KIPOR Digital Inverter Generator "KGE 1000 TI

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Tahoe Jack
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Kipor Generator

Post by Tahoe Jack »

I didn't intend to indicate that I recommend the double-ender folks. :) ...Kmcl recommendation is the proper solution.
I have seen the double-ender work...however, you of course must insure that the connected loads on the circuit are below the sustained capacity of the generator....and at best, this is an emergency short term approach. Try at your own risk...and get some professional oversight. For regular planned backup, snag the proper gear. 8) Jack
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Post by Highlander »

My Kipor manual instructions say's its ok to charge automotive type batts direct just remember its the same as using an manual battery charger it will not reduce the charging rate as the batts are charged so you have to keep an eye on it but if I'm on the boat that would not be a problem if I was not able to keep an eye on it I'd just use my automatic 120v 6 amp charger my manual also say's I can use the ac & dc opperation at the same time
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Post by baldbaby2000 »

when power service fails, kill the main box switch, and plug the double ender into any duplex outlet on a circuit you wish to activate....works fine...when power comes back on, pull the cord, and switch the main on. Jack
The power companies don't like this because if you forget to kill the breaker, or someone turns it back on while the generator's running, it could create a safety hazard for workers working on the power lines.
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Post by AJ »

Have seen the Kipor and Honda running side by side. The Honda is significantly quieter under the same load conditions despite the figures claimed by Kipor.
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

AJ wrote:Have seen the Kipor and Honda running side by side. The Honda is significantly quieter under the same load conditions despite the figures claimed by Kipor.
Yeah, that's what I figured. I can't really imagine a generator being any quieter than the Honda, frankly - it's barely audible from 20 feet away when running on 110v 'eco-throttle' mode.

As for charging the boat's batteries, I do use mine for that, but then I have a Xantrex Link 200 meter and I watch the batteries to see when they are close to being charged and can cut it off before I hit boilover. It only puts out around 8 amps, so it's not gonna fry them in any event.
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Post by Catigale »

I bungee mine behind the ladder (in the aft berth) from the companionway. I close the vent valve on top and haven't had any gas fume problems.
BB, YMMV but if i understand this you are putting a device with gas in it below decks?? This isnt a really good idea - you could imagine if it got loose and gas spilled you could easily BOOM yourself....

No liquid fuels below deck is a sound practice..please consider..
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Post by Highlander »

Well I've heard the honda & kipor running together because I almost bought one they had two koolers running side by side the kipor was putting out alot more then I checked out the koolers the kooler running off the honda was set at low the kooler running off the kipor was set at hi I turned the kooler running off the kipor down to low then you could'nt tell the diff :wink: when I questioned this I was then asked to leave the booth :) :) :o . But My pocket shure could so $1100.00 Can. versus $325.00 Can. I can buy three of them for that kinda money a budy of mine went back to the auction next month they had all kinds of makes of inverta's up for grabs but the kipors were going for $500.00-550.00 Can that day bigger crowd so more bidders.
But then I'm deaf in one ear & can't hear out the other so their maybe a small noise diff. but not enough to warrant the price diff . but I'd not buy one from any dealer to much money for either one
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DLT
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Re: Kipor Generator

Post by DLT »

kmclemore wrote:
Tahoe Jack wrote:At home, some folks fab a double ender male male cord, and when power service fails, kill the main box switch, and plug the double ender into any duplex outlet on a circuit you wish to activate....works fine...when power comes back on, pull the cord, and switch the main on. 8) Jack
Ohhh.. I'd be real careful on that one. Keep in mind that when you back-feed the system you're placing the entire load on a circuit that's only designed for what's hanging on it - not the whole house! Better to have a proper transfer panel put in - they aren't really that expensive and they will save you a possible fire.
Yes, do be careful. But, here's what I did when the power went out:

1 - Flip the main breaker off, thereby taking the house off the grid. This is one of the most important things you must do.
2 - Flip all the other breakers off.
3 - Plug the generator into an outdoor circuit. You gotta be careful dealing with a double male-ended cable. Unlike the regular extension cord, the male prongs on one side could be hot... You simply plug it all in before you start the Generator.
4 - Start the Generator. At this point, the guts of the panel are still dead, but the circuit side of the breaker is hot, so treat the whole panel as if its hot from here on out...
5 - Test that Circuit. Plug in a light or something to the same circuit.
6 - Flip the breaker back on for that circuit only, thereby backfeeding the panel, but just the panel, as the rest of the breakers still are off. Again, though, err on the side of caution...
7 - Flip the circuit for the kitchen, powering the refridgerator, back on - this is often the most critical circuit anyway.
8 - Flip the circuit for the furnace, if its winter and there is no gas smell in the house. If you have a gas furnace, this is probably fine, since the blower motor is typically a relatively light load. You'll soon know if its too much, as the generator will shut down. If you have a heat pump of some other electric only heat source, you probably don't want to try it...

