Goseneck

[kurz]

Hello
My Goseneck locks quite stressed.

Any idea why it happened?

See pic.

[leefrankpierce]

Unusual forces from being trailered with the boom on, or putting it into travel position.
I trailered for years that way, even left the mainsail on a few times, did some damage, have it in a slip now.
My boom now leans to 1 side, but still does its job.
Also managed to screw up the rivets, had to get a special rivet gun and large stainless rivets.

[Ixneigh]

Looks cooked to me. They do wear over time, at least mine has. I might buy a replacement from BWY next season.
Ix

[tuxonpup]

Thanks for that pic, BWY’s included that u-shaped bolt holder on top of your gooseneck attachment and wasn’t sure where it went until looking at your messed up one. Now I have a tack attachment rather than cheating it over to the reefing hook!

[OverEasy]

Hi Kurz!

How has your sailing season been?
It must be beautiful where you are!

Just for reference here are a couple screen shots from the Blue Water Yatchs on-line catalog relating to the Gooseneck replacement hardware available:















It’s hard to tell from the photo you posted what is merely bent vs. what is actually broken but it seems you might not need an entirely new gooseneck assembly. Stainless can generally be gently bent back into shape as long as it’s not wiggled back and forth too much (metal fatigue).

If one was to go the bend it back into shape route… It your call entirely however you want to proceed….I’d probably follow a process described below:
- Removal of the hardware from the mast and boom
- Throughly clean and rinse the parts
- Check carefully and throughly with a 10x magnifier to ensure there are no cracks present.
—- >> If anything is cracked I’d just scrap it and get new! <<—-
- Then, out of an abundance of caution, I’d heat anneal anything I was contemplating bending back into shape. Generally this means heating it with a Propane Torch till it is SOLIDLY RED hot for several minutes… I’d keep it there for at least 5 minutes or more. (While not perfect it’s a practical pragmatic approach short of putting the parts in a proper thermal temperature controlled annealment heat treat furnace … If you have access to one go for it!)
- Then, preferably while it is still hot, I’d gently bend the affected parts back into proper shape. Ideally without much hammering if that can be avoided.
- Following that I’d reheat the parts back to a SOLIDLY RED hot for at least another 5 minutes or more then allow the parts to slowly air cool back to room temperature. I wouldn’t quench anything in water or oil as I wouldn’t want to chance en brittlement. Better that the parts can potentially deform rather than have them actually snap.
- Once cooler I’d reinspect the parts for cracks ( scrap any with cracks) then I’d buff the parts so they are shiny and reinstall.
NOTE: One part I’d definitely straight out replace would be the bolt and self locking nut. Just better off with new for a variety of reasons.
On a similar note I’d seriously consider going back in with new mounting hardware wherever possible.

So this is only my suggestion on what I’d consider doing. The call is yours to make.

Best Regards,
Over Easy