New boat problems?

[James V]

My new MAc 26 should be delivered on Jan. I have heard of problems that need to be worked out. What problems have you had with your new Mac 26M that I should be on the look out for

[richandlori]

Problems that need to be worked out? Well I think that most of the M owners experiences are on "little things" in the finish of the boat. There has been some past concerns over a nice gel coat finish, and overall completeness of the assembly, but much of that relates to the dealer installations and boat prep, not the factory. I wouldn't go into it "looking" for problems, just keep your eyes open. If you have a reputable dealer, he will make the process easy and give you some time to look things over and still help you out 30 days later when you finally notice something you don't like.

All in all, I think the "problems with new boats" aspects of the Mac are over hyped a bit and not as bad. Remember few people "complain" when all is well, but make lots of noise if all isn't well.

Enjoy the adventure you are about to begin.

[elia]

I would suggest that you check that the engine steering linkage is tightened properly. On my second cruise, with about 6 hours on the hull and running under power the nut came off the bolt attaching the linkage to the engine. I was on the Chesapeake Bay, in the middle of a whole bunch of crab pots and going around in circles (not a nice feeling).

If I recall correctly I am not the only person this has happened to.

[Hamin' X]

Tighten the lug nuts on the trailer.

[Richard Lisch]

I received my 2004 M in April of 04 in a container directly from Sharp Marine in California with all available options installed in perfect condition, it even was polished (they forgot to install the ordered disc brakes but send me after an additional axel including brakes for $300) . Since then I did not encounter any problems even though I am using the boat almost weekly, year round. Best investment I made on the boat was the Honda 50 I believe.

[Mark Karagianis]

Some problems are really silly. Be prepared to keep more tools than usual for the shake-down runs.

Here are my encountered problems at 4 months 12 sails:

First sail -Motor ran fine until we shoved off and gassed it - sputter sputter. Turns out the quick-release fuel line wasn't properly seated. My leg stopped the boat at the sea wall - it only hurt a little.

Second sail - Could not get winch to release boat & launch because of too much tension. Hammer and 2 x 4 on the pin made it release - the winch handle threw the 2 x 4 fifteen feet up after breaking it - and my arm only hurt a little.

So I resolved to really get that mother on there. Never motor onto the trailer like they show in the video. I broke one of the trailer support pads right off.

Now I do the Mac bump. What is it when you hear something sliding and hitting but it's not the boat? It's the unsecured hatch sliding forward and smashing into the deck fitting.

When washing down the boat, soap makes those sharp metal fittings for the mast raining / lowering rig wickedly sharp - I needed stitches but used duct tape instead - for two weeks.

Our shower - yeah, we got that too - would only pay out one foot of hose. Kinks under there are bad.

Bring lots of extra ropes to tie up any rigging cables that could rub on the deck - 'cause they will and will mark up the finish. Mike & Jeff Inmon (Our Dealer) says to use Ajax.

We now drain all of the water ballast out on the ramp. If it's too crowded we use a steep hill near our house. I tried leaving the valve open going over the Sepulveda Pass into the San Fernando Valley and it kept people on the 405 from following too closely. Even with the ballast "empty", if you forget to close the forward air relief valve you will get strange mold under the polyvinyl deck cover.

Every time I raise the mast something is not where it is supposed to be. Usually it's one of the jib sheets, but everything that this process can screw up will happen.

Hope some of these will help you. We love our boat, and someday I will start to finish trailer to shove off in under one hour.

Mark Karagianis

[LOUIS B HOLUB]

The post from "HAMIN'X" is correct...when lug nuts become loose, they shear off the bolts immediately. I've experienced it FIRST HAND. Its not a "FUN THING" seeing your STARBOARD side aluminum wheel passing you up on the concrete at 50+ MPH, after hearing a "LOUD THUD". I was fortunate not having any SERIOUS DAMAGE though...but TIGHTEN THE LUG NUTS...keep a LONG LUG WRENCH on hand in case of a flat too.

HAPPY SAILING to you and YOURS.

[richandlori]

Ok, I should note that 20%-30% of the nuts on everything from the mast to rudders were only hand tight. Lost one Rudder and almost lost the mast....good thing the bolt was put in from the top, because the Nut was GONE...GONE..GOne.

[baldbaby2000]

Most of my complaints are dealer related: make sure your roller furler turnbuckle has slip rings to keep it from undoing itself; mine didn't and I'm glad I checked. Our shore power plug was installed on a non-flat surface and leaked. The screws holding the front hatch spring prop were too long and came through the ourside of the hatch...ouch! The VHF radio was wired to the aux switch which was not a clean enough power source and the radio speaker put out noise even when squelched; I blame Cobra for this too having not designed the radio better. The motor lock down system used when the motor was disconnected from the linkage just wasn't in the right spot. I had to add another stud so this was usable. In my opionion you want to be able to disconnect the motor linkage from the steering for sailing and even slow motoring.

The Macgreggor related stuff was OK other than the poor paint job on the trailer. You'll probably want to do some mods just to make things easier to use; check the mods section. Enjoy!

