45-60 watt solar unit on my bimini

[Divecoz]

Vertical Turbines are the best and the least obtrusive / dangerous / noisy etc etc. They need the least amount of dedicated area.
IMHO and even Professional Opinion, be very careful buying stuff from Harbor Freight. In the end you get what you pay for or..... less.
For a tool you will seldom use ??? Even a generator you will seldom to never use? Maybe?? But a wind generator???????? Much of what they offer is Very.... Off Brand and even the few brand name items ...are most often very inferior/ low end bottom of the product line from that manufacturer.. JSYK...

[mastreb]

Deep cycle lead acid batteries are pretty good at taking a wide variety of charge voltages, but wind generators vary widely in what they deliver--far more so than solar chargers which just heat up once they've reached their design voltage rather than going much over.

Also, driving an alternator will also require a rectifier (essentially the entire charging circuit) from the car as well. But it's a pretty good way to go as all the electronics required to take a widely variable power load and convert it to a battery charge are already there. Look to a heavy duty truck alternator for the most amperage capacity.

Divecoz is right about vertical wind turbines being technically ideal. These are similar to the passive cooling turbines you see on the tops of buildings that draw out attic air. In addition to having fewer moving parts and no need to turn to face the wind, they also have a consistent weight load on their mount, can operate in a much wider wind dynamic, and birds can see them when they're operational.

The problem with all wind turbines on a sailboat is that they create drag when you're sailing (unless you take them down). They are designed to catch wind, and they do. The wattage you generate is energy extracted from your forward momentum, in essence. Same problem with a water turbine generator.

Solar doesn't have the drag issues at all.

I have no idea where you'd put a vertical turbine on a Mac though. Bow pulpit? Be clever if someone combined a traditional wind generator with rotavecta sensors so it could report wind speed and direction as well as generate power. All it would take to determine wind speed is a voltmeter circuit that was calibrated to convert voltage developed into wind speed.

[seahouse]

Hey Crikey!

If you do some research before you build a windmill you will find that, for a number of technical reasons ( startup torque, speed range, gearing, it's beyond the scope of this forum) an alternator from a vehicle is not at all suitable for use in a wind turbine.

There are a number of ways to deal with overspeed (furlers, brakes, shorting the leads, tilting masts, stall-type blade forms etc).

IIRC, there is an Australian appliance motor that is appropriate (Fischer-Paykel or something similar?) for such use, if you have relatives and/or visit there? I was about to embark on constructing my own land-based turbine but purchased an Air-X (Canadian Tire) a while ago. That same model has a "beefed" up marine version which is commonly used on sailboats.

Here's a link I think you'll like.

http://www.scoraigwind.com/

-Brian.

[Crikey]

Yo Brian! You are right on with the other aspects of complexity and I was just approaching this from the simplest (and cheapest) angle - which would be a car wreckers yard. There are quite a few sites with stator rewiring projects and regulator circuits, and I think the aussie system you mentioned already comes in this form. Most of the modern bladed boat systems I've seen in operation have these wicked scimitar type blades that would put a moulinex to shame, so maybe the best system to lean towards is this:

My problem is that I dream out loud too often - then I wake up!

Ross

[DaveB]

I haven't much thought into it since last time we talked about solar unit. I have found this unit will fit the Bimini at 15 lbs and not to big at 60 watts, add a controler and for around $200 isn't bad.
http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Panels-& ... _info.html

I plan on useing it for trips longer than 3 days as my twin house batteries keep the rifig. and other elect. needs going but at the end of 3 days batteries are down to 12.2 volts.
The flexable panels are just to large and expensive for same size watts as rigid ones.
If I run outboard going someplace for a couple of hrs that helps but at 10 amps max it would take a whole day just to bring them up.
I still am looking into outboard replacement for a Suzuki or Yamaha 90 hp that has chargeing at max. 27 amps at low rpms.
Sitting at anchor or at beach the refig. can run off solar alone during the day when it's hot and runs more often.
I trailer sail and it's the mounting bracket and quick release I am looking into.
Dave

