MacGregorSailors.com

On a sheet bend, always loop the larger line and tie with the smaller. If in doubt, double the wrap on the smaller line. refer to the illustration.

~Rich

trdprotruck wrote:Since there is a ferule (metal slug) keeping the halyard in the luff track, you can attach any diameter messenger line to the couple of inches of the halyard end not in track and attach it outside of the plastic luff. Wow that was kinda hard to put in words.

-Randy

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I'm going to look for the "ferule (metal slug) tonight when I visit the boat but I believe I am missing this piece. I hope I can work around that if it's missing.

You wont find any feral slugs I hope.....

I went to the boat this evening and discovered that I do not have the "metal ferrule" nor is any attached to the length of thin dacron rope that I would use as my halyard.

So, I am SOL on this and have decided to drive the boat over to a nearby harbour some day soon where there's a rigging shop and an experienced sailmaker who knows all about CDI furlers who will help me figure out exactly what ferrule I need to order from CDI and also help me (later when it arrives) set up my furler properly once and for all.

I found the original manual stowed on the boat -- "CDI Flexible Furler 2" dated March 1998 -- and it referred to a "luff support pin" that I'm sure I'm missing and also recommend the use of toggles at the top and bottom of the forestay, which I don't think I'm using. The manual also refers to a "decored" end of the halyard which doesn't seem to fit with the rope I have on hand...

So there are a bunch of issues here and I'm concerned enough about possible demasting that I'm going to get professional guidance on this. (I recall the sailmaker who repaired my job last winter commenting that the furler wasn't set up properly in the first place, which spooked me.)

All that being said, I would LOVE to see some decent resolution close-up photos of the top and bottom of someone's set-up so I can better visualize the end product. The old black and white manual has grainy images that are practically useless. Even the diagram of all the parts has the letter "H" pointing to what I believe is the metal ferrule, but doesn't list anything for "H" in the corresponding list of items. Oy vay!

The luff support pin will bear the weight of the part above it, and needs to be removed to allow full access to the turnbuckle underneath. It does not function to stop the furling drum assembly from lifting off the main bearing. I came across this and thought it was a defect until I studied the construction. You can lift the assembly off the bearing with hand pressure, but if it lifts at any other time, like when sailing, then it is likely that something else not set correctly.

The jib sheet blocks (leads, cars) can be moved forward on their track when the jib is reefed to maintain a more downward force on the furler, which has the added benefit of better sail shape.

My manual might be different (newer) than yours, but it suggests adding a piece of PVC tubing over the top of the forestay between the top fitting and the mast, with 1/4" of play, if you still experience problems.

My manual also calls "H" a little metal ferrule swaged on halyard.

- Brian.

enufsed wrote:
I found the original manual stowed on the boat -- "CDI Flexible Furler 2" dated March 1998 -- and it referred to a "luff support pin" that I'm sure I'm missing and also recommend the use of toggles at the top and bottom of the forestay, which I don't think I'm using. The manual also refers to a "decored" end of the halyard which doesn't seem to fit with the rope I have on hand...

Sounds like you do not have the original sail halyard with the furler installed. So unless you can gerryrig the line to keep from pulling out of the luff when sail is raised, I would recommed just calling CDI or BWY and get an entire new halyard. You will need some shot cord (small nylon line that usually comes in spools and different colors, found a local hardware stores) to use as a messenger when the luff furler is fully installed and your raising the sail.

enufsed wrote: So there are a bunch of issues here and I'm concerned enough about possible demasting that I'm going to get professional guidance on this. (I recall the sailmaker who repaired my job last winter commenting that the furler wasn't set up properly in the first place, which spooked me.):?

Once you get the jist of the CDI FF2, it is really a pretty simple install. Like another said, you should be able to push the luff up by hand over the forestay, but not so much as to have it removed from its slot in the furling spool. There should be a pin with ring in the spool as well. This is a support for the lower edge of the luff, and keeps the luff from falling too far in the spool, and possibly spinning the forestay turn buckle.

One more thing,, when you raise the sail, if it doesn't go all the way up when the new halyard with SS furel, then shorten the other end of the halyard by re-tie'ing the bowline at the head of the sail and hoist sail until it fits right. Then cut off some of the excess bitter end of the halyard.

Hi rtrinkle.

You wrote "There should be a pin with ring in the spool as well. This is a support for the lower edge of the luff, and keeps the luff from falling too far in the spool, and possibly spinning the forestay turn buckle."

As simple as this install is, these words really give me a chill.

I realize that in the spring I found a thin aluminum pin on the ground near my boat and didn't know what it was. I realize now this is probably the luff support pin (because its position on the ground corresponded perfectly with where the bottom of the furler hovered above it, tied to the mast for winter storage).

As for this other "pin with ring in the spool" -- I don't know what this looks like. And this appears to be a real safety matter.

I'm at the point of wanting someone to take some clear digital photos of the top and (especially) the bottom of their CDI furler so I can visualize these components. It's almost criminal how poor the CDI installation manual is.

enufsed wrote:Hi rtrinkle.

You wrote "There should be a pin with ring in the spool as well. This is a support for the lower edge of the luff, and keeps the luff from falling too far in the spool, and possibly spinning the forestay turn buckle."

As simple as this install is, these words really give me a chill.

I realize that in the spring I found a thin aluminum pin on the ground near my boat and didn't know what it was. I realize now this is probably the luff support pin (because its position on the ground corresponded perfectly with where the bottom of the furler hovered above it, tied to the mast for winter storage).

