M trailer brakes - another update

[Paul S]

Got the parts for the brakes for our 04M trailer

What I plan on doing: replacing the brake pads, rotor/hub, check/replace the bearings.

what I have done:
broke 2 studs off the wheel, got the rest of the lugnuts off with a lot of effort, propane torch and penetrating oil.

Today I did:

Started taking apart the port side axle today. Took the pad carrier off..this was harder than expected..as the pads kind of welded themselves into the caliper bracket. Several hits with a hammer and screwdriver to free all the edges of the pad..wiggling the pad carrier(and pads) ..finally got it out. The caliper bracket was a bear to get off..torqued on quite well. Got it off finally (use 1/2" drive, I used 3/8 and didnt have enough leverage). So I got the brakes apart..caliper looks good so far..just a quick cleaning, sprits of paint, and it will be good to go. Rotor/hub is toast. pads are pretty worn, not totally though.

But as I could see..no wonder the braking action was so bad. The pads couldnt move in the bracket to save it's life!

I am beginning to think this should be an annual service on the trailer - break down the brakes and lubricate the hardware and lube the carrier/slides.

At least that is what I am seeing, especially since we boat almost exclusivly in salt water.

I will post some pictures later, and a how-to tutorial. If you have done disc brakes before. it looks like a piece of cake...just some grunt work.

Paul

[RandyMoon]

Paul, how many miles do you think you have on your trailer? How many times in and out of the water?

[Paul S]

maybe 8-10K on the trailer. Dunked the trailer 30-34 times in 3 years

Paul

[Paul S]

some pics of the progress. Click on an image to enlarge it.



Trailer on jack stand. Loosen lugnuts while on the ground. Remove the nuts once up on the stand. DO NOT work on a jack ONLY.



Before image




Caliper bracket mounting bolt



Caliper mounting bolt with allen head socket mounted





Pad retaining clip



Caliper mostly off...got stuck when pads would not release from caliper mounting bracket



edge of pad ..rusty...wont slide well in bracket...heck didnt come out without a few smart blows













It is also worth noting that there is no brake hose going to the caliper. When you remove it, it is pretty secure with the steel brake line holding it.

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

so i take it that you have never, ever rinsed the salt water off...
mann, even my 4 year old X isn't near that bad.

[Paul S]

it looks worse than it is... dont you have drum brakes on the X?

I didn't really wash the brakes every time...time to time i would hit it with the hose..but usually didn't

I am sure if I kept up after it..it would be better...The master cyl went dry (not sure why) so the brakes stopped working..so they couldnt clean the rotors...so the rotors got more and more pitted...And I never removed the lugnuts and lubricated the threads.

The 4 mounting bolts came out without issue..the bleeders broke free easily..

I think removal of the caliper and greasing everything would ensure flawless performance.. I am thinking of doing this annually at least now.

Once I get the rotors off, I will post more pics and update the progress


Paul

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

my process is to always rinse right after initial launch.
i can't remember a time that i brought it back in the same day, so the trailer sits several days before I put the boat back onto the trailer.
therefore, rinsing after the initial launch is very helpful in maintaining it's "rosy glow".

i do have drums, but have replaced with galvanized parts and a flush kit.
has worked flawlessly for the last two years (knock on wood).

however, i will be adding a second axle this fall and may rebuild the brakes/hubs/bearings again.

[Paul S]

my process is to always rinse right after initial launch.
i can't remember a time that i brought it back in the same day, so the trailer sits several days before I put the boat back onto the trailer.
therefore, rinsing after the initial launch is very helpful in maintaining it's "rosy glow".

i do have drums, but have replaced with galvanized parts and a flush kit.
has worked flawlessly for the last two years (knock on wood).

however, i will be adding a second axle this fall and may rebuild the brakes/hubs/bearings again.

There is no water source near most of the ramps I go to. I guess I could carry a garden sprayer filled with water and give the brake parts a spritz after dunking before leaving it for a few days.

Paul

[Bobby T.-26X #4767]

There is no water source near most of the ramps I go to. I guess I could carry a garden sprayer filled with water and give the brake parts a spritz after dunking before leaving it for a few days.
Paul

you're gonna have to figure something out after you've spent all this time and effort to re-build.

how about purchasing a couple of collapsible 5 gallon water bags like the one's we use in our Mac. $5-6 at Walmart.
fill prior to launch & one for each hub.

then when you bring your Mac up, rinse off immediately at home.

[kmclemore]

I'm thinking an ordinary garden spayer - perhaps a stainless one* - mounted to the trailer frame, and the output going to a valve, then into two lines, each leading aft to a brake, with a nozzle on the end of them that is fixed to the frame and directed to aim at the brakes. Before you leave home you fill the sucker with water, then once you've launched (or recovered) just pump it up, hit the valve and you're good to go.

There's money to be made in selling a kit like that!

(* Maybe use a standard 2-gallon sprayer, as below left, or even one of those Zodi shower tanks as seen on the right... I like the Zodi idea 'cause it holds much more.)

[RandyMoon]

Ouch. That looks like a major undertaking. I just looked at the manual and they advised to wash salt water off because of the corrosive properties.

Since I use my trailer twice a year, I am wondering if I should be coating certain surfaces with something like WD-40 for protection each winter?

[Robert]

One rust preventer I can think of is Weeatherpruf by



"Tough, clear weatherproof coating. A single coat provides 1 year of rust and corrosion protection in outdoor applications. Transparent coating will not harm metals, and may be applied over paint. Easily removed with mineral spirits, or may be painted over without additional preparations needed."

http://www.kanolabs.com

I suggest calling the KanoLab or other provider of such a product and ask them spcifically if this is a good product for boat brakes. I suspect that you could just leave it on and the first application of brakes will clear it off. I wonder if it will interfere with the caliper sliding on pins motion. Probably ordinary rustoleum spray paint would work too.