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Don't need one with a tandem Axel independent suspension over normal or semi uneven road. (Asphalt or Cement roads)
4 inch pot hole at 60 mph no problem.
Dave

Gater Dunn wrote:Anyone know the length of tie down needed over the back of to keep it on the trailer
also whats a good load rating

For the small price of a couple of 3 inch straps, why take a chance? Just because you have been doing it this way for ten to fifteen years does not mean that the boat will not leave the trailer tomorrow when you are forced to make a panic stop, or you take a tight cloverleaf turn 5mph faster than you have always done in the past. In my opinion, relying on gravity to keep things together is just plain foolish.

Bransher said:

For the small price of a couple of 3 inch straps, why take a chance? Just because you have been doing it this way for ten to fifteen years does not mean that the boat will not leave the trailer tomorrow when you are forced to make a panic stop, or you take a tight cloverleaf turn 5mph faster than you have always done in the past. In my opinion, relying on gravity to keep things together is just plain foolish.

I could not agree with you more I'm reading posts explaining the reasoning of doing nothing, and I am amazed. I have been using a rachet strap (winched tight) for five years. Since Kevin (not that he is infallible ) pointed out the error of my ways. In this case, I would rather error towards excess, than saying oops. It's just not worth it.

The difference between a smart man and a wise man is that a smart man knows how to get out of situations which a wise man would not have gotten into in the first place.

Ray

Hamin' X wrote:Gravity takes care of most of the load. You are really just securing the trailer to the boat (600-700 Lbs). If you are intending to place the entire load of the boat on the tie-down strap, I would suggest that you have greater problems than the boat just shifting: The wheels might not be on the ground.

~Rich

Please note that I said that gravity does most of the work. My comment was meant to show that a strap rated at 3000-4000 lbs is not needed and that before you exceed the working load of a much lighter strap, your boat is likely to be upside-down, rendering the rating of the strap moot. I do use a strap on my boat, just not a behemoth one.

~Rich

Rich, I have used stearn straps on previous boats and the straps wore groove lines in the toe rail and hull in trips less than 400 miles on single axel Potter 19 and Compac.19 ,maybe to tight?. My Mac.X doesn't require them unless I hit a Tornado or a sink hole.( I will use one aft on a long trip but just finger tight)
Probably in the single axel you need them.
Dave

Hamin' X wrote:

Hamin' X wrote:Gravity takes care of most of the load. You are really just securing the trailer to the boat (600-700 Lbs). If you are intending to place the entire load of the boat on the tie-down strap, I would suggest that you have greater problems than the boat just shifting: The wheels might not be on the ground.

~Rich

Please note that I said that gravity does most of the work. My comment was meant to show that a strap rated at 3000-4000 lbs is not needed and that before you exceed the working load of a much lighter strap, your boat is likely to be upside-down, rendering the rating of the strap moot. I do use a strap on my boat, just not a behemoth one.

~Rich

Bransher wrote :

In my opinion, relying on gravity to keep things together is just plain foolish.

Right on, well said Bransher (and others). And fact = your opinion.

An issue like this always seems to be taken lightly as a joke until someone innocent gets killed. And in spite of there being a photo "visual aid" like we have here, that underscores the value of securing the load, whatever it might be.

Negligence is bad enough, but there is NO excuse, in my humble opinion, for WILLFULL negligence.

- B.

ps. A local, innocent teen is dead (from a head-on) because of two jacka$$'s improperly trailering a load.

DaveB wrote:Don't need one with a tandem Axel independent suspension over normal or semi uneven road. (Asphalt or Cement roads)
4 inch pot hole at 60 mph no problem.
Dave

Gater Dunn wrote:Anyone know the length of tie down needed over the back of to keep it on the trailer
also whats a good load rating

Dah !!!!!!!!!!

1,2,3,4 axle trl what ever "The Law Requires That Your Load is Secured Period " an unsecure load charge will cancel your insurance making you Totally Libel $$$$$$$$$$$$, in an accident the fines could end up being more than your boats worth !! . In an accident involving a death !! your looking @ "JAIL TIME" for shear neglect !!!

