Ballast vent 26 X Forward vs. rear

[kmclemore]

have to look it up, i'll be back.

It is on plates affixed to the starboard transom and on the aft of the galley.

[capncarp]

Mine is fwd. I have a 99. I bought it in April of 99. This allows the ballast to fully fill. This is why they changed it. The aft valve doesn't allow filling fully. Also the ladder makes for much easier and safer entry.
capncarp,
99

[Gater Dunn]

So it looks to me that 1999 is the first year of the 26x with the vent forward
thanks all who responded

[SkiDeep2001]

Actually, mine is a 98 and my vent is forward also, There is a small air hole on bottom of step but the plug is just aft of V berth. So if Kevins' is an August manufacture date MACX2018A898, mine must be Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec date. I will check my #'s to see what month it was manufactured. Not sure when they switched to new model year. Rob

[Catigale]

Roger is ISO 2001, so that means the model year starts in JWHFLK*


just when he feels like it or runs out of the old parts

[eddy]

Well i found mine i have a 98 X with the vent under the Vberth, and the serial ends with 324F898.

[Newell]

It is interesting how many factory mods were made to the ballast system on the X. I have a 96 and added some of the later mods. Blocked off and covered the center fill and vent. Installed the larger aft fill valve. Permently vented the forward part of the tank into the anchor locker drain. Never need to check vent for fill, opening and closeing the rear valve is the only thing to remember and sometimes I forget it.

Newell
Fast Sunday 96X, Windancer 89D

[ALX357]

Second that passive ballast vent. Best mod I have done on the boat, gives the most effective result on ballast management. Never needs any attention, but just in case I plan on laying on its side for extended time, I installed a heavy-duty ball valve in the ballast vent hose, just over the tank. I just drilled a second identical-sized hole next to the original vent hole, inside the cup/dam, and made sure the regular plug would fit it as well, then plumbed the fitting and hose there, so I can still do a ballast tank visual inspection or check by removing the stock plug and using a flashlight and or mirror to look around in there, without disturbing the vent hose arrangement.

[Don T]

Hello,
For that leaking center fill valve:
Next time your boat is on the trailer look at how the valve closes underneath. The stainless plate and rubber seal should contact the hull squarely. The rod and plate are welded perpendicular but the rod hole in the top of the ballast tank may not be directly above the valve hole causing the seal to be tight on one edge but loose on another. I had to put a slight bend in the rod down at the plate to align them for a proper seal. Now I don't have to tighten the valve as much to get a good seal and it has not leaked since (mod done 14 years ago).