26s Rudder Question

[Rwitalka]

Yesterday I was hauling my boat out for the winter. A 26s with what I think is the original rudder, has an up haul and down-haul rope on it. As I was Navigating from the slip to the launch I was fighting current and winds and was having difficulty controlling the tiller, the outboard tiller, the outboard throttle and the outboard forward/neutral/reverse all at the same time. I attempted to bring the boat's rudder up, but it only went to about 90 degrees, it wouldn't completely clear the water. This made things worse, not better.

I have placed the boat in storage now so can't just go out and look at it, but the more I think about it the more I am wondering if I shouldn't have been able to raise the rudder a full 180 up (so it was pointing skyward), and it was my up-haul or down-haul rigging that was preventing it.

I guess what I am asking is:

1. For most people with a MacGregor classic, does the rudder come full up out of the water without removing retaining bolts or other mounting hardware on the fly?

2. With only 2 hands and the motor behind you any wisdom on maneuvering close to the docks/slips? Away form the dock I just lock the motor straight an steer with the tiller but with the motor offset and the lower speeds near the dock that trick doesn't work and I am left feeling like I don't have enough hands.

[Maraquita]

I have a 26D, and not a stock rudder. A previous owner installed one of the plastic “improved” ones. The rudder blade is bolted into an aluminum fitting that hangs on the transom. At this point the rudder blade does not come up high enough to point at the sky, but does come up higher than 90*, perhaps about 110*. The boat is already in the barn, but using a straight edge, I’m pretty sure it would be out of the water, certainly no more than the first 6 or so inches would remain submerged, and then no more an inch or so under the surface. The back of the aluminum fitting on mine is a bolted on plate, depending on how much of that plate I am willing to cut off at the bottom, I could get the rudder substantially higher. The uphaul rope is attached about 8” out from the pivot when the rudder blade is up and so has plenty of leverage to pull the blade higher if it did not run into the aluminum plate. I’m not sure how different yours might be.
I really only retract the rudder when I’m beaching the boat or putting it on the trailer. At a dock or slip, the outboard is always locked straight ahead and treated like an inboard engine. I don’t know whether the “improved” rudder helps, or whether the daggerboard makes that much difference, but I can maintain steerage down to practically a dead stop. If I have to dock in an exceptionally strong cross wind, I do sometimes notice very wide eyes on bystanders faces as I come in, but have always got it slowed down at the last minute so that I can step ashore and tie up without any thing sounding expensive!
Hope this helps

[JamesToBoot]

Good question @Rwitalka,

I haven't gotten this far on my new-to-me 26s. I will need to get on this soon.

I did do some research and looked thru the 26s manual. Here are the two pictures I found:

[WinSome]

Our experiences with the rudder are similar with Jamestoboot. Similar lifting and steering actions. Similar lift angles. My pics aren’t loading today?? Centreboard down of course!
Only on rare occasions when the boat was new to us, did we need to rotate the outboard. A bit of practice and the rudder will do it all. That leaves a hand to operate the throttle ( very little needed), and the shifter. Be aware that reverse takes some time to start to respond!

[JamesToBoot]

As far as maneuvering in tight places, I only have experience on the precision 18... but here are my thoughts:

It is tough!

• Wait for the winds to die down.

• Lowering the centerboard greatly increased maneuverability, especially in cross winds. Mount a 2x4 to the end of the trailer so it will kick up the centerboard if you forget to pull it up as you ride up the trailer. (Probably a good idea regardless)

• Only put the motor in gear for a few seconds to get the boat moving, then just use the tiller. Most sailboats have the outboard locked in place, not allowing the to turn.

• fabricate a gear selector extension for better reach

• fabricate a rod connecting the tiller and motor, allowing the motor to turn w the tiller.

• find an easier and more protected boat ramp

• mostly practice, practice, practice!

I eventually gave up on the little 6HP 4stroke the p18 came with in favor of a 55lb thrust trolling motor and a 290ah lithium battery. The tiny trolling motor allowed me to lash the tiller and use the trolling motor alone which can turn 360 degrees, allowing me to turn in place if needed. The 6HP 4 stroke was way too much for the p18 anyway, weight wise. (I love watersports, but I don't want to hear a motor when I'm headed out to sail). Also note, I'm on a lake with no currents/tides.

Maybe you could so something similar w your outboard... Lash the tiller and just use the outboard to maneuver.

I hope to use the trolling motor setup on the 26s as well, but we will see.

[Rwitalka]

Thanks for all of the replies!

I agree - practice, practice, practice - and I will continue to do so. You are also correct I had the centerboard up (and shouldn't have) in preparation for putting it on the trailer (that could have and should have been raised after I tied up at the launch).

It sounds like the recommended approach is to just leave the motor locked in place, rudder and centerboard down. I will work on that some more. I remain concerned about steerage at low speeds but with practice and a little more confidence - maybe. I am also going to take the advice to build a linkage for the shifter and spend more time working on these maneuvers BEFORE I need them. We got alongside OK with a quick flick at the right time but it was more excitement then it should have been and I was glad I just had to come alongside and not into a slip.