BB

[ChrisP and Pam]

First, CONGRATULATIONS!!!!

James, the first problem, I had was when launching. I was luanching alone and I slid off the trailer sooner than I wanted. And I slid right into a the tight confines of the marina at the gas docks. In the panic to start the engine for the first time and look natural and in control, I got it started but failed to realize the importance of the dagggerboard being in the water when motoring slowly to get some steerage. I managed to get to the gas docks but only after I bumped into an inflatable dinghy! Hmmm, boating accident, 10 seconds after my first launch. And it was my fault entirely. So be careful!

ChrisP

Again, CONGRATULATIONS!!!

[RandyMoon]

First sail -Motor ran fine until we shoved off and gassed it - sputter sputter. Turns out the quick-release fuel line wasn't properly seated. My leg stopped the boat at the sea wall - it only hurt a little.

I had the same problem repeatedly. I solved it by doing this 10 cent mod.
http://www.macgregorsailors.com/cgi-bin ... record=601

When I got my M, the dealer did a pretty through job. I found a wire crimp that was loose, a screw into an interior cover plate stripped, and a wire hanging down. Simple fixes.

BUT, I have heard other Mac guys say they picked their boat up, got home and looked inside and there were boxes of a hundred parts waiting to be installed. My dealer took care of all of the for me. So it gets down to the dealer and how much they do for you. My boat was pretty complete when I got it.

The frusterating thing for me was that (not being a sailor with 20 years experience) there were all the rigging things you have to do to raise the mast and get all the goodies hooked up. The Mac manual is especially written to use the least amount of paper possible. It was probably written by a 20 year sailing veteran who assumes you know everything they do. If you are a newby, make sure your dealer walks you through what it will take to rig the boat. Now I look back at it and laugh because the manual is pretty straight forward now that I know what I am doing, but it was a big mystery when I rigged it the first time.

Luckily for you, there are a great bunch of friends on this board who will gladly help you with any questions. Like some of the others said, make sure all the nuts are tight, etc. When you get into the wind, there is a huge amount of stress on things. And when you put you boat in the water, fill the ballast and put the dagger board and rudders down or you will have zero control in a strong wind. Many of us learned that lesson the hard way.

Welcome to the board. What color hull did you get? Where are you planning on sailing?

[James V]

Thanks everybody for the advice. I have been sailing for years. I used to singlehand my 16' day sailor. It was a problem putting it back on the trailer until I attached a bow line and a stern line long enough for me to to guide it in without getting my feet wet. The Mac 26 is not the biggest boat that I have sailed singlehanded, just the biggest that I have owned. I should not have to much problems, Just need to do the "New Boat Drills" to get it all down. The first 7 days should be interesting. Hopeing to avoid all problems that I can.

This board really helps.

I will be sailing in SW Florida. I am working all the time while I can get it and will use the boat on vacations unless the job ends and then .....

I bought the white hull because I wanted the inside tempature to be a low as possible. The blue hull should make the boat a little warmer. I also like white.

[ALX357]

PVC pipes, slid over the goalposts, and over the horizontal guide bars, with heavy rope inside. Tied off at rear thru hole in end cap with stop-knot. At front, line goes thru both PVC and hollow steel rod, tied to ladder. Not alot of sophistication, but is is accessible and can be replaced easily. Regular coupling joints used, takes 2-1/2 pipes per side, one coupling high and out of the way, the other, covered by a Walgreens automotive shelf seat-belt shoulder velcro-closed pad.
THe rope adds strength, and allows only a bit of stretch, while a second rope is tied to the cut T on the forward end of the pipe at the bow to keep the PVC pulled tight. IF the boat hits the pipe sideways, it will give a bit and not bend the upright goalposts, though the front guides may get bent outward a bit, not on the pipes themselves, but the steel plate at the side of the rubber V-block.
Also visible is the pair of 2x6 pressure treated side boards attached from the base of the goal-posts with galvanized straps, to the fender tops with a carriage bolt from the bottom of the fender up into the 2x6 which has been wrapped with in/outdoor carpet and stapled on the outboard side, and has counter-sunk nyloc nuts on the cut bolts, so that nothing metal projects above the top surface. Keeps the boat from hitting the trailer fender, keeps it centered on the trailer, and provides a step for seeing/reaching into the cockpit from the side, ( if you don't over-do it and bend the fender mounts down.)









on an unrelated subject, the photos show a toolbox attached on spare tire mounts along with a spare hub and tire. The three heavy steel tire mounts and the box with hydraulic floor jack, jackstands, hydraulic bottle jack, and what-not else, has the dual function of not only being a convenient place to store that stuff, but adds enough weight on the tongue of the trailer to minimize sway.

[Divecoz]

I bought mine from Bill at Bill4boats WWW.boats4sail.info on this board. Of the few things discussed by others on this board Bill had already changed and numerous things others are and continue to work on, these had all done/ addressed by Bill when I first picked up my boat. IMHO much of your initial satisfaction or dismay will lay in the hands of your dealer. Is he a Sailor or a Salesman ? IMHO again, there is a big difference between the two . . .
You will no doubt LOVE your Mac I know we do
Richard