45-60 watt solar unit on my bimini This was said by DaveB and I hope he'll chime in here on a new topic thread...
Yes yes yes we've talked numerous times about adding solar electric cells on this board, but as this industry is changing by the minute... I am of hopes to come across some better answers than we had last year..
This one is Still too costly for this year but some good reading and interesting site links in the comments....
http://www.neoseeker.com/news/7497-new- ... -at-night/

[Divecoz]

DaveB I think we are on the same wave length on this one.. Have you any reservations with the solid platform collector? Is there an issue wit the aluminum frame work.. My brothers keeps hounding me on salt salt salt ..maybe even coat the frame with some sort of liquid plastic of some sort..
If I can save money here.... I feel I can spend more money over there.. if you get my drift..
I would like
1. solar .. solid platform is MUCH cheaper than flexible..
2. Built in A/C .... may have to bite the bullet on this one .. dang it you really need it to be water cool .. No DIY project here..
3. Built in fridge....I have thought about disassembling my dorm size fridge and seeing if I can build something to fit, out of the parts from that.. Issue is its only 110V. hum If I fail I am only out $60 and I used it for 5 years
4. Auto pilot
If a solid panel collector would work / last .. That could save me enough to buy the fridge..if 60 watts would do it and in Florida I think it would, that "could" eliminate lugging a gen-set..I dont like the gen set I have .. its really too noisy.. I wouldn't appreciate it if someone else started it up so I'm going to 86 it..
I am in no hurry and I do feel I need to limit the amount of money I am accruing in this boat..

[Crikey]

OK, I'll muddy the waters here a little bit!

Before this topic began its growth I had had a fantasy about getting two rectangular solar panels, wrapping them in an aerodybamically curved plexiglass envelope and deploying them vertically aft on linked hinges, when under power. Read - Airboat rudders:

Dumb huh? I think they would have to be connected to the steering in reverse so that when turning to the left, they would have to be deflected to starboard to counter the roll of the boat going into the turn.
When stopped, or sailing they's be swung out sideways to a horizontal position for power generation.

OK - I'll stop now!
Ross

[Divecoz]

Cricket: The Power Generation Loss would be horrendous, maybe 50% Or MORE
I also am trying to keep my boat from looking like some I see here, that appear to be a conglomeration of Dear Old DAD's Garage Experiments

[mastreb]

Built in A/C .... may have to bite the bullet on this one .. dang it you really need it to be water cool .. No DIY project here..

Why not? Disassemble a stock window hanger A/C, replace the plumbing between the compressor and the condenser (hot-side radiator) and between the condenser and the expansion valve with long rubber hoses, toss the condenser fan, add a BUNCH of zinc to act as an anode, and hang the condenser off the transom. Throw away the frame and mount the compressor, expansion valve, and evaporator in the cabin with a small fan behind it. Re-fill with coolant and viola, water cooled A/C.

Matt

[Crikey]

Divecoz, Not much need to generate while under power, and would be out the rest of the time and look 'normal'. Fairly goofy looking - yes - somewhat similar to the rudders when they're up. You could paint sharks teeth on them.....

Chirp!

[Divecoz]

Hahahahahahah sounds easy enough doesnt it..

Why not? Disassemble a stock window hanger A/C, replace the plumbing between the compressor and the condenser (hot-side radiator) and between the condenser and the expansion valve with long rubber hoses, toss the condenser fan, add a BUNCH of zinc to act as an anode, and hang the condenser off the transom. Throw away the frame and mount the compressor, expansion valve, and evaporator in the cabin with a small fan behind it. Re-fill with coolant and viola, water cooled A/C.

