Front sail roller furler seems a little 'clicky'

[returnofthemac]

It seems to be more difficult than it should be to roll in the front sail after a few hours of sailing. If there is the slightest amount of wind on it, it takes a lot of force to get it rolling. It then rolls in short steps: it clicks, rolls, stops, clicks, rolls, stops.

I'm not too familiar with what is in the mechanism, but it feels like it is binding on something or perhaps has a bad bearing? It also seems to be getting worse! I don't recall it being like this when I first took it out. Has anyone encountered this before?

[Jimmyt]

They can be persnickety. Your furling line must enter the drum perpendicular to the forestay. If your foil has kinks in it from storing it strapped to the mast, it will tend to have harder spots in each rotation - mostly a problem as the breeze picks up. Finally, if you have a big Genoa, and you're in a blow, it can be difficult to start the furl due to the drag on the sail. I assume you headed up before trying to furl. Mine won't furl under a load. The CDI Furler and the cheaper Furler that my boat came with don't have any bearings (CDI offers optional I think), so if it's dirty and dry, there can be a lot of friction under load. I took mine apart and cleaned it, then sprayed all of the sliding surfaces with dry Lube. It improved quite a bit.

When I grow up, I'm going to do like Highlander and buy a quality headsail Furler (I probably won't buy as many as Highlander, though ).

[closehaul]

If not already done, try easing the jib halyard to take load off the thrust bearing in the drum. Good luck.

[Be Free]

I can't help with the problem; I've never owned or worked on one. However, I have known multiple people who have had problems spanning the range of scary knockdowns (with injury) to sinking caused by a roller furler that would not furl when they needed it to. Please treat this as a potential safety issue and don't give up until it is working correctly.

[Jimmyt]

...Please treat this as a potential safety issue and don't give up until it is working correctly.

Absolutely agree. If I had been single-handing when mine hung up, I'd have been in a bad situation. It never hangs up when there is little to no wind.

[DaveC426913]

Your furling line must enter the drum perpendicular to the forestay.

Good point. OP: is your furler set up correctly?

For example, does your furler run through one of these?

Finally, if you have a big Genoa, and you're in a blow, it can be difficult to start the furl due to the drag on the sail. I assume you headed up before trying to furl. Mine won't furl under a load.

I single-hand and I fly a 150 Genny. It can be hard to start in a blow. Luffing/pinching the foresail for a moment should make it easier.

I (try to) wear sailing gloves in anything over 10 knots for this reason. That furler line can cut.

[returnofthemac]

I'll upload some photos shortly of the exact setup I have, but I'm pretty sure the rigging is good.

It seems like there are a few variants of the headsail mechanism. So, I'll likely be taking mine down to service it for peace-of-mind. I'll document that here.

Agreed that it can be a big safety concern. Hypothetically what is the proper course of action in the event of bad winds and a jammed furler line? If it were me, I'd release all lines to the sail. It might make a noise and be distracting but I'd imagine it wouldn't be able to catch much wind for too long.

[NiceAft]

Your furling line must enter the drum perpendicular to the forestay.

Good point. OP: is your furler set up correctly?

For example, does your furler run through one of these?

Finally, if you have a big Genoa, and you're in a blow, it can be difficult to start the furl due to the drag on the sail. I assume you headed up before trying to furl. Mine won't furl under a load.

I single-hand and I fly a 150 Genny. It can be hard to start in a blow. Luffing/pinching the foresail for a moment should make it easier.

I (try to) wear sailing gloves in anything over 10 knots for this reason. That furler line can cut.

DaveC,

If a captain has the setup you show, fine, but it is not necessary. For seventeen years now, my setup is to have the furler line leave the drum and simply go around the forward, port stanchion post before going straight to the cockpit (dealer set this up). It has served me well with my 150 Genny. No additional holes in the deck.

[Jimmyt]

Hypothetically what is the proper course of action in the event of bad winds and a jammed furler line? If it were me, I'd release all lines to the sail. It might make a noise and be distracting but I'd imagine it wouldn't be able to catch much wind for too long.

My opinion.
Depends on whether you're alone, or you have crew aboard. Also depends on how much of a blow you're in. If you're alone, in under 25 knots, you might get away with heading up and letting it flap. If you have crew, I'd go forward, start the furl by hand, and get the sail secured. Mine will usually furl once I get a few wraps. Above 25 knots, you're going to need to get the sail down. If you have big power (engine), and an autopilot, you might be able to get it furled, but going forward when by yourself is risky. Hopefully, you won't be out by yourself in that sort of weather with full sails out.

