Add an axle without equalizer?

[svscott]

Can i cut off the axle from my 26D trailer and weld it on behind the stock axle on my 26X?

I've got an unused 26D trailer sitting in the backyard and don't have a plan to use it under the boat since I upgraded to a 26M trailer (thanks Doug/Galactica!).
I upgraded the stock 26X trailer tires from 14" to 15's from the "new" D trailer and I've been hauling my 26X on longer trips this summer. I've found that some combination of the larger tires and the tired leaf springs on the single axle are causing the tires to rub on the hull and after a couple trips, it has damaged the gelcoat on both sides (easy repair that will be hidden under the bottom paint, but still a bummer). I like the larger tires so I'll maybe add a pressure treated 1x4 spacer to the bunks for extra clearance between the sidewall and the boat.

I don't want to cut too many corners, but I'm also a frugal Macgregor owner with 2 boats to maintain so I really don't want to spend more on a new trailer than I did for the whole boat! I was towing the boat home 2.5 hours home from a camping trip yesterday and the trailer began wagging behind the Suburban at 72 mph as I passed a slow moving semi truck. Anyone that's had a swaying trailer at highway speed knows how scary this can be!

I know for sure I want a 2nd axle for the redundancy of 4 tires, and to help prevent this swaying again so I got to thinking that I may be able to harvest my old 26D axle and just weld it onto the 26X trailer being the existing axle quick and easy. I have not done any measuring or research yet but figured I'd throw it this idea and what if anyone has input. I understand this would add to the tongue weight but there is a fair amount I could to to transfer weight into the aft berth to offset some of this. What other complications are there?

I've seen Tractor Supply sells axles and leaf springs at maybe $500 pet axle (?) But I'm not sure about their quality or how they fit to the stock trailer.

[Tomfoolery]

Since you'd have to weld on two spring hangers anyway, why not cut off the rear hanger of the existing springs and weld on a new one just behind it for an equalizer? Other than the cost of the equalizers, it won't add any more cost since you'll still need shackles for both, and bolts, and new hangers.

And since you'll end up with much more suspension capacity than you actually need, you can soften it up by removing a leaf or two from each spring pack, depending on the existing compliment. Two independent leaf spring axles will be very stiff, and that can be mitigated by using an equalizer (puts them in series, which halves the effective spring rate, in a simplified model), and since you'll have 7000 lb or more of spring capacity, you can soften it further by modifying them.

Using two axles with full spring capacity and no equalizer will be like riding in an empty dump truck. And they have equalized rear suspension, at least with tandem axles. Torsion suspension systems have progressive spring rates, and ride softer to start with, so there's not really a one to one comparison there.

I posted a thread some time back with pictures, including softening the springs. Another member did something similar recently, too, if memory serves.