Custom gas tank on rear deck

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Sheppie62
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Custom gas tank on rear deck

Post by Sheppie62 »

    :idea: Build a custom gas tank/ with walkable top (deck). I have already moved my engine back with a setback plate and hydraulic steering, steering lines can now go thru near shift cables. I have figured a way to hook up sailing rudders/ motor with the tie rod backwards. This opens up the space where there normally is the step down and hole where motor tilts into (forgot what it’s called). My goal was to put a flat deck across entire back area level with the cockpit area. I have the Spector 6 gallon tanks I purchased recently, but I’m not real happy with the handle sticking out and the pressure thing that makes them swell up, but liked that they are portable for fueling up. I was thinking I was going to make 2 aluminum tanks to fit precisely into the compartments. Now I’m thinking I could put a custom shaped gas tank In the area the deck was going, using the motor tilt hole as well. And use the Spector 6 gallon tanks 1 per side, towards back that the seat mostly covers, so feet won’t be hitting the tank handles. That would open up the front of the gas tank area for much needed storage up top. I estimated tank size to be 28”x28”x6” or could be a slight step up with 8” height. Floor drainage would need to be addressed past tank.Tank Volume would be about 20 gallons if it was 6” tall and 27 gallons if it were 8” tall.
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    Last edited by Sheppie62 on Sun Oct 03, 2021 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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    NiceAft
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    Re: Another Crazy Idea

    Post by NiceAft »

    Simply put, why, did you do this? I didn’t quite understand your reasoning to do this mod. At first I thought it was to instal hydraulic stearing, but now I’m not certain.
    Ray ~~_/)~~
    Sheppie62
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by Sheppie62 »

    Thanks for response Ray. I may have not been clear, sorry. I get caught up in ideas sometimes. Goal: (1) hold more gas for extended range. (2) create a more usable/ walkable rear deck. (3) create more above deck storage by not using forward half of original gas tank area. I have already moved engine back (6’ setback) because (1) needed space for new larger 75hp mercury motor tilting forward. (2) increase engine efficiency. I also installed hydraulic steering because (1) it makes steering larger motor easier. (2) hydraulic steering locks so when motor is tilted while sailing it doesn’t try to flop to the side. (3) it locks in last position so I can let go of steering wheel briefly to do other things. (4) hydraulic steering allows installation of autopilot that has a pump that can be mounted below deck (no extra stuff on steering wheel) the steering wheel doesn’t even turn when auto pilot is steering (safer for kids). I flipped sailing rudders tie rod backwards to get tie rod closer to motor to allow use of a custom (engine steering to sailing rudders) linkage that will have perfect engine/ sailing rudders alignment thru out steering range and engine lifted up and down (with 5” lift jack). I hope this clears things up.
    OverEasy
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by OverEasy »

    Hi Sheppie62!

    It’s an interesting idea!
    Fuel tank and level aft deck all in one! :o :)

    Hadn’t thought of that one
    As you know we went with the two 12 gallon Moeller tanks on each side of our Mac26X with hatches in the benches. That gives us 24 gallons of fuel aboard.
    We have been considering adding an auxiliary set of clamp on tanks after we get our aft arch fabricated which would provide an additional 6 to 10 gallons (depending on which tanks we get).
    An aft footwell custom tank hadn’t occurred to us.

    Looking at our aft footwell I can see there are som conflict spaces around the steering linkages and engine control cables as well as the fuel ine to the engine which could be addressed by design.

    It’s something to think about but it is an original idea Sheppie62!
    I like it!

    Note: We have about a full 5 inches above each of our 12 gallon tanks that we are currently not utilizing. We’ve been considering making some “cubby boxes” for ropes and/or tools/parts/gear that would make use of this space and accessed from the hatches.