If any breaker trips. Stop. Find out why. Unplug unecessary things on that circuit.

That's about it. Do NOT try running the whole house backfeeding through one circuit. The kids can read and do homework at the kitchen table.

When the lights come back on down the street. We just:
1 - Flip all the breakers back off.
2 - kill the generator.
3 - unplug the generator.
4 - Flip the main on.
5 - one by one, with a pause between, flip on each circuit.

If you are going to try to run more than the most basic stuff, then you really do need a dedicated transfer switch.

A couple of words about 120/240 wiring. Your panel is likely 240v (aka 220, 230, etc...) Each of the two insulated hot legs coming in to your house likely feed one of two buss bars embedded deep within your panel that you likely never see. Your double breakers, the ones that take up two full spaces, likely actually bridge across both buss bars. Things like Heat pumps, Air Conditioners, Electric Dryers, electric stoves, ovens, probably each have their own double breaker.

NEVER, EVER flip one of those double breakers back on if you are only supplying 120v (aka 110, 115, etc.) - basic wall plug stuff. This is bad mojo for many, many different reasons. The best case scenairo is that your generator goes dead before you let the smoke out of everthing. The worst case scenario is letting the fire out of something. What would likely happen is probably somewhere in between, but could very well end up burning something up... Its bad, don't do it!

Ok, if you have a generator that does supply 240v and you want to back feed, then you need an external/outdoor circuit that is also 240v. It is very unlikely the you actually have one of these. If you have something like an outdoor hottub, maybe, although most of these are probably hard wired directly back to the panel... Bottom line, to use that 240v, you need some way to get that 240v to your panel. Unless you really know what you're doing, this means getting an electrician to wire it up for you. Well, guess what, a dedicated transfer switch won't be much more, may even be cheaper...

You could theortically use an inside plug for an electric dryer, or something like that. Don't get me started on running a generator in doors (or even in the garage connected to the house). You can die doing that. Enough said. But, where is that plug? You could run a cable outside, but how long is that going to be? How long of a cable do you want to make for this project, cause you ain't gonna find one pre-made with the right connectors at both ends. Do you want to leave that door open/unlocked? You can't close it on that big of a cable (don't use cheapo small gauge wire). Even then, you need to keep the generator far enough away from the open door to avoid exhaust coming in.

Ok, lets assume you got your 240v generator feeding your panel properly. Is it rated to power your whole house? If so great, go find another thread to read... If not, then you need to figure out what it can and can't power. The loads that it can supply should be balanced between those two hot legs... If they are all on the same leg, then you are asking the generator to fight with one hand tied behind its back. Any unbalance is a bad thing here... But, the closer you are to rated capacity, the more of a problem this is going to be...

Back to the panel. You likely have two rows of breakers. Breakers across from one another are typically on different buss bars (hot legs). But, its not as simple as you might think because they typically also alternate as you go up/down a row. So, if you were to put your finger on any single breaker. The one accross from it, above it, and below it, are likely on the "other" buss bar (hot leg). It can be confusing, but this alternating thing is what allows the double breaker to provide 240v...

So, again, if you are running a 240v generator, properly feeding 240v to the panel, and its not rated for the whole house, then make sure that what you do run is properly balanced between those buss bars (hot legs).

Ok, most people trying to back feed are probably trying it with just a basic 120v generator (or a 240v capable generator using just its 120v capability). This is where you are using the basic 120v outdoor circuit. Well, the best you can do here (without getting really crazy/stupid) is to power the one buss bar that this ciruit is connected to. This means that you really need those critical circuits to be on the same buss bar as your outdoor circuit. Remember how the circuits typically alternate in the panel?

One last thing to keep in mind. If you experience a big city/area-wide type black-out, where are you going to get gas for the generator? If its not that big of a problem, wouldn't you all be more comfortable in a hotel/motel for a day or two? If its not a wide spread problem, then you should be able to find a hotel pretty close. Also, if its not wide spread, then in this day and age the power companies are pretty good at getting the lights back on quickly, 'cause they like to see the meters spinning even more than you do...

