Bottom Paint advice?

[LOUIS B HOLUB]

I cant find anything on doing the Mac bottom job. Im sure many have done their own, and Im considering doing it myself--on the trailer (lowering the front of the trailer, blocking the back of the boat before cranking the front upwards which will raise the back of the boat off the bunks -- and then reversing this procedure to finish the front of the boat). The quotes I have are $700. to $1200. by boat shops (sorta sounds a little pricey)
Has anyone found this feasible to do ? I couldnt find any references in the archives.

Thanks for any help, ideas, etc.

[jg9546]

I am going to bottom paint my 26M in the spring.
Check Featured Articles section on the left hand side(menu). There is a good article about bottom painting http://macgregorsailors.com/articles/bo ... ng.php[url] . As far as bottom paint you may consider Vivid paint which is a hard type paint but had been designed for trailarable boats. Two days ago I helped retrieve my friends Catalina 27, which he bottom painted with Vivid this spring. The bottom of his boat was completely clean like new (cold lake in the mountains of Utah) after five months in the water.
You can find this paint at West Marine catalog.

Good luck,

Jacek[/url]

[argonaut]

I only know enought about bottom paint to know that there's no universal, works best everywhere type of bottom coating...
You need to know what your locals say works well. Warm salt water's different from cold salt water, fresh water's different from both. Heck in Florida what's used on the east coast isn't the favorite for the west coast. IMHO different local critters require different anti fouling approaches. Also a trailered boat's probably going to need different treatment than an in-the-water boat because some coatings degrade faster out of water.
So, where is the boat and how much time does it spend on a trailer?

[Ron]

I painted the bottom paint on my Mac 26x last November. I used the paint recommended by the local West Marine.

Concerning time and effort, it took me about 3 days to completely bottom paint the boat. I didn't spend the entire 3-days painting, but to let it dry (and let cramped muscles relax) it took a total 3-days.

I applied two coats. Additionally, I removed the centerboard and painted up in the well. If you paint on the trailor, you will see how Michaelanglo felt doing the Sistine Chapel. You'll be on your back between the boat and the ground. Also, it is a messy job. I had little black specs all over my clothes -- Actually, make sure you cover up well with googles, respirator, and painting clothes you don't want.

Depending on the value of your time the lower end, $700, doesn't seem that bad. Especially if it includes the paint which can be $100/gal. Don't forget you'll need brushes, rollers, and something to protect your driveway, etc. which all adds to your cost. Just make sure they will also paint up in the centerboard well, especially if you keep the boat stored in the water.

[Craig LaForce]

If you keep the boat at a marina with a lift, ask nicely if they will put you on the lift overnight so you can sand and paint the bottom, assuming this is not against the policy or whatever rules are local to the area.
Do the waterline of course before going on the lift.

It only takes a few hours that way. I use a simple pole sander, then unscrew that and put a roller on. I am careful and having done it about 7 times now, hardly even get a spec of paint on me. There is no lift at the marina I am at now, so may have to trailer it somewhere to find a lift next time. But I am in fresh water now, so not that big a deal except for zebra mussels.

I used to use co polymer ablative, but it comes off a little too easy and then the barnacles can hop on. I use a high copper epoxy now. Maybe I will switch back after getting a few coats of epoxy on there.

I only put one coat on mine each time.

I can't see paying someone 600 bucks to avoid 3 hours of labor.

[Skip Matthies]

I used the method you suggested Louis. It worked fine. I did put on a couple of coats of epoxy before the bottom paint. Six months in fresh water had left many small blisters. You might consider this while you have the boat positioned to paint if your in fresh water. The sanding, epoxy and bottom paint job took three days. No more blistering and no more green gunky bottom. Bought the paint from WM. That stuff is gold! Do the center board too as recommended. Enjoy
McSkipper 99

[Rob S]

Six months in fresh water had left many small blisters. You might consider this while you have the boat positioned to paint if your in fresh water. The sanding, epoxy and bottom paint job took three days.
McSkipper 99

Skip,

I have that problem. How did you deal with the blisters before applying epoxy?

[James V]

Here is a link -
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/blisters.htm

another -

http://westsystem.com/webpages/epoxywor ... lcoat.html

good luck.

[Night Sailor]

Louis,
I think Interlux Micron Extra is the perfect paint for boats used both on the trailer for months at a time and in the fresh or salt water for months at a time. It can stay in the water indefinitely and will wear well for several seasons as well as stay out of the water without harm for all year.

At your Gulf coast latitudes, antifouling is a problem that happens fast in warm summer water. I had the Micron Extra with Biolux antifouling put on in earlly summer and have zero slime or algae on the hull as of this writing, with boat in the water full time.

I did the hull, centerboard and the box with three coats, and a fourth coat a foot wide around the water line. I brought the paint up to within three inches of the black boot stripe and so far there is no hull staining about the paint.

While you are at it, if you ever take the grandkids out to beach the boat for picnics or adventures or shelling, consider installing the Keel Shield between the bootstripe and the centerboard slot to protect the hull. I did and it did not effect the boats performance in any measureable way. Keel Shield is a better product that other products with a similar purpose, has a better warranty, and the president of the maker will answer your questions via email, herself.

[Skip Matthies]

Rob S
RE Blisters
I put our 99 in a fresh water lake in SoCal in January of 2000. after taking it out for a trip late that spring I had to clean the new boat thoroughly of course. I then noticed the blisters. I found out that fresh water penetrates faster than salt, especially warm fresh water such as we have in southern cal. The problem was fixed by light sanding of the areas. The biggest blisters were smaller than a pencil eraser and bled water when scaped. we were surprised. Anyway, two gallons of epoxy yeilded six coats and a bottom like a destroyer. The boat has always had a bone dry bildge and has gotten around california, catalina, nevada, arizona and recently Powell in Utah. She went back to that lake for a year with no further outbreaks of blisters. The bottom paint does add a bit of drag if your concerned about speed.
The folks at WM provided a lot of info.
Good luck with your problem Rob

[R Rae]

This is my procedure:

When cleaning, and or painting, my method involves using a pair of automotive ramps (available from just about anywhere). I run the trailer up the ramps, braking at the right moment (that's important!).

Remove the tow vehicle and using the trailer jack, I first lower the jack to work on the aft end, then raise it to do the front. Then, I re-attach the truck, pull the boat down to the ramp, float the boat sufficient to push it back on the trailer about 10 inches.
Back on the hard, I get to work on those areas previously covered by the trailer bunks. If I've been painting, I may allow 24 hours for the paint to dry before shunting the boat back.