Tacking in high winds

[BOAT]

And push the jib cars as far forward as they will go in those conditions - all sheets look a bit too tight to me - loosen up a bit. Also, your topping lift is too tight and looks like it might be obstructing the boom from settling in fully, un-leash the topping lift while under sail if it's not very very loose.

I remember one guy could not figure out why his boat did not point before a round up and after watching him beat into the wind I noticed the harder he pulled on the main-sheet his sail did not flatten out yet the further back his mast was bending - he was pulling the top of the mast over with the topping lift as he hauled in the main-sheet - it was very frustrating for him.

[Neo]

What's that bullseye fairlead for, if not for the furler?

Yes it was fitted (by the dealer) for the furler line. But I wanted to try going round the front pulpit and it worked really well so I'm a happy with using that.

And push the jib cars as far forward

You might remember me saying that the sailmaker instructed me to use the Genoa cars at the Helm (for some reason!). The sheets don't work in the Genoa cars and the jib is currently fouling on the pulpit and safety wires. So my compromise was to use the back end of the Jib rails. .. Am I wrong?
I will watch that Top lift, thanks .... but it is slack in the photo.

[kadet]

jib is also fouling on the pulpit and safety wires

As in catching and tearing Then sail tape up the sharp bits as on certain points of sail your jib correctly trimmed will always rest on the pulpit with the low mounting of the roller furler.

I have raised my new furler and had a new jib cut and it still rests on the pulpit but not as bad

[Neo]

As in catching and tearing

No as in resting on the bar and wires, occasionally going halfway over the wire and sitting (snagging) there. It's effecting the sail shape at the foot a bit but I don't know how important that is?

I have raised my new furler and had a new jib cut

Yep I fully appreciate why you did that now

[kadet]

I don't know how important that is?

Most boats will have the headsail rest on the pulpit at some points of sail as long as it is not chafing or catching not that important.

My :macm:s old Genoa use to be a deck sweeper which is why when I had the opportunity during the upgrade of the furler I changed it

[Neo]

Thanks Kadet, That's interesting. With my old Genoa the Clew was very high up (I used to stand on the pulpit to attach the sheets ) and the foot didn't touch the pulpit or wires at all.

I might try covering the wires with hard plastic tubes, to prevent snagging on the crimps and help the foot roll back off.

[BOAT]

What's that bullseye fairlead for, if not for the furler?

Yes it was fitted (by the dealer) for the furler line. But I wanted to try going round the front pulpit and it worked really well so I'm a happy with using that.

And push the jib cars as far forward

You might remember me saying that the sailmaker instructed me to use the Genoa cars at the Helm (for some reason!). The sheets don't work in the Genoa cars and the jib is currently fouling on the pulpit and safety wires. So my compromise was to use the back end of the Jib rails. .. Am I wrong?
I will watch that Top lift, thanks .... but it is slack in the photo.

If your fouling lines they will clear the mast easier if you can get the lines further out ahead of the mast - push the cars forward and you will clear the mast better - the aft position of the cars is for a larger sail - that jib is not very large - use the cars in the forward position and when you come about the sheets will pull around the mast much easier and the sail clew will be pulled down tighter to the deck and make you point better.

As for the topping lift - it's too tight for a boom vang - If I rigged a vang on that boat the topping lift would defiantly be in the way - I would be able to pull a full 10 inches out of the end of a boom with a vang and you don't have 10 inches to spare in that topping lift.

Everything is too tight on the longitudinal parts of your rig - we use vangs and cars to pull down the foot of our sails to make them very tight in the latitudinal shape (we pull them from bottom top to make them flat and wing like) - then we use the sheets to adjust the longitudinal shape of the sail to control the bend in the sail -

Often we pull in too tight on the sheets because the sail is luffing but luffing can also be reduced by pulling down on the foot of the sail and flattening the leach so it does not flutter - then with a nice tight leach you can let out the mainsheet a little more and still point just as high and lean over less and go faster with less drag.. Sail shape 101

[sailboatmike]

Moving the jib cars forward will help stop the leech flutter on your jib, thats why the cars are adjustable so they can be moved depending on the wind conditions.