If your boat & trl are not independently insured for towing & your boat comes off your trl for what ever reason whether its your fault or not its not insured !!, if your boat & trl should for what ever reason sepperate from your Tow Vehical their not insured !!
This is a "Very Serious Issue" Not to be neglected it could cost you & your family everthing you own !! & more ?????
J

Found old post about strapping Mac to trailer, it is a prudent thing and not real exspensive $$$ to give you a little peace of mind. No strap will keep the boat and trailer together in an accident (IMO) but it does provide some protection from a lawsuit. ["SkiDeep2001"]From a post last year -

SkiDeep2001 wrote:

I have to mention a topic that has been extensively discussed, STRAPPING THE BOAT TO THE TRAILER The most powerful of tow beast available will be of little value as the Mac leaves its trailer during a change in towing direction

I now return you to the previous discussion

Ray

Good advice Ray. That strap is rated 3500 Lbs and was $20 bucks at Harbor Freight when I bought mine a few weeks ago. I looked in the mirror 40 years ago on Canadian highway 97 out of 100 Mile House at 60 or 70 MPH and saw the boat (16' Glaspar) floating above the trailer when I forgot to attach tie-down straps, and that was with a 90 HP MERC (Kiekhaefer) and small kicker motor with lots of gear/fuel in boat. Don't want to see that again. Strap your boat with a strap around boat and trailer at forward section of cockpit. If you want to tear out cleats and stanchions you can tie down with that as your attach point. (I wouldn't though) Rob

Highlander wrote:In an accident involving a death !! your looking @ "JAIL TIME" for shear neglect !!!

Nice rhyme Highlander and you make a great point. Just because someone can get away with not strapping down the boat to the trailer does not make it safe or, in some cases, legal. I guess it is like driving 63 in a 55. You might get away with it 99 percent of the time, but it is that 1% that will kill you (or someone else).

Chris

My Bayliner had tiedown hooks in its stern and short straps to hook to the trailer. When I bought the boat , I had to insist on the straps , as the Dealer said they were not needed .

I tend to believe the stern docklines might do a better job than a strap . The docklines properly tight , would prevent the boat from sliding forward , where a strap might let it slide .
A good dockline will hold a great deal of weight .

Fear mongering is effective, never the less one should do as he wishes if he understands the dynamics of what he does. I do not use straps as I believe that the straps will put extreme stress on my stock non aluminum trailer and create trailer or tire failure. My trailer is attached to the trailer with the winch hook line and a redundant line which is also attached to the boat. But then I would never use my trailer if it did not have heavy duty cargo tires, bearing buddies and brakes..but then that's just my understanding of the dynamics involved.

Q1

When I picked up my '96 the P.O. had been using a pair or "motorcycle ties", the kind that work like a cam cleat, one on each side, from the trailer to the "stanchions" at the front of the cockpit. I drove it home (200 miles) like that, but I didn't like the idea of putting all that stress on the "stanchions", even tho those are bolted to the boat in several places and look fairly sturdy.

I got one of the big straps, as shown earlier, and tried it, but the ratchet mechanism would rub on the hull. Right now I'm using a pair of 1" ratchet straps that go from one side of the trailer to the other, over the boat, at the front of the cockpit.

It was a lot easier to get in and out of the boat with it rigged as the P.O. had done it. The strap now crossing over the cockpit is a nuisance and I always take it off when the boat is home.

Bertrand said
never the less one should do as he wishes if he understands the dynamics of what he does. I do not use straps as I believe that the straps will put extreme stress on my stock non aluminum trailer and create trailer or tire failure.

Your trl suspension is totaly independant of your trl frame the suspenion & axle move up & down , the boat & trl frame just sit their . The only way for you to do that is if your silly enough to try & attach strap the axle instead of the frame of coarse you French Guy's are crazy enough to try anything

Bretrand said
My trailer ^"Boat"is attached to the trailer with the winch hook line and a redundant line which is also attached to the boat.

right now that winch post is all that is keeping your boat on the trl, its real purpose is to stop the boat in its proper loading possition & for winching the boat on the trl when necc .

But then I would never use my trailer if it did not have heavy duty cargo tires, bearing buddies and brakes..but then that's just my understanding of the dynamics involved.

None of these are going to do you any good if you should get into a emergency possition where you either end up in a jack-knife possition which you'd be toast as you do not have indenpdant trl brk's to pull you out of it & most likely would not have the room to accelerate out of it or try to steer out of it either !!! or a servere swerve these will throw your boat off the trl

Bertrand said
Fear mongering is effective, never the less one should do as he wishes if he understands the dynamics of what he does
serperating

You'll know what Fear is when that Boat comes a Mongering Over the top of your car !! & realizes he does not understand the dynamics of the Forces behind you !! "Gez that does have a nice ring to it ! "
J

what the heck are these heavy duty cargo tyres. I s that just french for trailer tyres. i use goodyear marathon radials 225 x 15 D range for about 2550 lbs per tyre times four is 10,000 lbs, which is a good saftey margin, but if theres something better i'm always open to new ideas. would you please post the name of the manufacurer, model name and side wall info, i'd like to see if you have some secret tyre or if its just a french trailer tyre. thanks.

I use a tie-down so that if anything unfortunate happens the insurance company can't use that point to cancel any payout, I'm sure there is fine print for the policy stored in basement labeled "quaratined" with the door bricked over, guarded by a Cerberus somewhere in this or another Galaxy.

Glenn