    Best Regards,
    Over Easy 😎😎🐩🐈
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    NiceAft
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by NiceAft »

    Thanks Sheppie62,

    Much better 8) :D
    Ray ~~_/)~~
    Sheppie62
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by Sheppie62 »

    I’m not sure if being out in the sun/ heat would be an issue for an aluminum tank, suppose could cover with some thin starboard material. Other issue is weight all the way in the back, however it would be lower than original tanks. There was a guy who put a gas tank in the very front of the boat in Vee Berth area, liked getting more weight up front, but kinda scared of gas under the bed. Maybe a fresh water tank up there would make more sense, could use as a balancing tool while carrying a lot of fuel (that’s when you would need it full anyways) with any luck could use water about same amount as fuel to keep boat balanced.
    OverEasy
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by OverEasy »

    Hi Sheppie62!

    Our current trip up here on Lake Champlain had us re-evaluating our weights and balances (a couple times :o :P :wink: :| :) ). Port to Starboard & Fwd to Aft and back again 🙄.

    We travel on the road with our tanks empty.
    24 gallons at 6.3 lbs/gallon is roughly 151 lbs. which is the weight of a small person standing in the aft cockpit and aft of the axles.

    An additional 20 gallon tank in the aft footwell at 120 lbs plus tank weight is something to consider when trailering (if done with a full tank). Add in the two 6 gallon tanks and the fuel weight for your arrangement would be and an additional 75 lbs or about 230 lbs in the aft cockpit.

    Not that I’m against the extra fuel capacity, quite the opposite. I’m just thinking about potential towed trailer weight and distribution while on the road.

    We paired back on what we brought with us in the boat and put more non-essentials in our van for towing purposes.

    We also found that several containers on the boat and in the van could have been left home for all intents and purposes for the carried weight sake aspect.

    The water tank in the bow is interesting but I think we’d probably place it actually in the Vee Berth rather than under it as we don’t want to compromise the flotation stuffed under there.

    We’ve found 5 gallons of water tends to go a long way. At 8.3 lbs/gallon a 5 gallon tank’s water content weighs about 41-1/2 lbs.

    We try and maintain our towed weight under 3400 lbs and our towed tongue weight at 10-15% if towed weight.

    Just some things to think about….🤔

    Best Regards, Over Easy 😎😎🐩🐈
    Sheppie62
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by Sheppie62 »

    Thanks Overeasy! Yes, I’m very concerned about trailer tongue weight as I have also added a new heavier motor 359lbs, with a 10” setback. I recently added tandem axles to the original trailer as well, and replaced all the crossmembers (tongue soon). When placing axles I built an “L” bracket that I welded the spring hangers to, I did this primarily because I don’t trust my upside down welds, secondly to allow sliding of the axles backwards if needed (I have 3 grade 8 bolts holding it on for a short towing/ balance test), I will weld once I get balance correct. Most people say to place the tandem wheels centered on where the original wheels were, equal front and back. That wasn’t possible as the trailer bends toward tongue. So the center of the tandem axles are 9” backwards from where the center of the single wheel was. Your right a bow water tank would be a great tool to get trailer balanced as well! I currently have an 18 gallon water bladder tank under original cooler area which I think is too small.
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    OverEasy
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by OverEasy »

    Hi Sheppie62!

    Nice work on the trailer!
    From a tongue load aspect moving the center line between the axles aft is a better direction than fwd.

    Have you ever done a tongue weight check?
    I do ours with a heavy weight bathroom scale (for convenience) but it can also be easily done with a regular bathroom scale and bit of lumber.

    Accurate axle loading is a little bit more involved.
    A first pass is a simple visual dimensional check of the leaf spring midpoint deflections (assuming new springs for both axles). A properly loaded axle set should generally have the same midpoint deflection for all 4 leaf spring sets. It should raise a flag if one axle’s leaf springs are more compressed than the other axle set (it means that the more compressed axle is doing more load carrying than the other). I wouldn’t expect them to be exactly equal but reasonably close to each other.