The other lesson I learned is I should have thought through the approach more and changed my landing spot. It would have been easier to land across the end of the dock then along side it but I got tunnel vision.

[JamesToBoot]

Good question @Rwitalka,

I haven't gotten this far on my new-to-me 26s. I will need to get on this soon.

I did do some research and looked thru the 26s manual. Here are the two pictures I found:

Finally got those pics uploaded this morning. No idea what was going on yesterday.

[JamesToBoot]

Thanks for all of the replies!

I agree - practice, practice, practice - and I will continue to do so. You are also correct I had the centerboard up (and shouldn't have) in preparation for putting it on the trailer (that could have and should have been raised after I tied up at the launch).

It sounds like the recommended approach is to just leave the motor locked in place, rudder and centerboard down. I will work on that some more. I remain concerned about steerage at low speeds but with practice and a little more confidence - maybe. I am also going to take the advice to build a linkage for the shifter and spend more time working on these maneuvers BEFORE I need them. We got alongside OK with a quick flick at the right time but it was more excitement then it should have been and I was glad I just had to come alongside and not into a slip.

The other lesson I learned is I should have thought through the approach more and changed my landing spot. It would have been easier to land across the end of the dock then along side it but I got tunnel vision.

Hindsight is 20/20. I can read and watch all the vids I want, but I learn loads from failed attempts.

Steerage at low speed is aweful. There is no way around that. It takes more speed than I am comfortable with. I like going as slow as humanly possible around other boats. Tis why I like using a trolling motor. Allows for steering at no speed.

I'm hoping shifter linkage makes things more manageable for you.

[Rwitalka]

I am going to look into the trolling motor - I like that idea, I agree - around other people's boats (into and out of slip) - I want steerage at as low a speed as possible.

Thanks for the pictures. My rudder didn't get quite that high - from the picture that rudder looks like it would be out of the water. Mine was laying down at 90ish degrees and was half in half out - worst of all worlds. I will take a look at that too and see what is preventing it from being raised further.

Going to continue to practice as well. Right now the wind blown currents cause the most issues - cross current coming from starboard entering the fairway with my slip on the starboard side - so entering the fairway being pushed away from my slip trying to turn into the current needs more speed then I like to carry - particularly since I am usually single handing.

[JamesToBoot]

Those cross winds are a beast. For sure that centerboard will be night and day for you in the winds. Keeps the boat from drifting as much and greatly increases steering capability. Definitely start there and see what that gets you.

Single handing is awesome. A bit freeing and relaxing too because your not constantly watching over someone elses safety. Put on some classical instrumental, or some 90s alternative rock.. Golden!

Keep us updated the next time you go out. Will be looking forward to reading about your progress!

[WinSome]

Here’s my pic 26s pic ( I couldn’t include the other day) showing rudder uplift in travel position. Practice, it’s gets easier.

[Rwitalka]

Those cross winds are a beast. For sure that centerboard will be night and day for you in the winds. Keeps the boat from drifting as much and greatly increases steering capability. Definitely start there and see what that gets you.

Single handing is awesome. A bit freeing and relaxing too because your not constantly watching over someone elses safety. Put on some classical instrumental, or some 90s alternative rock.. Golden!

Keep us updated the next time you go out. Will be looking forward to reading about your progress!

Couldn't agree more. The peace and quiet is priceless

[PrairieMoon]

Using the stock mount, original or aftermarket rudder will lift all the way out of the water, not much more, maybe 10 degrees. (Kick-up rudder mounts are a whole 'nuther story.) I'm no puss, but I found it really hard to raise the rudder out of the water with a single line. I fashioned a little 4:1 block to do the job, attaching to the rudder with a removable D-shackle, and a loop at the top flops over the tube that attaches to the tiller. Now it's effortless.

[LakeMac26C]

I'll just second the points others have made. Low speed steering sucks. The CB down helps, if your marina is deep enough. The rudder retracts only 120° or so, but is easy for me to lift using the uphaul. I might have modified the geometry a bit here and it helped. The boat has enourmous windage with that big 'ol cabin. The kicker/tiller setup is as awkward as it gets. I have an aftermarket engine mount which is nice, but places the 10hp even further away. I often sit like a troll inside the old engine well just because control is a bit easier from there. I have yet to fashion an extension for the throttle and gear shift, but it should help and will prevent me from going to troll town.

[Rwitalka]

You captured my problem exactly. At least I feel like I am in good company. My marina wasn't deep enough to leave the centerboard down so I had all of the issues you describe, including climbing in the well to handle the throttle and gar shift. I have been scouring the internet and local used markets and think I have all the parts now to remote the throttle and gear shift. That should allow me to use the rudder and leave the outboard fixed, although I continue to worry about the impact of the motor being offset on steerage. I am moving to a deeper water Marina next season so hopefully be able to leave the centerboard down. Practice, Practice, Practice.