We sold off our big generator, which we never used except for testing. The hotel approach is our plan. If we can't find a place to stay in town, we're just going to take a last minute trip out of town... As for work, there is very little I absolutely can't do with an internet connection and a phone, most hotels provide both these days... As for the kid's school, if our power is out, so is theirs...
Last edited by DLT on Tue Jan 23, 2007 8:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by waternwaves »

DLT..........

If I may,

Anyone who needs to read up on how to backfeed their house wiring with a generator........

Probably should not be doing it.

Not that I turn down the incidental odd job repair work....
But mistakes are just not worth the cost.
I am not making any inference about your method or writing here..... merely that it is too easy for an underinformed reader to make a major mistake, not to mention illegal in most jurisdictions.

JMHO.
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DLT
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Post by DLT »

Yeah, clearly... If you don't know what you're doing, don't... I would hope that goes without saying... I went through that whole discussion mainly to show people that there is just so much more to it than might appear at first glance... It was not meant as a how-to guide...

If you really want to power your house with a generator, a properly rated generator and properly wired transfer switch is the way to go.

Like I said at the end, we don't even mess around anymore. Its too easy to just find a hotel/motel if needed...

And, of course, as I've said before, I'm no electrician and certainly don't know what's even legal in any jurisdiction... Furthermore, I have no way to know the specifics of how any specific house is even wired, or what someone is trying to do... So, the above discussion is clearly not aimed at any specific situation...
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kmclemore
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Post by kmclemore »

waternwaves wrote:DLT..........

If I may,

Anyone who needs to read up on how to backfeed their house wiring with a generator........

Probably should not be doing it.

Not that I turn down the incidental odd job repair work....
But mistakes are just not worth the cost.
I am not making any inference about your method or writing here..... merely that it is too easy for an underinformed reader to make a major mistake, not to mention illegal in most jurisdictions.

JMHO.
I'm with you. I take risks once in a while -- heck, I even re-wire switches and outlets when they're still hot -- but back-feeding a home wiring system is one I'd never do.

Pictures of my home genset... Honda v-twin - 11000 watts - key-start - stays on a trickle charger at all times. It works a treat and runs the whole dang house. If the power goes out around here in the winter we can be out for literally days... and as we're on a well for all our water, have forced-air oil heat and have 3 refrigerators in the house, there's *NO WAY* I'm going without power - cripes, without power I can't even go to the head! Besides, I figure if we avoid only one cold snap that could have frozen the pipes in this house, that genset is basically paid for. We even run it when we have heavy lightning, since by doing so we effectively isolate the house from any brown-outs or surges.

I posted clear instructions next to the transfer panel and identified each component so even my kids could hook it up and run it.

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Post by beene »

Holey crap Kevin… you are one seriously prepared dude!!

When the power goes out here, I just flip over to “I guess we’re camping in the house” mode. Just use the house as one big tent and ruff it. The kids love it when that happens, just one big adventure. Of course we never stock too much meat in the freezer just in case this happens.

G
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Post by baldbaby2000 »

BB, YMMV but if i understand this you are putting a device with gas in it below decks?? This isnt a really good idea - you could imagine if it got loose and gas spilled you could easily BOOM yourself....

No liquid fuels below deck is a sound practice..please consider..
I figured I'd get some criticism on this one. I know it sounds bad but I've monitored the generator carefully and I've never seen a leak or smelled any fumes. It's secured pretty well. Of course I don't run it down there, just secure it there.

BB
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Post by David Mellon »

I must admit I am woefully prepared for a serious power outage. I figure that any long term outage would be the result of a temblor. My plan is to turn off the services to my house and move into The Yam. I figure it would be the safer bed. Besides it is comfy, heated, has an entertainment system and most importantly Shock Absorbers! To that end I keep extra bedding, clothing, water and shoes aboard. If a quake hits at night most folks are barefoot. I keep fuel and canned goods in an steel shed. Actually a good quake is my best bet for bedding down with the pretty divocee next door. Hmmm, I think I'll go pray to the god of earthquakes...Posieden!!
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Post by Highlander »

Nice to know I'm not the only sick puppy around here :D :D :D :cry:
so what are you telling you've you bin laden but not lately :D :D :D :P
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