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Great idea guys and sorry to the guy who dosent enjoy the smiles faces here is one for u now that u are happy that idea of Heavy beats extract water they use to fill tiers in tractors i just might check that out. one more cool idea would be to some how install a movabel part on the swing keel to expand on one side and creating more a wing on command from a simple rope tug would open a wing slot that would use airodynamic force to pull boat back where it needs it most or just fill it lead wonderfull ideas guys im all on it

I would be hesitant to do the wing bit. It could easily be more of a drag then an asset. If the winglets are not perfectly in line with the water flow, you pretty much have a hydro-brake device. The trim of the boat would also change depending on loading, thus affecting the water flow over the wings negatively. Possible.
I might go for 50 pounds of lead in the daggger board of my M model just to help eliminate the lift the board generates
As it moves thru the water. This probable contributes to heel, given the M has a round hull with like zero form stability.
I don't think 50 lbs would strain anything ESP. If I moved the stop knot so the dagger board went down eight inches less. Toss up? Less depth but more weight? Who knows.
I can tell you this. Bilge keels or rails would help alot. Leeway resistance but without the heel. Done correctly, they would also improve the planning ability of the boat, but a lot of though would have to go into the placement and size.

Ixneigh

DaveB wrote:I took out my centerboard as I found the head was split were they fitted the two pieces together. I put 3 layers or mat and featered it out so no one can see it has been repaired. I than mixed up a gal. of polyester resin 1/2 gal. at a time) and pumped it into the weep holes on both sides and let it settle to the bottom of centerboard than once hard I end for end it and pored remaining 2 quarts in the head board , I taped off the bolt holes once it was close to them and redrilled.
I did it to reinforce the inside of the board. There is still hollow area close to the weep hole but I was trying to balance weight. I probably added 9 lbs of Resin and board is much stronger.
I also changed centerboard line to all braded haveing a rigger splice in a very tight eye for the bolt to pass thru.
I need a roller at the deck to make it much easier lifting the centerboard.
You can add lead pellits and resin in but you will need some kind of lifting device (maybe a 3-4 to 1 pully).
Probably around 100 lbs lead would be max. that would fit in and I think there are cross sections that could prevent the pellits from getting to bottom.
Dave

comi_cozi wrote: any body have tried to make the keel a bit more Heavy on the that would greatly improve helling and sailing handaling cheracteristics even if its 200 pounds it would drop a down and at that distance i think it would count for allot more then 200pounds making it a Sailing motor sailer (notice the emphasis on the Sailing part What do u guys/Galls think and not to mention would be abel to track closer in to the wind and the kiel would protect the leed and thus lead would not rust. i think i like this mod allot and only adds 200 pounds to the trailer

Dave, I hole sawed 1.5" holes in the CB of a Hunter 22 and filled the holes with lead pieces and epoxy-added about 40# and it worked great. I did have to use a 3:1 block as 40# at the tip of a 5' CB was a bear to raise. I also up graded the pin and repaired the hole same as you did. At least we have a winch to help

I think it's time to drop my board and do your fix (I'm pretty sure it's due) and am considering adding a 2.5" stationary keel extending from the CB trunk to the transom as old age = more E-tec time

Bob

Our centerboard is on the kitchen floor right now. How much lead can I add without redesigning the pivot points. I reckon bout 25Kg and some plate work up at the lifting eye.
Almost as important is getting the keel to stop clunking so we can benefit from more peaceful nights at anchor. Again, something that needs to be approached gingerly as it would be easy to stop it clunking, but to not set up more stress than the hull was designed for means some pretty careful calculations of tapers. Don't want the thing jamming up either because of a bit of sand.

If I could source cheap pellets I would pour them in and seal them in place with resin. There is very little advantage in using anything other than lead as ballast. Resin is a similar weight order to water, so though it may feel heavy, once submeged it is a different story. Even concrete! (I was reading about mooring blocks/hooks and anchor chums/angels)

Regarding wings, I considered having a s.steel plate on the end of the lifting line that when the cb was down would hinge down n aft, giving a good surface area against leeway, as well as some low down weight. When pulling the plot up, the wing would pull in first, then all up. A good idea, but the engineering would be pretty massive. I'd do it if my life depended on it...

Anyway, I'll post developments as they develop.