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I think I answered a similar question a while back...but no matter...It is a problem being so close. My solution was to raise the hound on the mast while leaving the side shrouds where they were. I made up my own hound and it has held nicely. This of course has raised the furler drum, allowing the fitting below of both a hifield lever and ANOTHER TURNBUCKLE. There is a turnbuckle inside the furler drum.What you must be careful of, [ says me after having probs THEN reading the manual] is...once you have adjusted the lower turnbuckle, YOU MUST LOCK IT IN PLACE SO THAT IT DOES NOT IN ANY WAY TRY TO TURN...because if it does, the torque will undo the reverse thread even if it has a very tight locking nut...and you could lose the whole forestay. I put a bar through the hole in the adjuster...the central bit...and secured it to the pulpit rail...
I even though of doing away with the turnbuckle and using just one large hifield lever, but it would have to be the exact length between the bow plate and the bottom of the furler drum...OR use the adjusters as supplied by Roger on the shrouds...You then have the advantage of adjustment but with no prospect of turning or rotating.

I will post closeup photos when I next get to the in a couple of days...We are heading into winter and good days will be few and far apart.

puggsy 06

Puggsy

Sounds like a good solution, but need photos and dimensions.

Dirk

Puggsy
You said

I will post closeup photos when I next get to the in a couple of days...We are heading into winter and good days will be few and far apart.

Hey thats the best time to use the boat only not in the lower half of the island

It would be trickier to do on an M with the crosswise tang, but this works great on my X. The mod is on the Winderra website. It's easy to get the first pin in when the lever is in the up position. Then just push with your foot and put in the second one and you are set to go. I use two of the BWY large end clevis pins and a large ring ding.

http://www3.telus.net/harbro/exterior.html

Crikey Duane you got me excited then with that adjuster, then went out and had a look at the and it's definitely not so easy but will file it away for when I get some time to mount a pivot on one of the bow roller bolts.
Then will wait till I get keen enough to pull all that flotation material out to put it under the bolt head.

Duanne
That front lever for pinning the forestay was one of the first rigging mods I did before I even wet the boat. Works great. I have done many of your mods, including the 3 boys.
Thanks for all your mods.

Boblee,

I had a similar idea of using the bow roller bolts somehow, but will need to have a look at the boat how to do it. This appears to be an ideal solution for proper tensioning.
Thanks Duanne.

Had another look and reckon I can make a lengthwise bracket to attach to the existing one and mount a pivot point back on the new bow roller.
Not so much interested for tensioning the forestay as for an easy attachment method when going under bridges as there's always a worry of dropping the pin, ring, my glasses or me into the drink.
It would help with a little bit of mast rake though for different conditions.

It has been said many times as a suggestion and one that works for me....Just put your shoulder into the mast and tie-off the jib halyard extended over and under the bolt on the top of the pulpit. Easy every time... (see past threads for discussion and drawings, I think..)

Do you guys keep the backstay connected while trying to connect the forestay/furler to the bow?
Shouldn't disconnecting it help?
However, I just got one of those vice-grip plate adjusters from KH, so I yet have to test this theory.