Centerboard will not go all the way up / retract into the hull - 26s

[tuxonpup]

I like the wench idea,

But I hit a bit of a hiccop:

Well, that'll happen when you start to like the wench idea... congrats!

[Jimmyt]

I like the wench idea, just trying to think of a way to hide it under the galley... maybe replace the pulley with the wench instead and have the working end accessible out the side so its a little polished and so your not hitting it w your hip as you walk by.

But I hit a bit of a hiccop:

Precious! Congratulations!!!

[Be Free]

But I hit a bit of a hiccop:

Yeah, but it was a cute one! Congratulations!
(And they are near the top of a very short list of things that are more fun than sailboats!)

[Russ]

But I hit a bit of a hiccop:

Yeah, but it was a cute one! Congratulations!
(And they are near the top of a very short list of things that are more fun than sailboats!)

This ^

[JamesToBoot]

Small 600lb winch on the way.

I chose it over the tennis net wench and the truck trailer lashing. Seems the best idea when taking in account the size, ease, and coat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0749GHC ... prod_image

https://www.amazon.com/Zonon-Tensioning ... 226&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Lashing-Winch-Up ... 02&sr=8-11

[NiceAft]

Small 600lb winch on the way.

I chose it over the tennis net wench and the truck trailer lashing. Seems the best idea when taking in account the size, ease, and coat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0749GHC ... prod_image

https://www.amazon.com/Zonon-Tensioning ... 226&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Lashing-Winch-Up ... 02&sr=8-11

I have been following this thread, but not being an engineer, I have avoided making comments. That being said, it just strikes me as strange that a winch is the solution. Why haven’t we seen posts about that problem from other owners of that Mac model? Again, not an engineer. Waiting to read the results of the winch mod.

New born babies I can speak on. Congratulations on the addition to your family.

[JamesToBoot]

That being said, it just strikes me as strange that a winch is the solution. Why haven’t we seen posts about that problem from other owners of that Mac model?

Agreed, not sure what I'm missing. Is there a 2:1 system hidden under the sink in most 26S's that's not in mine?

I don't think so, the throw distance between cb down and up is something like 2 or 3 feet. There is not that kind of room under the sink, and there certainly isn't double that distance for a 2:1 system...

Thoughts?

[NiceAft]

Again, not an engineer.

I keep thinking that if all else is fine, either the pin that CB hinges on, the seat it is in, the hole the pin is in, is worthwhile suspecting. I should probably just refrain. There are others with much greater knowledge in this area.

Cute kid.

[Be Free]

I'm on board with putting in a winch to make the job easier if that is what you want to do. Some folks have added a 2:1 segment to their 26X lifting line or their rudders. Even though I'll be starting my last trip through my 60's in a couple of months I've never felt that either were difficult to lift so I've never added either to my boat.

My only caution is that I'd want to be 100% sure that everything is working properly first before adding a force multiplier into the system. If something is actually binding and you add the winch you may find where the problem has been hiding. Hopefully the revelation won't be accompanied any expensive sounds.

[OverEasy]

Hi All!

I’m with Be Free

. My only caution is that I'd want to be 100% sure that everything is working properly first before adding a force multiplier into the system. If something is actually binding and you add the winch you may find where the problem has been hiding. Hopefully the revelation won't be accompanied any expensive sounds.

That said is there any chance that somehow over time that the lift rope may have worn a groove or something similar into some portion of the path where the lift line runs? Might it be possible that as the keel lifts up the lift line angle changes and gets additional friction or binds in a worn section? Are you sure there isn’t some portion of the line path that is getting temporarily bent or deflected or kinked?
(Your system is different that that of the Mac26X which is my only first hand reference).

Note that when putting in a 2x pulley system there will be twice the line travel …. Which explains why your looking at a winch….

Best Regards
Over Easy

[JamesToBoot]

Just ordered this guy too:

https://www.amazon.com/Zonon-Tensioning ... 212&sr=8-3

According to grok, the 83lbs will be 5lbs force. Can anyone confirm?