    Unequally loaded axles have the potential to transmit more load to the relevant tire set leading to unequal tire loads, bearing loads and tire wear.

    It’s a little more complicated if the leaf spring sets are of different vintages.

    Note: We check ours with the boat empty and after loading before each long distance trip. Given the cost of and lack of availability of trailer tires we want to maximize our use and potential mileage. Checking them alerts us to potential adverse loading issues before we get on the road.

    We also just had the bearings and hubs professionally cleaned out, degreased, inspected and repacked pre-emptively while we are up here on Lake Champlain and Over Easy was afloat. It wasn’t cheap but given my back issues it was money well spent to have it done before a problem arose.

    We have personally traveled in excess of 3000 miles so far with Over Easy. We didn’t know for certain what kind of mileage or specific maintenance had been done by the POs for the axle bearings. We replaced all the trailer tires upon purchase as there were intra-tread and sidewall cracks evident on the tires. The date codes were also indicating that they were past their use dates. That is no reflection on the POs in any way, it is just a fact of life. Tires simply age out.

    Best Regards,
    Over Easy 😎😎🐩🐈
    Sheppie62
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    2 new axle and springs

    Post by Sheppie62 »

    $280 each axle with hubs and springs. Redneck trailer supply. I had to move/ add spring perches.I am using slip on disc brakes/ new disc hitch tongue thingy.
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    Tomfoolery
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    Re: 2 new axle and springs

    Post by Tomfoolery »

    Sheppie62 wrote: Wed Oct 06, 2021 9:14 am $280 each axle with hubs and springs. Redneck trailer supply. I had to move/ add spring perches.I am using slip on disc brakes/ new disc hitch tongue thingy.
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    Nice. Be sure to either add a 3-way reversing solenoid valve, one that recirculates back to the reservoir (better than the 2-way blocking valve type), assuming you have a reverse power pin in your tow vehicle socket (7-blade round 'RV' style), or that you can put a pin in the coupler to prevent brake actuation. Unlike free-backing drum brakes, you can't even back an empty trailer up a very shallow grade without it. I know - I do it with my lawn tractor, up my driveway, and I have to stick a pin in the coupler just to get the trailer into my garage for service. :|
    Tom
    Be seeing you . . .
    Sheppie62
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    Reverse lockout

    Post by Sheppie62 »

    Thanks Tom for reminding me about the reverse lockout, I’ll have to do a little research figure out what’s best. I’m assuming the reverse light is what triggers it?
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    Tomfoolery
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    Re: Reverse lockout

    Post by Tomfoolery »

    Sheppie62 wrote: Wed Oct 06, 2021 10:33 am Thanks Tom for reminding me about the reverse lockout, I’ll have to do a little research figure out what’s best. I’m assuming the reverse light is what triggers it?
    Yes, and in fact I used a 5-conductor cable to the rear of the trailer for the auxiliary light board I stick on the OB leg, which also has a white backup light on it. :wink:

    There are two types of solenoid valve lockouts. One is a simple 2-way valve that closes when energized to block the flow of hydraulic fluid from the couple master cylinder to the brake disk calipers. It works well as long as the master cylinder isn't compressed when you put it into reverse, like when stopping facing down a hill. It'll trap pressure in the lines, so the brakes will be activated.

    The other type, a 3-way valve, opens a third port with a short hose back to tank. When the master cylinder compresses, the fluid simply gets pumped back to the reservoir, with the port to the calipers also in that loop, so no pressure can build.

    Oh, and we're talking this kind of master cylinder . . .

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    . . . not this kind. :wink:

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    (For those of us old enough to remember.)
    Tom
    Be seeing you . . .
    Sheppie62
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by Sheppie62 »

    Image

    Image this is one I bought
    OverEasy
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    Re: Custom gas tank on rear deck

    Post by OverEasy »

    :D :D Ah LOVED Felix! :D :D
    Best Saturday mornings of life where those days!
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