As for this other "pin with ring in the spool" -- I don't know what this looks like. And this appears to be a real safety matter.

I'm at the point of wanting someone to take some clear digital photos of the top and (especially) the bottom of their CDI furler so I can visualize these components. It's almost criminal how poor the CDI installation manual is.

If memory serves me well, my luff support pin is a stainless steel pin. Its about 3/16" diameter and about 2" long. It gets inserted into the spool (furling drum assembly), about 2" below the top of the spool. It is a headed, stainless steel pin, with a small hole on the non-headed side to insert a locking ring (the little rings like on a car's key chain) that keeps the pin from coming out.

On the CDI FF2 manual is is Ref C in the parts list (C Luff Support Pin (3/16” x 2 1/32”) 2009). Here's the manual on the website - http://www.sailcdi.com/sailpdf/FF2%20manual%207_06.pdf

You can probably pick one of these up at any marine store with these dimensions. Just make sure its headed, and had the ability to use a locking ring to keep it from coming out.

I did a Google image search for CDI FF2, and saw some pretty good reference pictures that might help as well. Unfortunately, I won't be at the boat this or next weekend. Heading the Nags Head, trailering our Hobie Cat. Hoping to get some nice wind there.

However, if you are still having the issue after I return, the next time I'm at the boat, I'll take some pictures and let you know.

And yes, it can be a safety matter. I read a thread on this site, where a sailor's mast fell because the turnbuckle locking pin broke and the furler unscrewed the turnbuckle. I use 2 split cotter pins on the turnbuckle, and inspect them each month to ensure they are not broken under the furler. Haven't had a problem yet, but it keeps peace of mind when looking forward and seeing that furler winding and unwinding each weekend.

Hey rtrinkle, I'll try to get some pics also, possibly a video - my boat's still on the hard in the yard (but it won't be for long!!!!).
I don't know that I can get a pic of the top, which is quite simple, really, but the bottom will be easy.

Also, the furler will work just fine with the halyard line you have without a metal ferrule - it's just a small thin metal band clamped around the rope - and it just keeps the rope in the luff track while you're pulling it down. Without the little metal ferrule, you'll just have to be sure you pull "straight" along the luff when you pull (as though it was in the track), and when you're done, make sure the rope is hiding in the luff...that's all the metal piece does. Be not afraid - the rope is what holds the tension, not the metal piece.

I have posted a few pics before of the parts of the drum disassembled...let's see...HERE! This might help you get a feel for how simple it is...the "luff support pin" is shown in those pics also.

enufsed,

Hey there,, Vizwhiz posted a good post with a link that shows the furler and luff support pin. It illustrates it very well. The little hole by his thumb is where the luff support pin gets inserted.

According to him, you should also be okay without the band around the halyard. I was thinking the halyard might creep out of the luff without it,, but I guess you should be good.

Robert

Okay, my furler is assembled and working properly now!

I followed the advice here and my main breakthrough was visiting Dowsar Marine in Hamilton that has a display of all the different models of CDI furlers, including mine. I was able to view exactly how things are supposed to be set up, including the luff support pin (which was what I had found lying on the ground this spring beside my boat, and thankfully kept).

I don't think I would have paid the outrageous $69 for the new halyard with the metal slug if I'd known it was only to keep the line inside the plastic extrusion while raising the sail. In fact, I installed everything with the furler and sail off the boat and on the ground, and was glad for that.

It was tricky feeding the soft rope through the black plastic cap at the top of the furler, and I had to improvise with some bent wire to pull it through. After that it was easy to use that same wire (pushed through the end of the rope and twisted a number of times) to pull the halyard line down the length of the extrusion.

So all is good now.

My only concern are these comments about the turnbuckle inside the bottom drum somehow coming apart. That's an element that all Mac owners need to think about. I think it'd be very worthwhile for someone here to take a series of pictures and a write a detailed step-by-step instruction about how to inspect this and what to look for. Something idiot proof for people like me!

enfused - there should be a hole in the end of the threaded part that is in the turnbuckle...you just twist a small piece of stainless wire through that hole and around the body of the turnbuckle to keep it from turning. That's the main issue - people adjust them and then forget to wire them again, and they can un-do themselves over time...wire it up once you've adjusted the length to what you want, and you'll be fine!
Happy Sailing!

vizwhiz wrote:enfused - there should be a hole in the end of the threaded part that is in the turnbuckle...you just twist a small piece of stainless wire through that hole and around the body of the turnbuckle to keep it from turning. That's the main issue - people adjust them and then forget to wire them again, and they can un-do themselves over time...wire it up once you've adjusted the length to what you want, and you'll be fine!
Happy Sailing!

I will check that sometime soon. I've had the mast up and down quite a few times recently and can't stand the thought of doing it again right away. But I will check it. I hope that I can raise the black plastic piece above the drum enough to see the bottom of the turnbuckle -- things are fitting pretty tight and I don't have a lot of room at the top of the furler either. I'd prefer not to have to dismantle the whole thing.

You need remove the luff support pin and push the cup up the luff to get to both ends of this

What Cat said...
When you remove the luff support pin, the whole black drum should slide up the luff***, exposing the turnbuckle.

***or the luff should be able to slide further down into the drum, giving you more room at the top to then slide them both up the forestay together, whichever way you want to look at it.