Lug Nuts
- aya16
- Admiral
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- Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:29 am
- Location: LONG BEACH CALIF Mac M 04 WHITE
The impact wrench is from the motorhome mods, Those lug nuts are tuff to break loose. And trying to get them loose by hand just made me think theres a better way. So I bought the elec. impact rated for a couple hundred punds and it took them off no sweat. You have to hammer on them with it for some time but it works. Now I use th impact on all the lugs I own when I want them off. As far as power for it the motorhome has a generator on board and the Mac isnt very far from power when serviceing the wheels, like before a trip. If I get a flat (not on the Mac yet)
and I feel a little lazy the Auto club can handle it. Next would be Karen then I guess ill take a wack at it. Unless a passer by wants to do it for me
as I tell them how great the Mac is.
90lbs no lube and do every other nut at a time.
and I feel a little lazy the Auto club can handle it. Next would be Karen then I guess ill take a wack at it. Unless a passer by wants to do it for me
as I tell them how great the Mac is.
90lbs no lube and do every other nut at a time.
Well said Kevin and I agree 100%.
I was taught by a master mechanic over 30 years ago to never use any lubricant on lug nuts, always use a torque wrench, use opposing pattern and torque 3 times 1/3- 2/3- then full torque. I guess old habits die hard because I still do it that way today and have never had a wheel come loose.
If a shop has to remove/install a wheel for any reason, I always loosen and retorque when I get home.
Incidently, this helps prevent warped rotors also. I had a 88 Honda Accord with 200k miles and it still had the original rotors. Always sanded the rotors with emory paper (never turned) when I installed the pads and always used a torque wrench.
Greg
I was taught by a master mechanic over 30 years ago to never use any lubricant on lug nuts, always use a torque wrench, use opposing pattern and torque 3 times 1/3- 2/3- then full torque. I guess old habits die hard because I still do it that way today and have never had a wheel come loose.
If a shop has to remove/install a wheel for any reason, I always loosen and retorque when I get home.
Incidently, this helps prevent warped rotors also. I had a 88 Honda Accord with 200k miles and it still had the original rotors. Always sanded the rotors with emory paper (never turned) when I installed the pads and always used a torque wrench.
Greg
- craiglaforce
- Captain
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: Houston, Tx
Impact wrench? Torque wrench? Generator? Anti sieze? Torgue wrench cozy?
You have to be kidding. Just get a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a hunk of steel pipe about 4 feet long that fits over the handle. That will loosen just about anything.
I keep the nuts dry. No gunk, goo or badger milk. Tighten in a star pattern several times around and stop when they make a crack crack crack sound.
3 little crack sounds and the torque is perfect.
Man, I feel like Sloop John B.
You have to be kidding. Just get a 1/2 inch breaker bar and a hunk of steel pipe about 4 feet long that fits over the handle. That will loosen just about anything.
I keep the nuts dry. No gunk, goo or badger milk. Tighten in a star pattern several times around and stop when they make a crack crack crack sound.
3 little crack sounds and the torque is perfect.
Man, I feel like Sloop John B.
- Night Sailor
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: '98, MACX1780I798, '97 Merc 50hp Classic, Denton Co. TX "Duet"
dry lube
After twisting off two lug screws, I started using dry lube (graphite) on the lugs. Now I can use my torque wrench without a hassle, and no more expensive, knuckle busting repairs.
- Hamin' X
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Re: dry lube
When using lube on the studs, be sure and reduce the torque by 20%. If you apply full torque, you will risk stretching the stud, or distorting the wheel.Night Sailor wrote:After twisting off two lug screws, I started using dry lube (graphite) on the lugs. Now I can use my torque wrench without a hassle, and no more expensive, knuckle busting repairs.
Rich
- Night Sailor
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makes sense
Thanks Hamin'X. I tend to be conservative now after the failures and did reduce torque by 10%. Upon your advice, i will reduce the torque further.
- Night Sailor
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- Sailboat: MacGregor 26X
- Location: '98, MACX1780I798, '97 Merc 50hp Classic, Denton Co. TX "Duet"
When we were autocrossing our personal cars, we used 18 then 24 volt impact wrenches to change from street to racing tires and then back again for the drive home. 12v didn't do it. 18 just barely does four wheels, 24v does it handily. I haven't tried using it on the X trailer as it is much harder to undo than the cars and trucks, though both are torqued the same with a click wrench.
I think that, at least on my early ,98, the lugs and nuts are not properly mated. There is no rust. I've never had such a problem with seizing on any other vehicle or trailer I've ever owned or rented.
I think that, at least on my early ,98, the lugs and nuts are not properly mated. There is no rust. I've never had such a problem with seizing on any other vehicle or trailer I've ever owned or rented.
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LOUIS B HOLUB
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- Catigale
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Wrapping it up again - I cant overstate the most important thing - do an HOURLY inspection of your wheels, tires, lugs, and bearings when you trailer these rigs. You will catch stuff getting loose and/or hot before you are in the badlands that way. An hourly break is good for the driver too - helps keep you alert.
On our 4 hour pilgrimage to Cuttyhunk I stop after hour one, refuel hour two, stop hour three, refuel car and boat last hour.
On our 4 hour pilgrimage to Cuttyhunk I stop after hour one, refuel hour two, stop hour three, refuel car and boat last hour.
- tangentair
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