Note that 25knots is really a range of 20-30 and also depends on the sea state. If you are dealing with heavy chop or big rollers, maintaining a good heading into the wind is difficult. Side loading that big sail in a blow, even with it flogging, is going to heel the boat uncomfortably. I've sailed in that range with about a beach towel area of main and Genoa. The gusts (35+), would heel the boat dramatically - even with that small area up. I was reaching, maintaining a reasonably comfortable track with the waves.

My advice is, reef (furl) early, before the wind speed gets much over 15 knots. Everything is easier to deal with before the wind gets too high. If you are by yourself, you have a better chance of getting it furled if the wind isn't over 15. Get a weather forecast before you leave. Keep your head on a swivel while you're out. If you see weather popping up around you, reef and furl before it has a chance to get to you. If you've done all of that, and you still get caught, anchoring might be an option to keep you nosed up while you go forward and try to get it furled. Some members have an anchor rigged at the stern, but tied at the bow, such that it can be deployed from the cockpit. Will your hardware withstand anchoring in those conditions?

Also, where you are in the body of water you're sailing in will impact your available options. Are you near a lee shore? What is the depth and what is the bottom like? Is anchoring possible? Is pulling up your dagger and rudders and taking a beaching the safest choice? Is motoring into the wind and letting it flap an option? Will you run into anything motoring slowly upwind?

My advice is, take crew out in some sporty conditions and find out what the max wind speed is that you can reliably furl. Then, when you're alone, furl below that wind speed.

Good luck and be safe!

[Jimmyt]

DaveC,

If a captain has the setup you show, fine, but it is not necessary. For seventeen years now, my setup is to have the furler line leave the drum and simply go around the forward, port stanchion post before going straight to the cockpit (dealer set this up). It has served me well with my 150 Genny. No additional holes in the deck.

Please post a picture of your furling line as it leads into the drum, Ray. The Furler manufacturers, and most sailors experience, indicate that the line should be led perpendicular to the drum at the midpoint of the drum. If yours works, that's great. But, stating that a fairlead or turning block is not required for any other boats, might not be the best advice.

[NiceAft]

Jimmy,

The original poster has an like you and I. The advise works well with .

The line on my is perpendicular to the drum as it goes around the stanchion (can't show this now, is on the trailer).

In previous threads on this topic, it has been confirmed that this system works well *. As I posted, this was the way my dealer set it all up. Over the last seventeen years, I have replaced my Genny twice, the setup stayed the same.

As always Jimmy, I respect your opinion and experience. What I said remains; there is another way.



* The big concern was wear on the stanchion. None to be seen.

[Be Free]

IAgreed that it can be a big safety concern. Hypothetically what is the proper course of action in the event of bad winds and a jammed furler line? If it were me, I'd release all lines to the sail. It might make a noise and be distracting but I'd imagine it wouldn't be able to catch much wind for too long.

You may be surprised to see how much force a sail can put on the bow even if the sheets have been released. If the sail ends up in the water it can add a whole new set of problems. Depending on how long your sheets are it is possible that one of them could get tangled in the prop if you were to start the engine without securing them.

Keep in mind that we have an advantage that a lot of other boats don't have. Pop up through the forward hatch and you are in a relatively safe position to work on some foresail problems without having to go out on deck. I've braced myself in the opening and taken down my jib in very rough conditions without any real concerns about my safety.

[DaveC426913]

If a captain has the setup you show, fine, but it is not necessary. For seventeen years now, my setup is to have the furler line leave the drum and simply go around the forward, port stanchion post before going straight to the cockpit (dealer set this up). It has served me well with my 150 Genny. No additional holes in the deck.

Sure. If it works it works.
But something's not working for the OP. Trying to optimize his setup.

[Jimmyt]

Jimmy,

The original poster has an like you and I. The advise works well with .

Love you, Ray. Not trying to pick a fight. But, not all M's came with identical Furlers. Previous mods to forestay arrangement are a possibility. I'm fairly certain each dealer was putting their own spin on rigging/setup. Your furling line was led around a stanchion, mine through a deck mounted turning block, and Dave's through a fairlead; for example.

But, your boat; your rules.

[NiceAft]

The system will work with different furlers. The furling line exits on a perpendicular and goes around the the first stanchion of the pulpit at a level even with the furler.. It works

I'm not saying this or nothing, but if one wishes to avoid more holes in the deck, this is an option. You just said it less verbose than I when you said: ,

But, your boat; your rules.