trailering

[March]

I have attempted to upgrade the after-market aluminum two-axle trailer with additional guiding post, mounted upfront (roughly on the front hatch level) plus two additional guiding horizontal ones in the back, cockpit-level, that are supposed to keep he boat straight and stable. I felt mighty proud and confident.

However, when the boat floats in the water, the rear ones are submerged and have no effect whatsoever. The front ones help a little, but not as much as the "corral" I have benefited from, on the older, original steel trailer--upgraded to two axles.

I think I will sell the aluminum one and keep the steel one, the one with the PVC corral. I have repainted it and the steel is still strong, no soft spots, since it was seldom used in salty water. Only the back posts had to be reinforced and re-welded. The rest is A-OK

[Jimmyt]

I have been recovering all types of boats for about 50 years and never felt like such a dunce on the launch ramp. Good to know it’s not all me.

My experience also. Loading a 26M on a trailer in a nice cross wind was one of the most humiliating public experiences I’ve had. I tried to drive it on like a bass boat, or ski boat.

However, when the boat floats in the water, the rear ones are submerged and have no effect whatsoever.

Yup. The ramps I typically use are deep, and the guide posts are barely above water (I have PVC extensions), while the front V-bunk is above water. I have to have crew keep the boat centered between the guide posts as I come up the ramp, or it won’t settle into the rear bunks properly.

[chadwiseman]

I’ve had a heck of a time loading mine on the boat.. two points..

1. when I get it up to the nose cranked in, when its out of the water i find the boat is pulled back 6-8 inches. I’m assuming that is stretch in the racket strap.. I’m concerned with putting too much pressure on the strap that I’ll pull the front attachment out of the boat…

2. With the rudders up its not a great steering boat at slow speeds.. I have to have someone pull me in with rope (100ft) and then a second bow line to keep me from driving port or starboard that I use to keep myself cantered…

It’s been such a struggle loading on the trailer and not having the nose far enough up I’ve decided to get a hearth next year..

[OverEasy]

Hi All!

The windage and or current drift when loading our Macs can be a hassle! Yes indeed!

Here’s a picture of what we have set-up on our Sea Lion Tandem trailer that may be useful.
We have a 4 tall posts and that has provided us with enough height to deal with the steep ramps.
When the wind or current wants to push us about I pre-emptively time before backing down the ramp to tie a line from the post tops on one side to the winch post and the around to the post tops on the other side to make a guide.
This has worked reasonably well for us.

There can still be a bit of fiddling to get the boat to be exactly centered some times but not often.





Hope this helps some.

Best Regards
Over Easy

[chadwiseman]

It does help. My plan is to also use a rope tied to the dock to be able to pull my self at a 90 to the trailer while my wife helps guide me in…

Nice trailer, does it fit the boat well? What is the model and did you have to size it for the boat? From the picture looks like a ton of bolted connections and very few welds. am i correct?

[OverEasy]

Hi Chadwiseman!

We inherited the Sea Lion trailer when we bought our Mac26X.
It was purchased by the PO.

Sea Lion has a website that has the current models available:
https://sealiontrailers.com/
Sea Lion makes a pretty well thought out trailer that we are happy with.
Parts are reasonably available when needed (rarely) and the galvanizing is good quality.

Yes ours is a bolted galvanized open box beam construction that self drains and is generally accessible for inspection.
We did add drain holes into the welded axle cross beams to ensure they always drain.

Aside: From a basic design engineering characteristic….There is always the potential for welds, especially bulk production welds, to have porosity or pin holes. Then when the trailer frame is hot (like when sitting in the hot sun) then submerged into colder water it can suck water into closed beams which remains entrapped leading to internal rusting. Professionally, unless I can ensure and monitor that a sealed box structural beam or pipe can be kept at a known positive pressure above atmospheric I generally avoid sealed beam construction. I prefer to have designs that work with the inevitable and design things so that they can naturally vent and drain themselves as well as providing a means to inspect the interiors. Better yet I prefer to utilize open structure beams like I-beams, C-channel or Angle beams over Box beams when possible or appropriate.

One thing on any trailer is to regularly inspect it for any issues, mechanical/use/maintenance/age related, that may arise and deal with them proactively before they become problems. Personally I tend to remove & replace bolts and nuts when there is any significant rusting of the exposed threads. Not that it happens much but it is a lot easier than dealing with a compromised or failed joint.
Note: Avoid using SST hardware on galvanized structures as it can lead to potential dissimilar metal corrosion.
Use Galvanized for Galvanized.

Pre-emptive inspection & maintenance can be somewhat harder to accomplish with welded sand painted (or post welded galvanized) sturctures. One needs to regularly inspect welds for any cracks (on both sides when possible) or nicks/gouges that can be stress risers. Then when found the fixing can be a bit of a hassle … ie. grinding, prepping, welding, dressing, cleaning, priming, repainting, & etc…)

Hope this helps…

Best Regards
Over Easy