Yikes!! I need help - gallons of fuel in the bilge.

[Trouts Dream]

Have you tried showering with it...

Sometimes gas smells sometimes come back on a hot day. I wonder about some type of absorbant deoderizer might be handy to do the research on now...just in case

[seahouse]

Glad to hear it worked out with no boom boom!

For deodorizing a confined space the following product has a high proportion of chemistry and physics, and a lower proportion of hope and hype , it won't work overnight but it does work. It actually absorbs the odour-causing molecules instead of maksing them, and thus needs re-activating every now and again. But it lasts forever.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page ... 0727,10175

You might find a similar product in the US.

Or, more economically, you can use Fuller's earth (=kitty litter) leave it in the bilge as long as you will, and vacuum it up (if the smell is only residual and it's dry). Don't inhale the dust.

And/or finish off with baking soda, leave it on, and vacuum it up. This also might help with your upholstery, some is marketed for carpets and has a scent. Use a vacuum with a long hose or go to a Delta Sonic. If you miss any, don't worry, it'll blend in with all the fibreglass dust!

[Divecoz]

YES!! On All Counts.. $$$$$ and..... Barney Fife ( some times) makes a mountain out of a mole hill for INDIVIUALS.. You need to capture this as well or your just moving the problem ( BOOM!) to another site.. IMHO its time to really LOOK.. at everything on your boat done by the DPO as well. BTW cheap shampoo is an excellent degreaser and gas is petroleum

I agree that the best course of action would likely be to call the fire department...BUT...before you do, ask them if they charge for the service...I know most people will tell you "no way", but if you call the EMT down here and they come to your house, that's $100. If they take you to the hospital, it's $600...period. They MAY charge for this type of non-standard or "special" service for a condition you created...just worth asking first.

And you don't want to just wait and let it evaporate on its own - it will leave a nasty varnishy yucky stain and smell...and it can't be good for your fiberglass hull either.

[vizwhiz]

BTW cheap shampoo is an excellent degreaser and gas is petroleum

This is true, but it makes MOUNTAINS of suds...

Can do the same with a laundry detergent because they are formulated to NOT make suds...and because they have enzymes that actually help eat the grease, so making a mixture, spreading it on and letting it soak might actually help more long-term too.

[Russ]

BTW cheap shampoo is an excellent degreaser and gas is petroleum

This is true, but it makes MOUNTAINS of suds...

Can do the same with a laundry detergent because they are formulated to NOT make suds...and because they have enzymes that actually help eat the grease, so making a mixture, spreading it on and letting it soak might actually help more long-term too.

But shampoo makes your bilge so shiny and silky.

Yea, laundry detergent is a good idea.

[kmclemore]

Trisodiumphospate ("TSP") also works well... and does not foam. Available at any paint store.

[goinfiishin]

Well, I just thought I'd add some updates so that if anyone follows this post they might have the benefit of my experience with a fuel flooded bilge.

So far, the best thing I've done is drain the bilge, wash it out, leave the hatch and companionway open for a week and go back for inspection. When I got there I found that the bilge pump was melted on the bottom and had blown the fuse because the impeller was trapped. The float switch that controlls the bilge pump was warped and even though it would conduct a curent when in position, it would not move up and down reliable so I have to scrap that as well. The third thing that I found is the water bladder storage tank I had in the bildge area was contaminated and had to be removed. I will eventually replace that as time goes on but it costs about $130.00, so I'm just going to seal the line off and use the forwardword tank for water storage for now. So let's see $100 for a bilge pump, $35 for a switch, bladder $130, plus misc., I'm into it about $300.00 and counting. While I was there I removed the engine well drain lines. I also replaced the inferior fuel line, that initially caused the problem in the first place, with good quality fuel line that should last a long while. So now I'm hunting for a replacement for the engine well drain hose. If any one has any suggestions - I would greatly appreciate it.
I'm going out again today to take measurements so that I can order the parts.
Well anyway, that's about it for now. If anyone has any input, I'd sure appreaciate it.

Thank you!

[Russ]

Yea, people forget strong gasoline is. It can melt all kinds of stuff. As for your drain hose. I thank you for this post as it really makes me thing that that hose needs to be fuel line rated. If a gas leakage such as yours, it will melt right through a cheap plastic hose.

[John McDonough]

lAST WEEKEND a 32 foot cabin cruiser exploded at the Gas docks at thte Erie Yahct club in ERie Pennsylvvaniia 25 year old woman killed, witnessess said it looked like bomb exploded.

, scrub with heavy duy bilge lcleaner and rinse a few times

Good LUck.. be safe

[seahouse]

Condolences to the families. I can't help but wonder how the statistical rarity of this or any other such tragic occurrence can be of significance to anyone.

[Ixneigh]

Soooooo. Ive been following this with interest. For owners who have the model, Has anyone ever plugged the engine well drain and made a scupper right through the transom? Ive got dogs so the doghair washes out the cockpit and ends up in the well, as does every other bit of cr@p that is on the cockpit floor. It easily clogs the small drain. A one inch in diameter hole right out the back would not clog as easily and would allow fuel spills to go away quickly.
Alternately, making some sort of inch high dam around the edge of the well would channel the water to the egdes and out overboard. This last is what I myself will soon do. Very surprised something like that is not Factory.

Ixneigh

On my old 22.2 i did the hole thruogh the transom bit because the outboard well collected water. Sealed the cut edges well with epoxy. Never had a problem after that.

[Catigale]

Unaudited web sources say about 3000 boat/fuel explosions per year in the US.

[seahouse]

Hey Ix!
As I can recall, every outboard boat I've owned has had the scupper arrangement as you describe. In older boats it can be a source of leakage that allows water to penetrate between the built-up layers in the transom, even if a ferrule or tube is inserted. Seen that - in an area where, more than anywhere else, structural integrity is paramount. I'm thinking it might also interfere with some motor or power tilt mounting plates.

But as a retro fit as you mention - that's a great solution to the problem, especially if you can get the hole to end at the lowest point at the back of the well, and 'glass it in. And with a big honkin' 1" hole- no clogging- I like it!

On a Mac, the transom hole is already there for the sink(?) drain anyway, so it is less work (read "cheaper") to manufacture the arrangement as it is- a simple extra hole and barb through a single layer of GRP, and link up to the existing tube with a "T". Having a ribbed hose doesn't help in the clog department, though.
- B.