The jib cars in the forward position pull down on the leech and this along with adjusting the leech line will also assist in stopping curl on the jib

[Neo]

Thanks Boat and Mike .... I didn't notice any leech flutter but I'll definitely be trying that next time I'm on the water ... Roll on that day

[Neo]

.... release the genoa sheet before the boat makes the turn - just let it fly - don't try to get the genoa around the mast - just let it fly.

Hi BOAT, I tried the above (three times) but my Jib went crazy! (flogging) every time and the sheets wrapped themselves up in knots. Had to run the bow to un-snag a few things so I could roll the jib back into the furler .... And this twisted mess was the end result .... What am I doing wrong?

[Baha]

What a great thread!

On my , I had the same issues and actually had my first sail in pretty high winds. Did a few "Chinese" gybes and had her on her side quite a bit.

I could not tack on some points of sail without stalling, period. I decided to just keep the motor on and handy, and practice with very slow, easy tacks, watching the sail shapes and experimenting with my timing on when to release and then power up the headsail. Gradually, I got to where I knew what my speed had to be before starting the tack, which I think is the most important but often misjudged part of the tack.

I didn't see this mentioned before, but reefing is important. If you want to make a sharp turn on your tack, you need daggerboard. If you are heeling big-time, you should not (as I understand it) have your daggerboard all the way down, because that just amplifies the heel. All I have currently is the one reef point. I am telling myself that I will put in the 2nd one when I need my main sail worked on.

Lastly, in the winds I encounter when river/coastal sailing, which tend to be gusty, having a smaller headsail really makes your life easier.

Just my 2 cents.....

[sailboatmike]

If you are heeling big-time, you should not (as I understand it) have your daggerboard all the way down, because that just amplifies the heel. All I have currently is the one reef point. I am telling myself that I will put in the 2nd one when I need my main sail worked on.

Lastly, in the winds I encounter when river/coastal sailing, which tend to be gusty, having a smaller headsail really makes your life easier.

Just my 2 cents.....

You should have your dagger board all the way down unless your off the wind (not going into it), then you can have you dagger board up at different levels depending on you angle to the wind, the further off the wind you come the less you need the dagger board for directional stability.

I have my swing keel up about 1/2 way on a broad reach, while it brings the center of effort further back I find the best part 1/2 knt boat speed from lifting the keel

[Baha]

If you are heeling big-time, you should not (as I understand it) have your daggerboard all the way down, because that just amplifies the heel. All I have currently is the one reef point. I am telling myself that I will put in the 2nd one when I need my main sail worked on.

Lastly, in the winds I encounter when river/coastal sailing, which tend to be gusty, having a smaller headsail really makes your life easier.

Just my 2 cents.....

You should have your dagger board all the way down unless your off the wind (not going into it), then you can have you dagger board up at different levels depending on you angle to the wind, the further off the wind you come the less you need the dagger board for directional stability.

I have my swing keel up about 1/2 way on a broad reach, while it brings the center of effort further back I find the best part 1/2 knt boat speed from lifting the keel

I think it also depends on tide and current. If the current/tide is already pushing you over, then you need to use a little less dagger board. I will have to find the article I read...try to find it...that basically talks about depth of daggerboard and adverse effects on heel/speed/etc.

[BOAT]

.... release the genoa sheet before the boat makes the turn - just let it fly - don't try to get the genoa around the mast - just let it fly.

Hi BOAT, I tried the above (three times) but my Jib went crazy! (flogging) every time and the sheets wrapped themselves up in knots. Had to run the bow to un-snag a few things so I could roll the jib back into the furler .... And this twisted mess was the end result .... What am I doing wrong?

The same second that you release that jib TURN HARD - turn the boat as fast as you can at the same time you release the jib - don't just sit there going in the same direction with the sail flopping - TURN

[Neo]

Did a few "Chinese" gybes and had her on her side quite a bit.
I decided to just keep the motor on and handy, and practice with very slow, easy tacks

How far did you heal into the water?
I do the same with the motor but I feel like I'm cheating myself

I'll give it another go BOAT but I'm thinking I really need something to to slow down the release of those ropes.

Thanks for the tips gents