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Be more specific please..

Catigale wrote:People are lulled into the security and safety of home wiring since there is no exposure to the elements, code enforcement, and no motion of the parts. It's real easy to make mistakes that will kill you or others with marine wiring.

My 3am post on anchor watch wasn't cogent?


My lost point was, we get familiar with electricity since it is all around us at home, and so we think it is safe. Wiring AC on boats is a whole new animal and one that you can reapply mess up.

Still Too Grey for me Cat.. Same can be said and is often said, ( by Insurance adjusters )about a lot of things DIY-ers do .
Auto.. HOME.. boats.. Its precisely why most quality communities require a city implemented home inspection BEFORE transfer of property....

Catigale wrote:My 3am post on anchor watch wasn't cogent?


My lost point was, we get familiar with electricity since it is all around us at home, and so we think it is safe. Wiring AC on boats is a whole new animal and one that you can reapply mess up.

The last home I bought had four inspectors look at it before mine, and we were the first to catch that the main box was grounded to plastic pipe.


My point is you can get away with a lot of stuff at home, without salt water, movement, etc, that you can't do with impunity on boats.

The big danger of AC power on a boat is that there is DC, also. Although the two can live side-by-side and independently just fine, inevitably we will mix them. How? Are you going to use a battery charger? How about an inverter? If so, you will have to have a common ground and if this is not done correctly...

Study, learn and do it right.

~Rich

All I did was take a 75' 30A extension cord with a generator adapter on one end, and 3 standard 3 prong home receptacles on the other.
I cut off the generator plug, bought a 3 prong marine size adapter and wired that up.
When on the slip with shore power, I just plug in the marine plug, and run the 75' cord into the cabin between the cabin door and the hatch. There is enough clearance there for the cord to fit off to the right side and close the hatch.
I then plug in my batt charger and anything else I need.

G

OK at home; totally unacceptable in a slip.

~Rich

Ok

How so Rich?

Are your DC and AC grounds properly connected?

Not to throw fuel on the fire, but read Jedi's response to a similar thread here....

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55 ... 361-2.html

Personally we don't ever get shore power to the boat, so my main concern is if we are running the Honda generator on the boat for AC and/or charging the batteries what is the best protection for us and those near us possibly in the water?

I'm going to have a GFI either at the generator of at the end of the cord to it where the ship's wiring begins. From what I know of them the GFI should trip if for any reason 110 was getting to the DC circuit or anyplace other than returning to the gen-set.

If I was coming from shore I would have a GFI at the shore power box in a waterproof box that we carried with us regardless of if the AC ground (not the neutral) was tied to the DC negative or not.

c ya,

Sum

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If you followed the instructions it is.. Beene replace your standard cord female with a weather proof /outside box and install a GFI receptacle..If you fellows look there is a wire coming off those built in chargers and its to be attached to the Negative side of the D/C system.. The solution isn't a secret . We're I thought , here to help one another...

Hamin' X wrote:Are your DC and AC grounds properly connected?

A little reminder for handy folks that work on their house electricity and think they can use same techniques on a boat: The ground (white at home) and neutral wires (usually bare) are bonded in the breaker box at home. NEVER do that in boats, especially if you then bond the AC ground to the DC ground. This is when polarity really matters in a boat. If you are using an extension cord--and you plug it into the generator or dock upside down--reverse polarity--now the neutral wire is HOT and you have a hot wire that could be bonded to boat railings or ladder or in the water and could kill swimmers. At least use a three prong extension cord with all prongs intact.

SILK

The adapter has a GFI circuit and is just the same as a permanent shore power without the hole. Catch the cords on sale.

MARINCO 30A PowerCord PLUS® Cord Sets (Model # 9386236)
+
MARINCO West Marine - Dockside 30A to 15A Adapter with Ground Fault Protection (Model # 10066835)

Jim

Divecoz wrote:If you followed the instructions it is.. Beene replace your standard cord female with a weather proof /outside box and install a GFI receptacle..If you fellows look there is a wire coming off those built in chargers and its to be attached to the Negative side of the D/C system.. The solution isn't a secret . We're I thought , here to help one another...

Hamin' X wrote:Are your DC and AC grounds properly connected?

I was referring to beene's post, above mine, Not Sums post, below mine. Yes, we are here to try and help one another not make tragic mistakes.

~Rich

What? Grnd is white? No..white is neutral Grn is grnd unless bare .. Trained and schooled Electricians will almost all us Primary colors as constant hot 2ndry colors are switch legs. a pair of any odd colors are travelers.. Res. Com Indust. Boats Cars Motorcycles and Airplanes etc can be very different and when mixing high and low voltage A/C toss in combined / Integrated D/C 12=24 volts and it can get crazy.. by and large we have very few of those issues Grnd the Bat charger to the 12V Neg and thats about it..GFI's fpr certain and an On Board 110/220 A/C panel with breakers that you manually trip often is a real nice touch..But again these little boats rarely have Electric Stoves and Oven and Microwaves etc etc . There in was the reason why I suggested for a cheap easy safe shore power .. 30 amp male twist lock ( marine grade cord) on the end use a all weather box with a GFI and a cover.. That will afford you basic Ground Fault Protection and however you will be relying on the Marina/house power, breaker for over current protecton.

nedmiller wrote:A little reminder for handy folks that work on their house electricity and think they can use same techniques on a boat: The ground (white at home) and neutral wires (usually bare) are bonded in the breaker box at home. NEVER do that in boats, especially if you then bond the AC ground to the DC ground. This is when polarity really matters in a boat. If you are using an extension cord--and you plug it into the generator or dock upside down--reverse polarity--now the neutral wire is HOT and you have a hot wire that could be bonded to boat railings or ladder or in the water and could kill swimmers. At least use a three prong extension cord with all prongs intact.

SILK