I have a math problem I need help with.
======
Sure, I'm ready! What's the math problem?
======
I have an 83lb weigh attached to a crank or spindle. The crank/spindle is .5 inches thick. The crank/spindle handle is 4 inches long. How much force is needed on the end of the crank/spindle handle to pull the weight up?
======
To figure out how much force (pounds) you need to apply at the end of the 4-inch handle to lift an 83 lb weight, we are dealing with a simple lever / torque balance problem (class-1 or class-2 lever, essentially a winch or crank).
Key assumptions (standard for these problems)

The weight is being lifted straight up at a constant speed (no acceleration), so we only need to balance the torque — we do not need extra force for acceleration.
The crank radius (distance from the center of the spindle to where you push/pull) = 4 inches.
The spindle itself is 0.5 inches thick → radius = 0.25 inches (this is where the rope or chain is wrapped, so this is the load arm).
Friction is negligible (if there is significant friction in real life you’ll need more force, but the question doesn’t mention it).

Torque balance:
F * 4 = 83 * 0.25
F * 4 = 20.75
F = 20.75 / 4 = 5.1875 lb ≈ 5.2 lb
Mechanical advantage = 4 / 0.25 = 16, so 83 / 16 ≈ 5.2 lb (same answer).

Answer
You need approximately 5.2 pounds of force at the end of the 4-inch handle to lift the 83 lb weight (assuming no friction and lifting at constant speed).

[PrairieMoon]

I didn't see this possibility mentioned: On most 26S, the centerboard lift line comes up through a tube, around a block and through a metal stop before it proceeds forward, around another block, then aft to the hole out into the cabin. (Yeesh.) In the water, the centerboard can actually swing forward beyond perpendicular, and this stop was added to prevent that. From your description I deduce your line has been replaced before. If it wasn't done properly, you might have a knot or connection hitting the stop on the back side, preventing the line from passing even though the centerboard is free to continue. Pull the raising line until it stops, then stick your head under the sink and look up. If that's the problem, you'll see it.

[PrairieMoon]

Regarding the trailer's crossbar under the centerboard, it's a boat-saver. I read recently that many sailors release the raised centerboard so it can rest on the crossbeam once the boat is on the trailer. When you think of the leverage the heavy centerboard has on that lift line as it bounces down the road, that strategy makes sense to me, so I'll try it this season. I wrapped a thick pad of carpet around the bar to cushion the centerboard. Just gotta remember to raise the centerboard all the way up before launching...

[LakeMac26C]

I also have a 26C and I also have this problem. Mine has access to the centerboard pin from the bottom of the boat though. I have also added a thicc layer of rubber matting to the upgraded centerboard catch bar on the trailer. The CB now rests permanently on this rubber mat, hitting every damn bounce in the road. My CB seems to be a bit hollowed out (next years project IF i dont sell the rig next spring). I also replaced the stock metal wire/rope combo by drilling out (from underwater...LONG story) the epoxied combo out of the CB and attaching a simple rope and bowline knot. I also replaced the pulleys under the galley basin which helped.

All in all, Im 90% sure my problem is a combo of the thick rope knot hitting the CB trunk (mine narrows mercilessly near the top of the trunk), the pivot hole providing some jambing/misalignment, and something fouling the CB trunk like barnacles or other flaura.

I have NOT had the boat up on bunks like you have done because i didnt want to die by my cursed boat crushing me. It looks like you did yours safely and smartly in a good location. I dont have those tools/options so I kinda gave up.

TL:DR, check for fouling and make sure your rope and knot are thin enough as to not hit the trunk, esp when swollen with hydro. If you figure it out, tell me first. It may be the reason I ended selling mine.

Congrats on the newborn! My young son generally likes the boat and we have had some fun times on the water.

[JamesToBoot]

Tah dah! works great... Went w the 600lb trailer winch (smallest I could find), over the tennis net crank (it was too difficult and the line against the side would cause friction and would bind).

• removed the cleat and reused the top most hole of the cleat for the bottom hole of the winch
• created two hdpe plates for the winch to sandwich the fiberglass to provide more strength
• test fitted and drilled the top hold for the winch into the fiberglass using the hdpe plates as a guide
• reused the stainless bolts/nuts from the cleat, adding in stainless washers on both sides, to mount the winch.

I don't think this is the ideal location, but I did think it was the simplest and easiest, using the fewest holes drilled in the boat (I hate drilling holes in boats).

I did end up using the original mounting point in the centerboard (it lines up perfectly when the cb is all the way up).

The 600lb winch is overkill. I couldn't find anything smaller. You will have to be careful. I will need to make markers on the cb line to make sure its not overtightened by my family or visitor who's not familiar with the system.

All in all, I think I probably removed the cb 15 or 20 times and have gotten very knowledgeable and efficient at it. Please let me know if I'm missing anything.