without shutting off the engine.

--Russ

[seahouse]

Yeah - there's plenty of time to switch the tanks over (by unplugging one tank, then plugging into the second), even while running at full throttle. I do this often, and it will work with any outboard I've encountered (over the last several decades), without any problem. There's no opportunity to mix up lines, or have a valve set in the incorrect position.

If you're curious about this, to prove it to yourself in a safe area, just unplug one tank and leave it off, and see how long the engine runs before it stops. You have that much time, minus a few seconds, to switch the tanks over. The engine continues to run for a while on the fuel already in the fuel line, filter(s), pump(s), fuel rails or carb bowl, engine parts, etc. If you do do this test, squeeze the primer bulb to ensure a faster restart. (There also might be a specific dry restart procedure for your particular outboard, so check your manual first).


BTW- I keep one tank fuller than the other normally, so when I set out to motor to a (not too distant) destination, I'll use the more empty tank first. When I arrive, if I have some fuel left, I'll either use a bit more of it, and then switch during the trip back, or switch immediately for the return trip. If I run low on fuel on the way there, I'll know I don't have enough onboard for the return trip, and need to get fuel in order return to home port.

Doing it this way I always have a non technology-based knowledge that I have enough fuel to return, plus a safety margin, without any calculations or "guesstimating" of fuel burn and fuel remaining. Refueling locations are few and far between around here.

Also BTW - I also found that when motoring on plane the boat takes a bow-high attitude, so in order to make maximum use of all the fuel in the tanks, they need to be elevated (propped up with something) at the rear slightly to make them level.

-B.