MacGregorSailors.com

People are reporting 0.1 to 0.75 kt gain by raising the motors in the chosen examples in the post above...I wonder what an experimental variance of that size would mean to someone with some statistical training?

The variance is just the the sum of the squares of all the samples minus the average, so you need the samples, not just the range. Usually standard deviation is used which is the square root of the variance.

I'm tempted to order the BWY linkage. I will first replace my hitch pin setup with wing nuts on the bolt that was reinstalled by the dealer and time my connect/reconnect. If I can keep it under 15 seconds, I may keep the setup, otherwise I'm ordering BWY's. Just don't know if I want to hassle with the installation if the gains are minimal. The one nice thing with the BWY system is that it seems that it would eliminate the problem of limiited steering range to port while powering with a disconnected engine due to the steering bar running up against the fixed steering linkage. With their single steering arm, it appears there is no such limitation.

BTW... This has been a great discussion other than the fact that some of you are making it personal. Gentlemen, this is supposed to be friendly not confrontational. Differences of opionion are normal and can be postitive. No need to make it a conflict. Just my 5 cents worth.

I basically use the motor lock down that came with the boat except I had to move the stud. While I was at it I added an external aluminum plate for reinforcment of the stud. It takes me about 30 seconds as long as I don't drop the wing nut! I was surprised that the original stud position wasn't even close to working. Maybe it's motor dependent. I picked the new stud position so the motor was straight when locked down. After that I noticed that the motor may not be aligned with the rudders when it's not locked down. If I fix that problem I'll probably have to move the stud again. Doh!

I can hear Al sighing in his grave now...

0.5 knots increase for 3% wetted area change???? Oy Vey...cant these goyim even pretend to do math??

Catigale
Albert read your post and said you would understand this:

BB,

I think you have the right idea moving the stud. I use the stock linkage and when I put the engine over the stud, the steering bar runs into the linkage, not allowing the rudders to turn to port (if enigne is down, trying to power slowly while stering with rudders.) I tinkered around with this today, using a shorter bolt on the steering bar, and then took it out altogether, seeing that the steering bar still hit the linkage without any bolts. I give. I'm ordering the BWY linkage.

ROTFL They Theirs!!!



Catigale

Thanks Catagail!

The one thing about BWY system is the new post or quick connect installs
in the same hole as the old post. You just have to enlarge it a little. Saves from drilling another hole back there.

It is a little pricey but what the hey, It took me and Rick to do his about twenty min., thats with me having to go back to my boat a couple times for more tools. Also a bit hung over at the time. I recomend it because its solid and really can be done in seconds. If your not sure about the fit and your out my way we can try mine on yours like we did on ricks, thats how we knew it would fit a yamaha before he bought.

The look alone is better then the stock flat stock that came with the M.

Thanks Aya.

Does the end connected to the engine simply bolt to the loop in the center, designed for whatever steering system one uses for that OB? My Etec has this steel loop to which the existing linkage is bolted. I assume most outboards do. Thanks again.

Yes the end piece does bolt to one of the holes on the engine. In a power boat set up there is a steering tube that holds the steering cable on that part of the engine. we dont have one so our engine is connected direct.
Ill measure my center hole to the post on the boat and let you know if yours will work.I just left the boat about an hour ago so ill do this next week for you.

in the kit you get from BWY there is a new steering pole with a quick connect welded to the top and a quick connect pin for the engine, and a quick connect box looking thing that goes where your transom post is now.
As well as the stainless rod with the disconnect female fittings on each end. That rod is ajustable but not much. Youre suposed to send them back your linkage for a 50 dollar credit but I never did.

Aya,

It would be helpful to know the distance from the center hole on your engine to the opening for the steering bar from each full maximum turn of the engine, port & starboard. Also the height from the top of the transom deck to the engine hole. That should give me a clear indication as to whether it would fit on my Etec. I called BWY, but they couldn't tell me if it would fit or not. I'm also wondering why they have a connect/disconnect on each end of the rod. I would think that you only need to disconnect and reconnect at one end from the steering arm to the transom stud and vise versa. The part by the engine should be permanently connected, unless I don't fully understand the system. Can you tilt your engine up & down when it's disconnected? Can you tilt all the way down prior to reconnecting? I can't see the release mechanism from the picture. I'm wondering if there's some sort of a pin, ring, switch etc, or do you just lift the thing off the male connector. That would seem too accident prone, so I would imagine there is some sort of release mechanism to engage. Thanks a million for all your help. Happy Sailing!

Ok Ill copy and get all the data for you Sat. But you really only need to know the distance from the motor hole to the stud already on your transom, with the rudders straight and the engine straight the height is not a problem because of the way the system is set up (rotateing balls)

The quick connect female ends of the tie rod goes on the engine and the stud, yes two. three ball studs one on the steering pipe

The motor will tilt connected or disconnected with out binding.

the reason to put a disconnect female end on the motor side is so it will
rotate on the ball......

Think of your trailer hitch ball and thats what the male studs look like on the motor and the new steering pipe you will get from BWY. So Im guessing that the reason for a female end on the new tie rod is so it will rotate as you tilt your motor.

Yes you tilt the motor all the way down, or just level before you reconnect the motor to the steering.

No pins but the female ends on the tie rods have a spring loaded slide that locks it in place.


when you have the rudders set straight ahead then you put your motor straight and the tie rod should reach from the motor to either the stud on the back of the boat or the steering pipe.

http://www.bwyachts.com/web%20catalog%2 ... eering.htm

Cool. I'll measure mine from dead center of the engine connector hole to the stud. Makes sense. If it is right in that position, the rest should work. Thanks again Aya/Mike.

This past summer my brother and were fishing with downriggers on Huron while sailing. The lake was way too rough for trolling conventionaly so de deployed about 25% genoa. the sail provided stability from the rocking swells but gave us too much speed for fishing by about 1.5kn.
I put the outboard in gear and the ensuing drag slowed us aprox 1.5kn

In neutural I have detected no significant reduction..It may be there but I am not about to start messing around with steering linkaged for the insignificant gains


I think I'm with chip on this one.