I posted a simple mod (linked here) that allows a small outboard (such as our Honda 2hp) to be carried on the swim ladder of a 26X. It's on the mod page, if anyone is interested. The solution worked well on our recent two-week cruise in the San Juan islands.
[mod]ModEdit: Moving to Modifications ~fc[/mod]
Dinghy Motor Mount on Swim Ladder
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Rick Mathews
- Deckhand
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 11:48 am
- Location: Portland, Oregon
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jasper
- Chief Steward
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:33 am
- Location: Canada '98 Mac 26X2226E898 Yamaha 25T
Rick,
Is the line from the swim ladder to the port stern rail enough to keep things in place? It looks like 1/4" line.
I installed two pieces of marine plywood bonded together to make a 1 1/4" mount attached to the port stern rail with 2 U bolts. It works but is a bit high and I am a bit concerned by the location. I am using a 2 1/2HP Suzuki O/B which I think is about 28lbs.
However, I like what you ahve done and will likely go with the same.
Is the line from the swim ladder to the port stern rail enough to keep things in place? It looks like 1/4" line.
I installed two pieces of marine plywood bonded together to make a 1 1/4" mount attached to the port stern rail with 2 U bolts. It works but is a bit high and I am a bit concerned by the location. I am using a 2 1/2HP Suzuki O/B which I think is about 28lbs.
However, I like what you ahve done and will likely go with the same.
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aya16
- Admiral
- Posts: 1362
- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
yes this also works on the M swim ladder. and Scott and I have mounted them. The mounts are out of the way when not being used and work great when used. A line has to be tied to the ladder to keep the motor upright
but when you arrive you toss the motor on the dink and the ladder is free.
If you dont use the motor and get off the back of the boat as I do then I take the motor off and tie it upright to the mast at mooring. Using the main motor to swing your arss off the boat and into the dink works great.
but when you arrive you toss the motor on the dink and the ladder is free.
If you dont use the motor and get off the back of the boat as I do then I take the motor off and tie it upright to the mast at mooring. Using the main motor to swing your arss off the boat and into the dink works great.
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Rick Mathews
- Deckhand
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2004 11:48 am
- Location: Portland, Oregon
I'm glad this will prove useful to some folks. The key was to stop thinking that the mount had to go on the "bottom" (topmost when folded up) rung of the ladder, and realize that it would actually work better mounted on a vertical rail of the ladder, allowing it to be swung out 90 degrees. Thanks for the kind words.
Catigale: Yes, I believe there is enough room to squeeze by the motor, but it can simply be swung to the side out of the way to allow more room if necessary.
Jasper: The swim ladder is actually tied to two places on our boat. It is tied first to a grab bar mounted above the swim ladder (which puts the grab bar behind the ladder when the ladder is in the up position). I didn't want that to be the only tie point, however, because it is low and there could potentially be a lot of leverage above it. Hence the second line to the grab bar. I daresay that the line to the grab bar would be enough in itself. As long as the knot is secure, that single line should be enough to keep the ladder from "getting started" backward. There's actually not a great amount of tension on it since most of the motor weight is pretty much straight down. I can't attest to how this would work on an M, but it sounds like aya16 got it to work!
Catigale: Yes, I believe there is enough room to squeeze by the motor, but it can simply be swung to the side out of the way to allow more room if necessary.
Jasper: The swim ladder is actually tied to two places on our boat. It is tied first to a grab bar mounted above the swim ladder (which puts the grab bar behind the ladder when the ladder is in the up position). I didn't want that to be the only tie point, however, because it is low and there could potentially be a lot of leverage above it. Hence the second line to the grab bar. I daresay that the line to the grab bar would be enough in itself. As long as the knot is secure, that single line should be enough to keep the ladder from "getting started" backward. There's actually not a great amount of tension on it since most of the motor weight is pretty much straight down. I can't attest to how this would work on an M, but it sounds like aya16 got it to work!