Matt

[DaveB]

I have thought about installing aluminum like dingy bracket on the stern and put on top a 120 watt solar panel and also use it for a dingy but the motor sticking out and the rudders up would make the brackets to far aft.
I could just build the bracket with width just for the solar panel and it would be perminate. I also like the Idea of the 120 watt so I never have to ck battery voltage and future elect. demands.
I also considered solar panels on Port and Starboard with a hinges. The unit would be up Sailing and down when anchored.
I have seen a few larger Sailboats with this arangement but they have more than 500 watts in 4-6 panels.
I still like the bimini with removable solar panel as it is low cost, but the fixed dingy is a self contained unit and you need to do nothing except cover it on a trailer for longer solar panel life.
Anidized Aluminum is the best choice over Stainless Steel for weight and costs and I never had a problem with salt water corrosion. Just rince off with fresh water.
I still have the Solar Panel project on the back burner and want to make sure the design and function work well, as I hate building something and after it's done ,I say I should have done this!
There are many options includeing a larger engine for more amps, a 4-D Battery, or 3- 30 searies deep cycle or 4 golf batteries, even another group house battery will give me 1-1/2 days more. That would be 4-1/2 days without recharge.

When you add another 100 lbs of batteries, that still is less than 130lb more 90 hp outboard and a whole lot less money.
I am running WM 24 AGM batteries on a pool shark at the water park I work at. Use to be group 27 wet cell deep cycle and they are much more effeciant and lasts much longer with no maintanace but costs.
I have built a wind generator back in 1983 in St. Thomas and in the Trade wind works best but not in the States except Parts of California or any are that consistantly gets at least 10 knots or higher winds. For get water generators as they clog up easy.
It's a lot of planning and for the Mac.X or M a lot more do to outboard overhang and rudders.
Dave

DaveB I think we are on the same wave length on this one.. Have you any reservations with the solid platform collector? Is there an issue wit the aluminum frame work.. My brothers keeps hounding me on salt salt salt ..maybe even coat the frame with some sort of liquid plastic of some sort..
If I can save money here.... I feel I can spend more money over there.. if you get my drift..
I would like
1. solar .. solid platform is MUCH cheaper than flexible..
2. Built in A/C .... may have to bite the bullet on this one .. dang it you really need it to be water cool .. No DIY project here..
3. Built in fridge....I have thought about disassembling my dorm size fridge and seeing if I can build something to fit, out of the parts from that.. Issue is its only 110V. hum If I fail I am only out $60 and I used it for 5 years
4. Auto pilot
If a solid panel collector would work / last .. That could save me enough to buy the fridge..if 60 watts would do it and in Florida I think it would, that "could" eliminate lugging a gen-set..I dont like the gen set I have .. its really too noisy.. I wouldn't appreciate it if someone else started it up so I'm going to 86 it..
I am in no hurry and I do feel I need to limit the amount of money I am accruing in this boat..

[bartmac]

We've installed a curved SS frame over the back of the cockpit,hard to descibe..... raked back mounted on the cockpit combing.Mounted to the curved top are 6 x 20 watt panels.Also we've fitted a flexible 60 watt panel to the top of the sliding hatch....so 180 watts in total.....hopefully at 4.5-5hours average........800-900 watts....enough to run our fridge....4.5 amps x 24hrs x 12V.....duty cycle?????? 50% NOT SURE will depend on load and ambient temp....always have the motor 12-15 amps/hr

[Divecoz]

$$$$ ??? Pictures ?? Does this overwhelm the rest of the boat? Is it out of proportion?

We've installed a curved SS frame over the back of the cockpit,hard to describe..... raked back mounted on the cockpit combing.Mounted to the curved top are 6 x 20 watt panels.Also we've fitted a flexible 60 watt panel to the top of the sliding hatch....so 180 watts in total.....hopefully at 4.5-5hours average........800-900 watts....enough to run our fridge....4.5 amps x 24hrs x 12V.....duty cycle?????? 50% NOT SURE will depend on load and ambient temp....always have the motor 12-15 amps/hr

[Divecoz]

I have looked at the Bow Rails ( on the ) for awhile, as a place to mount two hinged panels that "might ' not be offensive to the looks and character of the boat???
This area "might" allow the mounting of 2 panels 20" x 48". These "could" either be lifted up.... like a birds wing (?) or lowered down to catch the suns rays? Either way / position would allow for a relatively flat horizontal declination to the sun..